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08-01-2012, 11:15 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
Topping
, Virginia
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 118
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leveling
This is my first dual axel unit. We're just about to make our maiden voyage. I'd like to hear some ideas about leveling.
Blocks of wood 60" long (difficult to store), the BAL levelers??
Any other ideas?
Paul
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08-01-2012, 11:21 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
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I use two ramps cut from 4X4 lumber, one short enough to go between the tires, and two chocks.
I either back or pull the trailer up on the ramps until level, then place the chocks so the wheels won't run down the ramps, chock the other side, and then unhook.
The ramps can also be used as a "jack" to lift one side of the trailer in the event of a flat by driving just the inflated tire up on the ramp.
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08-01-2012, 11:33 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
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I have some wedges cut from 6x4 lumber and also the yellow Lego block type levelers. Both work well
__________________
Jason
May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..
2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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08-01-2012, 11:35 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1982 34' Limited
Brunswick
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,084
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I use Lynx levelers on my triple axle. They have worked fine so far and are compact in storage. I keep them in the outside compartment under the couch.
Lynx Levelers
__________________
1982 34' Limited
2000 Excursion V10 4x4
WBCCI #3321
TAC #GA-24
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08-01-2012, 01:22 PM
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#5
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Moderator
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,523
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If by BAL leveler you mean this thingo, that looks like it could work but it's kinda pricey, and for a tandem trailer you'd want 2. Norco says it's just for single-axle applications, though. I had never seen a reference to one of those before searching for it just now, I guess I always googled "BAL stabilizer" before! If you mean the BAL stabilizers that may be installed on your trailer, those aren't ever to be used to move the trailer, just to keep it FROM moving.
The only place I've had a problem with the Lynx blocks is the place I use them the most... getting the trailer level when parked at the curb in front of the house while we're loading up for a trip and I want to run the fridge. I'm thinking of implementing the suggestion that several people have made to cut a wedge shape into the end of boards so the tire will roll up on it instead of pushing it away (like one tire invariably does on the street in front of the house.)
__________________
— David
Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566
He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
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08-01-2012, 02:05 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Short
1989 25' Excella
By The Bay
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH
I use two ramps cut from 4X4 lumber, one short enough to go between the tires, and two chocks.
I either back or pull the trailer up on the ramps until level, then place the chocks so the wheels won't run down the ramps, chock the other side, and then unhook.
The ramps can also be used as a "jack" to lift one side of the trailer in the event of a flat by driving just the inflated tire up on the ramp.
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Yep...but go a little wider...6" x 6" or 8" even better to support tire width.
__________________
*Life is Good-Camping all around the Continent*
*Good people drink good beer-Hunter S Thompson*
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08-01-2012, 02:16 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Mercer Island
, Washington
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 146
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On a dual axel trailer, do you need to be concerned if the trailer is front to back off-level too? In other words, is it OK to treat both axels the same, or do you need to keep the front and back axels in good balance too? For a long term stay, i could forsee getting the 4 wheels all on the same plane. But for a day or two, how important is it?
Chris
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08-01-2012, 03:05 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1988 25' Excella
1987 32' Excella
Knoxville
, Tennessee
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,118
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I just use the plastic block levelers. I put the same number under each wheel. I guess if there was an obvious hole under one wheel I might do something about it, but mostly just the same for each wheel on the low side. I level side to side with the blocks, and front to back with the jack. Has to be pretty level for the fridge to work. I do not use the stabilizers to level at all. Just down snug if I even put them down. I would not know where to put any kind of jack without hurting the airstream, so I level from the wheels and the tongue jack. I am normally a wood guy. But not for leveling. The plastic blocks are so much smaller, lighter, and cleaner that wood blocks.
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08-01-2012, 03:10 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btowntincan
On a dual axel trailer, do you need to be concerned if the trailer is front to back off-level too? In other words, is it OK to treat both axels the same, or do you need to keep the front and back axels in good balance too? For a long term stay, i could forsee getting the 4 wheels all on the same plane. But for a day or two, how important is it?
Chris
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Not too sure about your question, but I normally try to raise both wheels on the low side the same amount, and then like Bill M, I use the tongue jack to level front to back, then lower the stabilizers.
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08-01-2012, 05:58 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btowntincan
On a dual axel trailer, do you need to be concerned if the trailer is front to back off-level too? In other words, is it OK to treat both axels the same, or do you need to keep the front and back axels in good balance too? For a long term stay, i could forsee getting the 4 wheels all on the same plane. But for a day or two, how important is it?
Chris
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Leveling axles front to back is not to important unless it is way off (more then 6"). If it is way off just using the tongue jack to level front to back can torque the trailer making it hard to open the door.
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08-01-2012, 08:18 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Leveling front to back is important when it comes to the refer. I use the Linx leveling blocks and support both front and rear axles evenly.
Also I don't like sleeping with my head down hill.
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08-02-2012, 07:12 AM
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#12
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1 Rivet Short
1989 25' Excella
By The Bay
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M.
The plastic blocks are so much smaller, lighter, and cleaner that wood blocks.
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(2) 6" X 6" X 18" wooden blocks= 648 in/cubed= ~ 11# (assume cedar @ 30#/ft cubed). 6" of lift, cost = free (if you have scrap wood laying around)
Lynx blocks = 8" x 8" x 10" (sold in 10 packs= 5" of lift) 640 in/cubed= 8#, cost = ~ $40.
So wooden blocks can give greater lift for a given volume (important considering storage space), are a bit heavier, much less expensive, but apparently dirty? (I just clap them together before storing...the dirt falls off as I have since painted our's seen in the pic above... silver of course...)
Legos= similar volume to wooden blocks, less lift, more expensive, but apparently do not touch the ground?
(Must be the levitating Lynx blocks...)
Wood has yet to break/split after 7 years...which I understand is a common complaint with the legos...
Either will get the job done, depends on how handy/thrifty you are...and yes it is important to level the coach...to a point where it is "comfortable to live in". I shoot for 1" or 2" in all directions (bubble on bottom interior of fridge is best).
The newer fridges are more tolerant than the older ones...we can vouch for that ($).
Back in the day AirStream sold aluminum blocks like the ones I made (above)...that's where I got the idea...have never been able to find a pair for sale...that would be a great score...
Stream on, B
__________________
*Life is Good-Camping all around the Continent*
*Good people drink good beer-Hunter S Thompson*
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08-02-2012, 07:38 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1981 27' Excella II
mays landing
, South Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,179
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I carry 2xs and legos. Mostly use the 2xs. The legos hold a lot of dirt. Sal.
__________________
Sal & Nora
Let us live so that when we die even the undertaker will be sorry. Mark Twain
AIR 42483
TAC N.J. 17
WBCCI 24740
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08-02-2012, 07:41 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX
... cut a wedge shape into the end of boards so the tire will roll up on it instead of pushing it away (like one tire invariably does on the street in front of the house.)
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Here is a trick when even the wedge shape won't stay in place (I have a gravel drive and my 3 axle just scoots the ramps)
Get a long section of scrap carpet, really long. Set the ramps on the carpet 4 feet from the end. As you pull the trailer, the second tire needs to be on the carpet when the 1st tire starts up the ramp. The weight of the 2nd axle will keep the carpet from scooting and the ramp will hang onto the carpet. It also works with ramps for all of the tires, just make sure all of the ramps are on the carpet.
I use this trick to lift one axle into the air for brake/bearing work.
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08-02-2012, 07:47 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2011 28' International
Chatham
, Ontario
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,401
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I like the lego blocks, Lynx in our case. I am looking at getting some wooden wedges made for our driveway, which is on a slope; I'd like both axles to under similar loads when Towed Haul is at home.
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