The table can be a pain to put up and down if you don't have the cushions out of the way. I have not played with this much so far since there are so many more important things to work on. I have found if I remove the skinny cushion first, and then raise the side cushions half way there is not much of a problem. One lifts the end of the table so the clips on the back of the table release from the wall mounts, and down it comes. My table leg needs a little work since it will not lock in the retracted position. Also I put the skinny cushion in last. Just seems easier.
I am looking for a break controller right now. The two most popular seem to be the Jordan Ultima 2020, and the Tekonsha Prodigy. I'm still doing research on this. What break controller did you end up with?
I basically have no color scheme. I have no idea why the PO decided to spend $350 to recover in dark blue. The original orange carpeting is still in the compartments.
If you get to the VACList do a search for 'boat'. There was talk about using epoxy to repair the wood at the door. It is the same method they use on the hulls of big wooden boats.
Here is an excerpt from Mr. Will Henshall from that list. I was saving some of this before I realized my floor was all aluminum. It even runs underneath the walls.
The other method.
3) Using runny epoxy to slowly rebuild sections using the rotten wood as
an initial former, with temporary pieces underneath to make molds, which
is exactly how old wooden boats are repaired.
I was really put off using epoxy by talking to a few good folk. It is a
dangerous chemical and if not done right is actually not strong enough.
It is hard to get the strengthened new bits tied into the walls
properly. You have to have used epoxy before, you MUST rent breathing
gear and the fumes will off gas for about 2 weeks at least.
If I had researched this avenue more I actually WOULD have used this
method by the way in my case over the complete floor replace. Look on
line for places like http://www.rotdoctor.com/
for more info. Re the
strength issues - hey they use this on old wooden boats - think about
the strength required there and the consequences of failure out at sea.
If you can fix up a boat hull, I figure you can fix up a trailer floor.
I did a lot of fiberglass work as a kid with my dad.
The original thread also spoke of repairing sections by replacing parts of the floor. Very difficult.
Hope this helps.