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Old 01-21-2012, 11:47 PM   #15
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All I can say is "been there, done that"
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:14 AM   #16
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Seems easy enough. Get the old one out. Put the new one in. Go camping anywhere you want. Like Luckenbach.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:20 AM   #17
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What makes one furnance more deadly than another?

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Old 01-22-2012, 09:47 AM   #18
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You should be able to get the sucker out with only a partial disassembly. It's not as bad as it looks. Strategically drill out the rivets so you can shift the post out of the way. Consider replacing with a NT35. Costs about the same and more output. Or Atwood makes a more efficient furnace.

Percy, the problem with the NT22 is the rubber crossover tube rots away and the furnace will then pump CO into the trailer which is not a good thing.

Old furnaces are just not worth it. New ones work much better, old parts are just about impossible to find, and most RV techs won't toruch them with a pole.
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:59 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX View Post

Hmmm, an excuse ...er... REASON to buy a Sawzall.... that has potential!

I had thought of an angle grinder, but that wasn't nearly as sexy as a Sawzall. I wonder if I'd spend less time and do less damage working with a Sawzall through the cabinet door than just taking it all apart.

The NT20S is 12" square on the end, by the way, so it'll fit through the door just fine.
icocbw, since you have the new furnace in your hand, and I don't, but the specs here say that it's smaller....

the specs on the 30 and 40 series here say that those units are the size you're quoting.

the grinder would tend to be a bit messier and more hazardous in that space for a complete demo of the furnace. personally, I'd shy away from one here. if you do use it, have a bucket of water and a fire extinguisher at the ready, please.


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Originally Posted by BIGED52 View Post
Do yourself a big favor! Take the path that will assure you the safety and piece of mind to know that you did it right. Take the galley apart and remove the old furnace correctly. Then you can install the replacement one and test it. Then be confident it is 100% installed and connected to the best of your ability. Re-assemble the cabinet and countertop only after you know the furnace is operatioal. Hope you can see that this is a very important safety issue. So take the extra time. Happy Trails, Ed
safety should always be a given.... gloves, goggles, masks, as appropriate.

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New furnace is 12" wide so I guess if it were me I'd try to disassemble the existing furnace in place. That may be more difficult than it sounds though. A sawzall is not a cure all as they can be awkward to use in tight spaces. Chances are most of the components can be disassembled and if the heat exchanger will not fit through the cabinet doors it can be compacted somewhat with a hammer or a large clamp so it will fit. Knocking down the furnace housing should be straightforward once the internal parts have been removed.

Nothing unsafe about installing a new furnace without removing the cabinets IMO.
Jammer offers an idea that leads to a question - is the furnace constructed such that you can free the "chassis" from the shell and slide them out?

then you just have to deal with collapsing the shell?

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Often a die grinder or dremel tool is more help than a sawzall as they can be used to cut out small fasteners that by virtue of corrosion or access can't be removed any other way.
or, a hand powered or hand held electric shear could also be useful.

looking at these pictures leads me to think it can be done?
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:13 AM   #20
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Jammer offers an idea that leads to a question - is the furnace constructed such that you can free the "chassis" from the shell and slide them out?

then you just have to deal with collapsing the shell?
Yeah, the Suburban furnaces innards are mounted on a track. There is a screw that secures the workings from the shell. Remove the screw and slide the furnace out on the track. Even though I have seen some dumb things I would be surprised if Airstream did not have some method of working on the furnace other than taking the trailer apart.

This is not the case for Airstream refrigerators which you really do have to take out the cabinetry and umpteen screws.
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:29 AM   #21
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Yeah, the Suburban furnaces innards are mounted on a track. There is a screw that secures the workings from the shell. Remove the screw and slide the furnace out on the track. Even though I have seen some dumb things I would be surprised if Airstream did not have some method of working on the furnace other than taking the trailer apart.

This is not the case for Airstream refrigerators which you really do have to take out the cabinetry and umpteen screws.
I think that the innards HAVE to slide out, to access some of the screws that hold the case down. The innards are pretty much the same width as the case, though, and much longer than the space between the mouth of the case and the cabinet door frame.

My initial thought was to remove the center post as you suggested earlier, which would make this relatively easy. The 4 rivets at the top that are backed by the 4"-deep tray are the real problem (and even without the tray, I'd probably have to remove the sink to have a shot at drilling the upper two anyway, even if I were willing to destroy that tray.
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:54 PM   #22
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icocbw, since you have the new furnace in your hand, and I don't, but the specs here say that it's smaller....

the specs on the 30 and 40 series here say that those units are the size you're quoting.
In fact, putting the tape to the case itself, it's in between the various numbers. The body of the case matches the dimensions of the "Q" series you linked, but there's a flange at the inboard end (the one with the removable cover, not the combustion intake/exhaust) and that end measures just under 11" on a side. In any event, it'll easily fit through the cabinet door.

Mine is an NT20S manufactured in 2010, so perhaps the new "Q" models don't have the flange at the end?
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:55 PM   #23
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Well, i was hoping that I would be able to provide some sort of helpful info since we just pulled ours out...but nope. i had hubby go out to our furnace thats lying in the grass, and see if there is any way to dismantle it while under the cabinet. sorry...no dice. He said ours was held in by 2 (yes 2) screws to the outside vent. But other than that, he had to destroy the cabinet to get it out. Hopefully, you dont have to DESTROY.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:57 PM   #24
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How's this project going?
You need me to bring my arsenal of tools up there and help you out?
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:33 PM   #25
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How's this project going?
You need me to bring my arsenal of tools up there and help you out?
You are welcome to visit here anytime you like, with or without arsenal. This furnace project, however, is probably going to wait a while. I want to camp in February and March, and the likely February destination (Dinosaur Valley State Park) and the definite March destination (Region 9 rally in Mineola) have electric hookups, so my little ceramic heater will do the trick.

I picked up a big plastic bin for the new furnace to live in for a while... it'll keep it dry and protected in the "garage" until I have the stomach for removing the cabinetry.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:03 PM   #26
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You are welcome to visit here anytime you like, with or without arsenal. This furnace project, however, is probably going to wait a while. I want to camp in February and March, and the likely February destination (Dinosaur Valley State Park) and the definite March destination (Region 9 rally in Mineola) have electric hookups, so my little ceramic heater will do the trick.

I picked up a big plastic bin for the new furnace to live in for a while... it'll keep it dry and protected in the "garage" until I have the stomach for removing the cabinetry.
Thanks for the warm welcome.
Well I'm glad you aren't cutting yourself short on camping.
With Mrs S in school I'll have loads of free time this year and by the time your done with all of your spring camping I'll be in idle mode so if you need some help just let me know.
If yall would like a change of scenery you would be more than welcome to visit us in the piney woods as well, we have more than enough room to accommodate you and we have high speed wifi in the event you might need it for work.
We could easily knock that job out in a weekend. ( If all went well)
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:08 PM   #27
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DKB, don't feel bad. Today I was in our Argosy, looking at the increasingly cracking 35-yr-old plastic refrigerator exhaust cover. (It's exposed in the Minuet, rather than nicely buried in a cabinet.) Hmmm. Fixing that means taking out the overhead cabinet and the countertop...

Maybe next year.

Tom
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:29 PM   #28
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Take a look at my blog. I covered the refer vent without losing a lot of counter top space.
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