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Old 07-20-2013, 04:05 PM   #71
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Wait, you get zero flow through faucets when you apply water pressure? Not even bubbly low-pressure stuff? And you say water leaks out the belly pan at the rear when you hook up "city water"?

Does it also leak in the same place when you run the pump to pull water from the freshwater tank?

Have you traced all the pipes to look for "low-point drain" valves? I'm guessing you don't have them, I don't in either Argosy, but someone might have added them after they had a freeze.

The original setup has a pressure-relief valve just inboard of the pressure regulator, if that's stuck open it would just dump city-water on the ground. I don't know what it would do with pump water, it would depend on how it's set up and where the checkvalve is located.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:05 PM   #72
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Not to mention we are fighting rain every step of the way......lol
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:07 PM   #73
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Yes zero flow w/ pump and city hook up......we do have valves on curb of galley ..... Think they are stuck?
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:15 PM   #74
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These are valves underneath by galley curbside....

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This is under fridge

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And this under water heater street side

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Old 07-20-2013, 04:17 PM   #75
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Last pic is curbside under sink galley
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:57 PM   #76
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Those are propane shutoff valves, there should be one for each gas appliance (range, furnace, water heater, refrigerator.)

See if you can get to a place where you can see the internal pressure regulator and pressure blow-off valves in the bathroom. If they're where they were originally installed, they should be at the streetside corner. In my 24' trailer, they're somewhat hidden, on the street side of the bathroom cabinet and aft of the closet. They may be in a similar location in your 26' trailer.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:55 PM   #77
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Good to know DKB ..... We have quit for the evening.....
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:56 PM   #78
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But question is why don't we still have running water anywhere..... We must just be plain ignorant is all I can say......
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:01 PM   #79
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You have closed the two red top valves? They are drain valves for hot and cold water lines. I take it the water pump is actually pumping water, not air locked. Take the PEX pipe loose that goes to the pump and see if there is water coming from the pump. The motor might run and the pump not work. Or take the garden hose connector loose at the pump and check there. What's a little water on the floor? The flood at the rear does sound like the pressure relief valve is wide open. If the pump actually works, start replacing the plumbing going front to back. Start at the pump and work back. You will find the problem. Some PEX fittings will fit onto copper which will let you keep copper that doesn't leak. Find the check valve that is near the hose connection/pressure relief/pressure regulator area and replace it or take that assembly apart and put a valve there to cut off the outside supply lines. These are usually fittings that you can unscrew to break the line so the pressure relief, pressure regulator, etc can be replaced without soldering. If all else fails, cut the line that leads in from the outside and block the line off until all you have is the water pump to supply water. You are going to replace the line anyhow so this is no big deal. You need to simplify this problem: one source for water - the pump; replace lines until you find the problem area.
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:47 PM   #80
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I had to remove everything from the city hose inlet to the regulator, including the back-flow preventer, the pop off valve, and the regulator. There was a sizable debris clog at the back flow preventer. No water at all got past that clog. That doesn't really explain why you don't get 12 volt pump water. Maybe your trailer is like mine in that almost nothing worked when we got it. I spent a lot of time fixing stuff that I eventually ripped out and replaced. When I first got the trailer I was in denial of the size and scope of the project I had just bought. I eventually met up with reality and replaced almost everything.
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