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Old 04-05-2017, 11:47 AM   #21
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Official dimensions

Since the glass was shattered it was hard to get an exact measurement, so I went to Inland RV's website and used their glass dimension of 39" x 20-1/2". I think 20-3/8" would have worked better.
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Old 06-04-2017, 04:46 PM   #22
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Hi Jarjop - I have a 75 Argosy that's missing the curbside curved window. Do you have any further details on how you replaces the window with Lexan? How did you cut it to fit, how did you secure it, etc. I am a total newbie so any help is appreciated!
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Old 06-12-2017, 05:29 PM   #23
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I'm in the same boat with a '78 27 foot Argosy.

Need to know if outside rivets come off or inside ones....

TIA,

John
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Old 06-12-2017, 05:46 PM   #24
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Lexan window

I did the same for my driver's side wing window on my 69 Overlander. Went to Home Depot and bought a sheet of Lexan. I , removed the window frame and it came apart with some small screws on the corner. I traced the window size allowing some extra to fit into the frame. I used a bandsaw to cut the Lexan to size then slide it in the frame and sealed it with silicone caulk. I put t back in with rivets.

Total cost about $27. I also had to buy a rivet removal tool on-line that you need to drill out the Olympic rivets holding in the frame.

I have since then installed a rock guard.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:15 PM   #25
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So you removed rivets from the outside?
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:05 AM   #26
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Yes, you need to get a rivet removal tool for the Olympic rivets.

If you go on line with Amazon, type in "rivet removal tool" you will see it. It is really the only way to get the rivets out without a great deal of hassle.

It is a tool that is good to have owning an airstream. I have used it many other tines on other parts of the airstream.

There were 50 rivets holding in the frame. I pop riveted the frame back in after rather than working with Olympic rivets. It doesn't look like the original, I just put a dab of sealant over the pop rivet.

My airstream is 48 years old and you can't fuss over every little detail. I just want it functional and weather proof.

After I get this posted, I'll get the link for the tool and send another post.
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:13 AM   #27
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Thanks John! Are there different thicknesses of Lexan? Or is it all the same?
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:41 AM   #28
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Like I said, you can get it from Vintage Trailer Supply, or just do an internet search and find the best price, although I think Vintage TS has the lowest price.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:55 PM   #29
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Mine is done.

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.093 Lexan, made a cardboard template, only removed the straight piece and four rivets top and bottom. Took them out with 1/8" drill, center-punched first.
Bent and slid the plastic in after much trimming and sanding, fortunately I have access to a full shop with an industrial size bandsaw. I haven't put any sealer in yet but it will easily squeeze into the channel. Just used regular aluminum pop rivets and I'm not worried about them coming loose.

Honestly, it was easier than I thought it would be. Now onto the next job....
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Old 06-14-2017, 06:31 AM   #30
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There are different thicknesses of Lexan, I used the the thin size they had at Home Depot. It was a bit loose in the frame, but it curved easily and with the silicone sealant, it was snug and water tight
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Old 06-14-2017, 06:36 AM   #31
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Nice work Matt!
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Old 06-15-2017, 11:49 AM   #32
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That's awesome Matt. And great info, I swear I probably would have just removed every rivet to pull the frame out completely and not even thought to just slide the lexan in with the majority of the frame still in place.
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Old 07-27-2017, 05:04 PM   #33
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Hey Matt- I am finally getting around to this project. Did you find a replacement window frame gasket (not even sure if that's what it is called)? Photos are below. Did you use this as well as the sealant in the frame? 
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:53 AM   #34
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No, I didn't use the window gasket material. I'm pretty sure it's not hard to find but you would definitely need to take out all the rivets to install a lexan window with that stuff.

I actually haven't sealed it at all since I ran out of time before I had to leave the west coast. I plan on sealing with silicone when I get back out there, I'm currently in Michigan working on a different Argosy.

I'm not too worried about water getting in right now since it's stored in Fernley, NV. Also I haven't done any work on the floors yet so it's not likely to get worse than it already is.

Thanks,

John
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Old 10-01-2018, 10:25 AM   #35
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I have (2) 1976 Sovereigns that I am slowly restoring. All of the windows are dual-pane, and all of the windows have tinting on the inside that is cracked and peeling. Is the only solution replacing all of the windows?
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Old 11-04-2018, 06:31 PM   #36
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No idea since the Argosy panorama windows are totally different from regular 1976 Airstream windows. Try asking in the Sovereign forum



http://www.airforums.com/forums/f221/



I'm sure somebody over there has an answer.


Cheers,


John
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Old 03-03-2019, 09:47 PM   #37
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Hey Folks - I am trying to replace my window in my 1975 Argosy. I found a replacement glass (so not Lexan) but am having a hard time getting it back into the frame with the replacement rubber gasket. Any help would me much appreciated! Original post here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...es-192689.html
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Old 04-18-2019, 12:40 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Ksweesy View Post
Hello All

Getting ready to restore a 1974 Argosy 22. We are new to the trailer world and found a lot of information in the forums. Our front & rear center flat windows are missing and one wrap around. Found some post about Lexan but nothing with correct thickness, cutting the wrap around etc.. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Hello, I made a Lexan window for my 95 AS. Bayer Makrolon is specifically formulated for windows, and I believe it's available in a smoke tint.

You can see the thread here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...te-171584.html
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Old 04-28-2019, 01:51 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by matthewsx View Post
Mine is done.

Attachment 287532

.093 Lexan, made a cardboard template, only removed the straight piece and four rivets top and bottom. Took them out with 1/8" drill, center-punched first.
Bent and slid the plastic in after much trimming and sanding, fortunately I have access to a full shop with an industrial size bandsaw. I haven't put any sealer in yet but it will easily squeeze into the channel. Just used regular aluminum pop rivets and I'm not worried about them coming loose.

Honestly, it was easier than I thought it would be. Now onto the next job....
Great job! Can you clarify how you did this without removing the entire frame? I am about to replace both of my curved windows in my 79 Argosy and I think your method would make the job so much easier. Thank you!
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:00 AM   #40
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I removed the straight section towards the middle and about 6Ē of rivets from the top and bottom. Then I cut my cardboard template and trimmed the lexan to size. It took quite a bit of trial fitting with only removing a little material at a time. Once it was trimmed right it slid into place and I replaced the straight piece and rivets. A large bandsaw and belt sander made it easier than using hand tools but it could be done that way too. The lexan is fairly cheap and flexes right into place. Good luck.

Cheers,

John
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