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Old 08-14-2013, 10:37 PM   #57
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1976 Argosy 28
Milton , Ontario
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3 months later...

Wow, it's been 3 months since I last posted any updates.

To bring everyone up to speed, I removed the 4x8 sheet rotten plywood in the rear and a piece around the battery, see previous post for pictures.

The outriggers, in my opinion were not that bad, only swiss cheesy on the bottoms, so rather than tear those apart, I sistered in pieces of 14 gauge 'L' steel that match the profile of the existing outrigger. These were given to me by Grant Davidson, a forum member.

I borrowed my brother-in-law's mig welder, worked great for being a little 115V 20Amp unit, and welded them in and strengthened up the 'C' channel where needed.

I figure, if our Argosy lasted 37 years with very little maintenance, that with my patch work done the trailer would last another 20 years, at least...good enough for me!

After grinding everything smooth, well sort of, I added 2 coats of black Tremclad rust preventative paint.

Now, I'm ready to put the floor in. I will use a product from Lowes - Accuply 15/32" 5-ply plywood. It looks better than Good One Side (G1S) and is only a buck or two more per sheet.

I will apply epoxy paint all around the underside, edges and topside of the plywood to protect the wood somewhat from water penetration.

I have 1/4-20x2 trox flat socket floorboard screws to hold the plywood in place and will use 1/4" galvanized 'E' bolts with rubber washers and #10 3/4" Stainless Steel screws around the edges of the frame.

One thing that I will change, slightly, is move the 3/8" SS bolts with hold-down plate out about 2-4" in the channel, so that I tie directly into the 'C' channel rather than the added hold-down plate.

The above processes were all taken from various posts from members...thanks for your input.

Chris

PS I promise not to wait so long to post again...
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:57 PM   #58
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1976 Argosy 28
Milton , Ontario
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Moving right along...

Our Argosy, like everyone else's of the '74-'76 era, has the rear 'L' shaped steel piece rotted away, due to water invasion and dissimilar metals coming into contact with each other. So, what I did to make it stronger and hopefully, last longer than 37 years, was to put in a new flat piece of 14 gauge steel 6" wide, that runs across the back. It is screwed into each 'C' frame, thus making it stronger than the original.

I painted both sides with Rustolium before securing it in place.

We made sure that the rear lid was properly seated and once painted will be pop-riveted in place with aluminum rivets.

We're off to Lowes tomorrow to pickup a couple of sheets of plywood and I'll have to dig out the cardboard template, so that the plywood can be cut to shape.

Things are moving right along and hopefully, will have the flooring in by next week.

Until next time...
Chris
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:10 AM   #59
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Long Weekend...

Good Morning Everyone,

For those of you following my thread, we took this past Labor Day weekend to finish off the sub-floor painting, cutting the plywood to shape and installing it. This task took a little longer than I thought, but well worth the effort.

I must say, seeing brand new pieces of plywood in place makes all the effort worth while. With my sons' help we were able to coax the sheets in and out.

For now, I will be epoxying the edges and installing them permanently, all without removing the shell...yeah!

Here is where I have a question, once the plywood is in permanently, "What should I paint the floor with?"

Look forward to your advise,
Chris
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:31 AM   #60
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I had a bit of rot in the rear of mine and did a smaller patch job- yours looks much nicer!

I would get some epoxy (I use West Systems) and brushed on a layer of that. Once it cured I put a laminate floor on top. If you epoxy it, it will last indefinitely.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:25 PM   #61
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Gettin' excited...

You know when your are working on a project and you finish one little detail that gets your excited!

Well, we finished the the rear bumper tonight. My spouse did the spray painting, I added the Stainless Steel expanded metal floor and put the last 2 rivets in the hold-up bar...well I'm excited, cause it looks beautiful!

With the expanded metal in the back, I believe it will improve the air flow and prevent water from sitting in the corners and thus creating a rust haven.

What do you think?
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:34 PM   #62
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1964 26' Overlander
1974 31' Sovereign
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Looks great, Chris!
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Milton, ON

1946 Spartan Manor
1954 Va-Ka-Shun-Ette
1964 Overlander
1965 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
1974 Sovereign
2005 F-350 SRW 4x4 crew cab long box
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:04 AM   #63
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Water Pressure Regulator...

I am working on the plumbing part of the trailer and was looking for updated parts (check valve, pressure regulator and pressure relief valve) for the street/park water supply.

You see the way they had all those parts connected, caused the regulator to crack. The check valve kept water in the regulator and when winter came along...CRACK!

I checked most of the Big Box stores and came away empty handed.

Then I went to West Marine, they had the right stuff - a combined check valve and water pressure regulator that connected outside the trailer and in-line with the hose.

Now, not only is the trailer protected with these parts in place, so is my fresh water hose.

Chris
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:18 PM   #64
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'J' Channel...

Awhile back someone asked about the 'J' channel that capped off the interior panel ends.

When in CanAm RV, Ontario, Canada, last month, I asked Christine, who works in their Parts Department, about availabilty.

She called Airstream and they gave her a Part Number - 200019 to order under. The plastic trim is ivory in colour and made of a vinyl material. It is very plyable and follows the conture edges very nicely.

Of note, you can cut the back side every 1/4" so it will bend to fit around windows!

The 'J' trim is sold per foot and comes in 12' lengths. A word of caution, remember to state how many feet you want and round up to the nearest 12' piece.

We started putting things back together this morning and I took a couple of pictures.

Until next time.
Chris
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:48 PM   #65
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Hey, Roxul insulation from our home town! You can't get more local than that.
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Milton, ON

1946 Spartan Manor
1954 Va-Ka-Shun-Ette
1964 Overlander
1965 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
1974 Sovereign
2005 F-350 SRW 4x4 crew cab long box
TAC ON-5
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:46 AM   #66
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Roxul has great insulation characteristics, as well as, it repels water...Great stuff!

The only thing about Roxul, is that it's STIFF.

The above picture shows my son, cutting pieces to fit the curves.
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:42 PM   #67
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Paint Match...

Hello Everyone,

We are looking for your insight into matching paint on the bed trim pieces. The colour looks like iodized copper on the aluminum rails, see picture.

My spouse had a colour mixed, but it didn't match.

We just want to cover the scratches and scrapes.

So, any insight would be appreciated.

Chris
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