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Old 08-01-2012, 12:15 PM   #1
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leveling

This is my first dual axel unit. We're just about to make our maiden voyage. I'd like to hear some ideas about leveling.
Blocks of wood 60" long (difficult to store), the BAL levelers??
Any other ideas?
Paul
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:21 PM   #2
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I use two ramps cut from 4X4 lumber, one short enough to go between the tires, and two chocks.

I either back or pull the trailer up on the ramps until level, then place the chocks so the wheels won't run down the ramps, chock the other side, and then unhook.

The ramps can also be used as a "jack" to lift one side of the trailer in the event of a flat by driving just the inflated tire up on the ramp.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:33 PM   #3
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I have some wedges cut from 6x4 lumber and also the yellow Lego block type levelers. Both work well
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:35 PM   #4
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I use Lynx levelers on my triple axle. They have worked fine so far and are compact in storage. I keep them in the outside compartment under the couch.
Lynx Levelers
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:22 PM   #5
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If by BAL leveler you mean this thingo, that looks like it could work but it's kinda pricey, and for a tandem trailer you'd want 2. Norco says it's just for single-axle applications, though. I had never seen a reference to one of those before searching for it just now, I guess I always googled "BAL stabilizer" before! If you mean the BAL stabilizers that may be installed on your trailer, those aren't ever to be used to move the trailer, just to keep it FROM moving.

The only place I've had a problem with the Lynx blocks is the place I use them the most... getting the trailer level when parked at the curb in front of the house while we're loading up for a trip and I want to run the fridge. I'm thinking of implementing the suggestion that several people have made to cut a wedge shape into the end of boards so the tire will roll up on it instead of pushing it away (like one tire invariably does on the street in front of the house.)
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:05 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
I use two ramps cut from 4X4 lumber, one short enough to go between the tires, and two chocks.

I either back or pull the trailer up on the ramps until level, then place the chocks so the wheels won't run down the ramps, chock the other side, and then unhook.

The ramps can also be used as a "jack" to lift one side of the trailer in the event of a flat by driving just the inflated tire up on the ramp.
Yep...but go a little wider...6" x 6" or 8" even better to support tire width.

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Old 08-01-2012, 03:16 PM   #7
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On a dual axel trailer, do you need to be concerned if the trailer is front to back off-level too? In other words, is it OK to treat both axels the same, or do you need to keep the front and back axels in good balance too? For a long term stay, i could forsee getting the 4 wheels all on the same plane. But for a day or two, how important is it?

Chris
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:05 PM   #8
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I just use the plastic block levelers. I put the same number under each wheel. I guess if there was an obvious hole under one wheel I might do something about it, but mostly just the same for each wheel on the low side. I level side to side with the blocks, and front to back with the jack. Has to be pretty level for the fridge to work. I do not use the stabilizers to level at all. Just down snug if I even put them down. I would not know where to put any kind of jack without hurting the airstream, so I level from the wheels and the tongue jack. I am normally a wood guy. But not for leveling. The plastic blocks are so much smaller, lighter, and cleaner that wood blocks.
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btowntincan View Post
On a dual axel trailer, do you need to be concerned if the trailer is front to back off-level too? In other words, is it OK to treat both axels the same, or do you need to keep the front and back axels in good balance too? For a long term stay, i could forsee getting the 4 wheels all on the same plane. But for a day or two, how important is it?

Chris
Not too sure about your question, but I normally try to raise both wheels on the low side the same amount, and then like Bill M, I use the tongue jack to level front to back, then lower the stabilizers.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btowntincan View Post
On a dual axel trailer, do you need to be concerned if the trailer is front to back off-level too? In other words, is it OK to treat both axels the same, or do you need to keep the front and back axels in good balance too? For a long term stay, i could forsee getting the 4 wheels all on the same plane. But for a day or two, how important is it?

Chris
Leveling axles front to back is not to important unless it is way off (more then 6"). If it is way off just using the tongue jack to level front to back can torque the trailer making it hard to open the door.
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:18 PM   #11
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Leveling front to back is important when it comes to the refer. I use the Linx leveling blocks and support both front and rear axles evenly.
Also I don't like sleeping with my head down hill.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:12 AM   #12
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The plastic blocks are so much smaller, lighter, and cleaner that wood blocks.
(2) 6" X 6" X 18" wooden blocks= 648 in/cubed= ~ 11# (assume cedar @ 30#/ft cubed). 6" of lift, cost = free (if you have scrap wood laying around)
Lynx blocks = 8" x 8" x 10" (sold in 10 packs= 5" of lift) 640 in/cubed= 8#, cost = ~ $40.

So wooden blocks can give greater lift for a given volume (important considering storage space), are a bit heavier, much less expensive, but apparently dirty? (I just clap them together before storing...the dirt falls off as I have since painted our's seen in the pic above... silver of course...)

Legos= similar volume to wooden blocks, less lift, more expensive, but apparently do not touch the ground?
(Must be the levitating Lynx blocks...)

Wood has yet to break/split after 7 years...which I understand is a common complaint with the legos...

Either will get the job done, depends on how handy/thrifty you are...and yes it is important to level the coach...to a point where it is "comfortable to live in". I shoot for 1" or 2" in all directions (bubble on bottom interior of fridge is best).
The newer fridges are more tolerant than the older ones...we can vouch for that ($).


Back in the day AirStream sold aluminum blocks like the ones I made (above)...that's where I got the idea...have never been able to find a pair for sale...that would be a great score...

Stream on, B
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:38 AM   #13
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I carry 2xs and legos. Mostly use the 2xs. The legos hold a lot of dirt. Sal.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX View Post
... cut a wedge shape into the end of boards so the tire will roll up on it instead of pushing it away (like one tire invariably does on the street in front of the house.)
Here is a trick when even the wedge shape won't stay in place (I have a gravel drive and my 3 axle just scoots the ramps)

Get a long section of scrap carpet, really long. Set the ramps on the carpet 4 feet from the end. As you pull the trailer, the second tire needs to be on the carpet when the 1st tire starts up the ramp. The weight of the 2nd axle will keep the carpet from scooting and the ramp will hang onto the carpet. It also works with ramps for all of the tires, just make sure all of the ramps are on the carpet.

I use this trick to lift one axle into the air for brake/bearing work.
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