Some more thoughts: The hitch ball height of the TV should be close to 19", unloaded. When the hitch is adjusted properly, TV and trailer should both be as close to level as possible. Weigh the trailer. Determine the wheel weight, hitch weight, and total weight. I'm betting the hitch weight is going to be around 300 lbs which is much too light. Your trailer has the battery mounted just behind the wheels on the roadside. Move it up front under the couch. In fact, add a couple more batteries for extended boondocking. Use either AGM or Gellcell batteries to solve the gassing problem. Use #8 THHN stranded copper wire to connect the batteries to the 12V distribution box. Experiment with smaller tire size on the front axel. Check hitch weight again with full propane tanks, full fresh water tank, and empty holding tanks. Hitch weight should be at least 10% of the total trailer weight, preferable a little more. If you're in the ballpark, consider remounting the rear axel about an inch lower than the front axel. This will require a qualified trailer mechanic (think horse trailer, utility trailer types). The advantage is that you can go back to the same size tires on both axels. The axel capacities on your trailer should be 2600 lbs ea, so having the rear axel carry a little more weight isn't going to matter since your trailer probably won't weigh much more than 3800 lb loaded. Gary and Janet's trailer mention above is a 24' model which has the axels mounted farther back than yours and does not have the same towing characteristics. Be prepared to take your time on your trip home from Reno. You have not mentioned what you're using for a TV which will make a lot of difference. Darol
I read in your window repair post that you're towing with a Range Rover. Have you already had it wired for the trailer? If not, I suggest you check into that BEFORE you head off to get the trailer. Rover "electrics" are very English and hard to match up with the standard RV plugs used this side of the pond. Also, it's a very short wheel-based rig which will contribute to poor towing characteristics of the trailer. Please be careful! Darol
Here's my info re: towing w/'99 Range Rover 4.6...
Darol, thanks for the warning.
Here's a link to info on the 4.6 which indicates that once you get it set up it tows fine, especially if you have the stock auto-height adjusting suspension. My RR was bought used and had already been through a spring conversion since most people opt for this when the air suspension fails (eventually, usually near 80-100k miles). So I'm riding on standard springs rather than air suspension, but according to this article that should still be fine, assuming the trailer/hitch setup and weight are appropriate.
Here's that link, and yes I'll be careful regardless!
Hey there... I'd love a pic of your Range Rover and Argy when you get it... sounds like a nice looking combo. Just FYI, your link didn't mention weight transfer hitches... I think you mentioned it, but do use one to move some of the hitch weight to the front wheels of your Rover.
I didn't read about your propane tank decision, but getting 30# tanks vs. the 20# (in either steel or aluminum) would help put your weight forward. You can drill or punch out the little press pin that holds the propane tank rod in place to make the rod longer. Most of us that have gone to this trouble just buy some 1/2" threaded rod from a big box store (Home Depot or the like) and double nut the rod above and below the rod holder to make a more sturdy propane holding system.
Search propane tank rod or simular to find some pics of the solution.
Marc
Followup re: newbie w/22' rear, Range Rover 4.6 tow rig...
After two months in storage we've now received the '75 22' rear Argosy. We've towed it to our excellent restoration person in Nevada City (CA) where she will be renovated over time. Great midsize trailer, IMO.
The tow issues were totally mitigated w/a Reese equalizer hitch. This eliminated most of the sway and our trailer was running light and empty. Prior to the Reese hitch, she'd sway way too quickly...not a fun ride.
Tested the setup on a tough pull from Reno NV to Nevada City CA. That's over I-80 Donner Summit (near Tahoe) that goes to 7200 feet. The Rover worked hard but did the work, and the trailer/tow rig combo towed very well given the VERY demanding road, both in terms of elevation gain but also very (very!) poor road surface in the slow lane. If the roads had been smooth (hello federal government, anyone home? We need I-80 funds!), the pull would have been a breeze.
The great thing about the Rover is it's gearing. Drive it in 3rd for a pull and you'll never hit the breaks on the way down. Amazing engineering on the tranny, and though costly to own (I buy mine used) they are great highway and tow vehicles that go through all conditions. I'd recommend the setup with the only caveat being overall pull power up steep grades...
All for now, will report in as we fix the window and get her cleaned up and gussied for some camping in the Sierra this summer. Good stuff.
__________________
1975 22' Argosy Rear Door
Towed By: 1999 Range Rover 4.6HSE (fulltime 4x4)
REALLY happy to hear that all went well with the tow to the resto shop.... More than a few were worried about you and that TT on that tow, given the issues with the tow to you, the TV questions and the like....
So glad that all is well!
DO keep us all updated on changes in status, and WHERE are the PICS????????
Surely you HAVE them!? - saving for family and friends??? Well, were all family here......!!!!!!!!!! Post away.... photo's are worth a 1000 words...!!!!
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