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Old 07-09-2013, 10:19 AM   #29
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Once again thank you for the excellent advice and we think we know now that we should probably start w/ making travel on road safely the first priority . We will have to save up for the axels, brakes, tires etc. as this part is not in our budget at this time ......however in the meantime we are gonna follow all the advice to checking the flooring and plumbing more thoroughly.......thankful to all of you and just think we didn't even know what a belly pan or univolt was 3 days ago..... Lol......so here's to the newbie w/ more knowledge .....will continue the progress w / I'm sure more questions ... Gonna have to start a new thread besides "newbie of Argosy ignorance".....lol
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:29 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Argonaut20 View Post
First the PEX: Buy a PVC/drip system pipe cutter to cut the ends square. I have found the best assortment of fittings at Lowes, but you are looking for slip on fittings with names like Shark Bite. Putting PEX together with the rings and associated pliers is more of a pain.
Second: Figure out what works now and what needs immediate attention. I would do tires as a given need as the tires are likely old and likely to fail from age. Close the two red top valves and put water into the system using the outside connection and a garden hose. Look for leaks by following the piping from one end to the other. See if the faucets and toilet valve work. Hopefully you won't have leaks in the lines themselves, but don't count on it. There is a check valve in the pump that should keep water from going in to the water tank.

Another way to check for leaks is to put water into the water tank and turn on the water pump. open the faucets until you get water to them and then shut all the faucets and valves. keep the pump turned on. If there are leaks, the pump will cycle on and off or just stay running if the leak is bad enough. You can identify what needs fixing NOW in the plumbing this way.

If the UNIVOLT works, you can live with the buzzing until you get the time and money to replace it. If the UNIVOLT doesn't work (12V lights don't work when you are plugged in and the battery is disconnected) then that is an immediate need. Be sure to have a battery hooked up when you are plugged in for extended periods and check the battery water frequently.

The furnace should be replaced if you think you will be needing it.

If the water heater survives the plumbing tests, try to light it. If it lights and the control fires the main burner, it may be workable. Replacing one is not a huge job.

Put water in the black tank (through the toilet) and see if you have leakage into the drains. If you do, you can rebuild or replace the dump valve(s). Pull the handle after checking for leaks and see if the dump valve really dumps.
The buzzing univolt is prpbablyn frying his battery(s) so replacement is a higher priority, since it is relatively cheap.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:35 AM   #31
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Axles, brakes and bearings should be all one transaction, by the way. The easiest (and probably cheapest) way is to buy the axles fully set up, with new brakes, bearings and drums installed by the manufacturer.

We used our '75 Argosy for a little over a year on the original axles without triggering the apocalypse, and that really let me see how much difference the new axles made when installed. Our new axles were manufactured by Rockwell American and purchased through Redneck Trailer Supply, with 10" electric brakes and axle spindles that have a grease zerk built in. They cost $350.44 each plus tax and delivery.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:59 AM   #32
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Thanks DKB.......have gave new meaning to the budget thought price range would be double or more.....
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:08 PM   #33
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Thanks DKB.......have gave new meaning to the budget thought price range would be double or more.....
Depending on where and what you order, it can cost double or more.

I did pay someone to attach the shock mounts to the arms to get a setup just like the original. There's some disagreement on whether or not the shocks are actually necessary with rubber torsion axles, but that's how Airstream/Argosy built them. Some of the more-expensive axle options come with the shock mounts installed, I believe, but some still require welding if you want shocks.
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:13 PM   #34
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We live on middle Ga.....
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:05 PM   #35
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Alright upon further inspecting .....looks as though carpet was replaced ...... one can hope that the flooring was attended to as well .....checking w/ PO bout that.....but know we still need to still inspect more.......looks like some of the piping has been replaced w/ this green hose ( looks like a garden hose to me...lol) & since copper was the original one can also presume the plumbing has been redone w/ pvc......lastly for now .....we do know as far as the inside goes we know we don't have leaks we did camp in it w/ o water 2 yrs ago.....and goodness knows our area has had over 30 days and nights straight rain .......attaching pics of under sink the fridge and white tube from fridge and that same tube goes to the water pump......thoughts anyone ????.....not feeling as overwhelmed .....hell yes we can do this.....




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Old 07-09-2013, 03:36 PM   #36
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What you have there, plumbing-wise, is what one might call the "random assortment." It's a very common situation among trailers the age of ours.

The white pipe looks like it may be PEX, but I see that it joins into some existing copper, and then there's that garden hose. While I grew up on a farm and drank from the hose more than a few times, drinking water from hose that's not identified as being for drinking water isn't the best idea. That green stuff needs to be replaced, even if you're not going to go through and swap in PEX for the old copper.

The best thing about my '76 project trailer is the fact that the PO is a master plumber, he did a lovely installation of red and blue PEX, with stainless-clad flex hoses for attaching to faucets and such. Now I just have to do everything else as well as he did the PEX.
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:12 PM   #37
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LOL ......just a garden hose running to the kitchen sink ......just like asking mom, "I'm thirsty .....then get the hose".....lol.. ...Pex is a must.....
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:16 PM   #38
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Just wanted everyone to know that been kinda a busy and have had rain but hopefully get more done this weekend !!!!!
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Old 07-12-2013, 04:14 PM   #39
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Help help help........turn hose on and water leaking out of belly pan .....yikes

1. Hole in copper
2.water damage to floor and coming out through belly pan
3. The area that is gonna need replacing
4. This a converter .....have no idea what that is for
5. Where water coming from belly pan

Now what do to w/ all this.....know PEX for the copper

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Old 07-12-2013, 04:15 PM   #40
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Ok so the pics got out of order ......
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:40 PM   #41
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Old Airstream copper pipes are always a good candidate for PEX. I know you'd hoped to be somewhat selective about your PEX changeover, but once you make the investment in tools and such, it's just a few more feet of pipe. (My sly comment assumes you're going with crimp-on, I think the incremental cost of Shark-Bite fittings is probably more significant.)

That big metal paperweight is the Univolt, old-school single-stage battery boiler...er... charger.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:52 PM   #42
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Once again thanks DKB ... And shark bite is a definite as well ....
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