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Old 08-28-2011, 08:36 AM   #15
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Normandy Park , Washington
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Are you suggesting that with one of the testers I touch it to one side of each fuse holder to see if it has power and that will identify which fuse is bad?



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Old 08-28-2011, 09:05 AM   #16
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Can you hear the Univolt? They are noisy and, if they are working, you can hear them buzzing. Looks like you are going to be crawling around looking at fuses and circuits in the front of the Minuet. Is the Univolt plugged in? If the lights work (the 12 V lights) then the Univolt is working. It sounds like mistakes in the wiring for the stereo where you have a short or wires crossed that should not be crossed. Remove the fuse that goes to the stereo and try the lights. Then kill the lights and try the stereo. Those two items should not affect each other. Start at the fuse block to see what fuse powers which circuit. Fuses are often in a long block near the water pump. There may be a cover on the block. If the jacks are powered, I'd be looking at the wiring done for them.

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Old 08-28-2011, 10:03 AM   #17
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These things.. ground with the alligator clip and stick the wire with the pointy end of the screwdriver thingy and if there is current the light comes on.
Costs 3-4 dollars. It's awesome.
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Old 08-28-2011, 10:43 AM   #18
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For the 120 volt testing, I just use a no contact voltage tester. I get them at the home centers for about $10.
Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:04 AM   #19
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Electrical testing and troubleshooting

The problem you have requires some patience and systematic searching for the problem. I would get both the circuit tester described above, and an inexpensive multimeter (about $15 at Radio Shack). The multimeter can be used to measure a variety of voltages, both AC, such as shore power, and DC, such as your battery (DC voltage gives you a reading on the charge state of the battery, plus resistance, good for checking fuses and circuits for good connections.

In your case, I would start at the source for the power, and work 'downstream' to the individual circuits and components on those circuits. don't forget, your furnace changed or was worked on (blower, 12 volt). For example, do I have 120 volt at the plug for the trailer? Then, do I have 120 volts at the trailer receptacles? If not check for tripped or bad circuit breakers... Is the Univolt o.k.? You can check for a bad circuit by, in the extreme, removing all fuses, testing them, and adding them back one at a time.

You can do an Internet search on testing fuses,and circuits, and troubleshooting that should help.

Sorry to be so long winded, it's a little hard to gauge from text messages what your level of expertise is.
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:50 AM   #20
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Ok, I went and bought the 12v tester and a couple new 50 amp main fuses.

I could see I had power into the first 50 amp fuse but nothing after that. The odd thing is that it is the one that was blown and I replaced it with one that was in the trailer and was intact. The downstream 50 amp was pitted and I thought for sure that was the issue. When I replaced the first 50 amp with a nice new gold colored fuse everything lit up.....thanks to all for the advice.

Not sure I want to press my luck by plugging in and seeing if that trips everything up again. I never actually use plug in power as we as always camp at the sites without it and we don't actually need it.

Thanks again all, I appreciate the help.


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