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Old 07-08-2013, 10:26 AM   #15
cwf
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Can someone help find the link to a post listing the components needed to run PEX?
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:34 AM   #16
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1976 Argosy 26
Perry , Georgia
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Thank You ...... Argonaut20.......also would like yo thank everyone else for the advice and after diving into serious reading until 3:30 am ......We have real concern considering we didn't have a clue on what we bought. Now know your wondering why someone makes a purchase w/o having the knowledge , we will just chalk it up to ignorance and helping a friend whose dad's health was failing and has passed now. ( didn't know well) ,so with that being said just gonna check the travel safety and go from there cuz as you all know just the get road ready can be expensive
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:53 AM   #17
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1976 Argosy 28
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To add a couple of notes to what Overlander64 provided: It's apparent from the pictures that you do have the original type Univolt, visible in photos 7-10. You have a newer Shurflo pump which also shows up in the pictures.

The toilet looks pretty rough. There's only 1 toilet that I know of that'll fit there without modifying the plastic wall behind the toilet, and that one will overhang the edge of the platform slightly so it "looks funny" but should work fine. It's an "Aqua Magic V low-profile" but if you want to cut out a little plastic you can use one of the low-profile "china bowl" Dometic 210 low-profile units, I think.

If you're going to travel far and plan to keep the trailer a long while, there are 2 things to consider. One is protection for the "panoramic" wrap-around windows in the front, because those are expensive suckers. I and some other Argosy owners use canvas covers with a thick layer of high-density foam that come off easily for camping, many people use the Airstream rock guards that remain attached all the time. The ones for "narrowbody" Airstreams fit perfectly.

The other item to look at is the condition of the axles. The rubber torsion rods in these axles last 25 years or so in active use, less if the trailer sits for long periods. Here's an article on the Dura Torque axles, telling how they're made and how to test their condition.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jshughes View Post
Thank You ...... Argonaut20.......also would like yo thank everyone else for the advice and after diving into serious reading until 3:30 am ......We have real concern considering we didn't have a clue on what we bought. Now know your wondering why someone makes a purchase w/o having the knowledge , we will just chalk it up to ignorance and helping a friend whose dad's health was failing and has passed now. ( didn't know well) ,so with that being said just gonna check the travel safety and go from there cuz as you all know just the get road ready can be expensive
What you have is a real rare find in the vintage Airstream/Argosy world. Intact, almost all original equipment inside and out, no major exterior/interior damage and although there appears to be some floor water damage it looks from the pictures to be repairable. This is what people search for when they want to find a vintage Airstream/Argosy to restore and refurbish. There's just not that many in this age range and condition available anymore. We have see people pull them out fields and barns with nothing much more than the shell left intact and they are thrilled to find that. So give it some careful thought before you make any major changes and don't let anyone come along and try and convince you that this is just a piece of junk and let me haul it off for you.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:39 PM   #19
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my husband and I also just acquired a 73' Argosy 26 to help a friends ailing father. hope you find enjoyment in your Argosy and don't forget to share pictures! good luck!
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:47 PM   #20
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Alright Argosy Advisors......

1. Underside taken from front looking towards back
2.all the wheels look like this? No need of all four I don't think ....lol
3. Rearside looking towards front
4. Back bathroom area ( looks bent up) IDK that's why we here......

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Old 07-08-2013, 05:21 PM   #21
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Will this trailer be a tow and go, or will it mostly sit in one place?

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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:26 PM   #22
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Was supposed to be for family trips .....we live in middle ga ...... Travel to FL and Carolina's
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jshughes View Post
Thank You ...... Argonaut20.......also would like yo thank everyone else for the advice and after diving into serious reading until 3:30 am ......We have real concern considering we didn't have a clue on what we bought. Now know your wondering why someone makes a purchase w/o having the knowledge , we will just chalk it up to ignorance and helping a friend whose dad's health was failing and has passed now. ( didn't know well) ,so with that being said just gonna check the travel safety and go from there cuz as you all know just the get road ready can be expensive

I too bought my rig on impulse, and in fact had I looked closer I probably would have passed. It was supposed to be ready
to roll but required that someone 1) finish plumbing, 2) replace heater, going with cat. 3)fix or replace water heater, I'm replacing@440usd 4)replace sun damaged curtain slides 5)replace univolt w intellipower 45amp 6) Andersen hitch 7)stab jacks
And so on.
However we're lucky w good solid floor, no rot or water damage and it is new enough to have a gray tank. I now know it was worth every penny.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:15 PM   #24
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Thanks Savage68
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:51 PM   #25
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Thanks Savage68
We do have some fun in store removing linoleum glue which is on top of the plywood floor, arghhhhhh.
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Old 07-08-2013, 07:57 PM   #26
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A tow and go trailer needs really good running gear and fresh tires.

The tiles come up with an electric heat gun. My floor had adhesive residue after the tiles were removed but the Kilz Original stuck fine and eliminated any sticky. My new floor floats.

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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:08 AM   #27
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My advice...
as soon as it is safe to roll and sleep and not leak (too much).... USE IT as much as possible in the first season.

you can accomplish two things. you are truly in love with it, and you start to see how things work great, and how to improve things. like wally byam said "lets not make changes, only improvements".

spacing things out makes the money pit easier to swallow. we purchased ours in the first year, then did brakes and major leaks. second year we traveled and camped for about a month and a half (in a 12 week summer season). this is the year that the interior gets some upgrades, and that's the best part. I know what works where, and that I don't need a million hooks and hangers all over to clutter the space like the previous owner had needed. its an added degree of difficulty with young kids and spontenaity, and fun,(and time out corners in a round trailer??).

I shudder to think that we spent a year camping without any front window protection, and everyone will highly recommend it. our trailer had little grommet recepticles around the front window, so I made a cover with the material from semi fronts. it also keeps the sun out and the kids sleeping longer. there are some pics somewhere on here of our upgrades and modifications.

most importantly... congrats
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:24 AM   #28
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First the PEX: Buy a PVC/drip system pipe cutter to cut the ends square. I have found the best assortment of fittings at Lowes, but you are looking for slip on fittings with names like Shark Bite. Putting PEX together with the rings and associated pliers is more of a pain.
Second: Figure out what works now and what needs immediate attention. I would do tires as a given need as the tires are likely old and likely to fail from age. Close the two red top valves and put water into the system using the outside connection and a garden hose. Look for leaks by following the piping from one end to the other. See if the faucets and toilet valve work. Hopefully you won't have leaks in the lines themselves, but don't count on it. There is a check valve in the pump that should keep water from going in to the water tank.

Another way to check for leaks is to put water into the water tank and turn on the water pump. open the faucets until you get water to them and then shut all the faucets and valves. keep the pump turned on. If there are leaks, the pump will cycle on and off or just stay running if the leak is bad enough. You can identify what needs fixing NOW in the plumbing this way.

If the UNIVOLT works, you can live with the buzzing until you get the time and money to replace it. If the UNIVOLT doesn't work (12V lights don't work when you are plugged in and the battery is disconnected) then that is an immediate need. Be sure to have a battery hooked up when you are plugged in for extended periods and check the battery water frequently.

The furnace should be replaced if you think you will be needing it.

If the water heater survives the plumbing tests, try to light it. If it lights and the control fires the main burner, it may be workable. Replacing one is not a huge job.

Put water in the black tank (through the toilet) and see if you have leakage into the drains. If you do, you can rebuild or replace the dump valve(s). Pull the handle after checking for leaks and see if the dump valve really dumps.
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