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Old 07-13-2008, 08:03 PM   #1
Ruben
 
1977 Argosy 24
Monterey County , California
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 24
Leak behind toilet

hi all,
after having aquired my 77` reardoor 24ft`er(bought off ebay after seeing it but not alot of detailed-info on it which I did ask for beforehand)..
I just got around to testing my plumbing system Fri. & discovered a couple of leaks in copper piping:
1) was under sink off T to the water heater,
2nd) was behind toilet where I heard water splashing back there & after removal of the panel I found that the two copper lines burst & have a couple of small holes.
Budget for this trailer is somewhat minimal(after finding out how much tlc it needs) & I was going to use the "clamps & rubber pad" method to seal the holes but wonder how long this fix might last?
anyone have any other suggestions aside from re-plumbing system?
also what is the recommended water-pressure for the plumbing system(w/pressure reducer) on these Argy`s?
(I`ll be posting pics of works in progress in case anyone`s interested)
Thank`s!
ps: at 1st I did`nt realize this was going to be such a restoration project but my wife & I plus our 2 boys really love it.
I`m into restoring vintage/antique stuff & look foward to the day it`s all cleaned up & ready for use!
(will be posting pics of work in progress soon)
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Old 07-13-2008, 08:07 PM   #2
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1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
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I was performing a repair in our '74 a few months ago, and found a water leak that had been repaired with a reinforced rubber hose and a pair of hose clamps. It looked like it had been that way for decades, so I would tentatively say you could make a repair that way. Just remember it is a temporary repair, and you should take care of it someday.
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Old 07-14-2008, 04:24 PM   #3
Ruben
 
1977 Argosy 24
Monterey County , California
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Thank`s overlander63,
I`ll try the temp-fix for now but I`m still curious to know what the water pressure(going in) is supposed to be?
I assume if one does not use a pressure-reducer fitting(I always do) this can make the copper pipes burst...correct?
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Old 07-14-2008, 04:34 PM   #4
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1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock , Arkansas
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Rivet Welcome to the Forums

Quote:
Originally Posted by granaudio View Post
Thank`s overlander63,
I`ll try the temp-fix for now but I`m still curious to know what the water pressure(going in) is supposed to be?
I assume if one does not use a pressure-reducer fitting(I always do) this can make the copper pipes burst...correct?
Congratulations on your purchase. It's not line pressure, it's freezing. You're probably wondering how I know this.

Best of luck with your new project.
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:22 PM   #5
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,190
I would not want to be anywhere near a copper water pipe that ruptured because of internal water pressure.
When water freezes, it expands, which is what usually swells and splits the lines. Since that is the case, you should make sure your copper pipes are still a standard size when you go to repair them permanently.
Also, water is normally regulated at about 35 psi. I've seen line pressure coming in to the trailer as high as 75 psi.
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:29 PM   #6
Ruben
 
1977 Argosy 24
Monterey County , California
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 24
Thank`s vswingfield,
it sounds like you had your pipes burst by freezing water & sorry to hear this.
My trailer I believe was manfg. in the California plant plus one of the last owners lived in AZ, does it get to freezing temps in AZ(kingman) in winter which is why this may have occured?
& does this weaken the other existing pipes?
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:37 PM   #7
Ruben
 
1977 Argosy 24
Monterey County , California
Join Date: Jul 2008
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overlander63-
it looks like this was the cause because there were one small hole in each line & where the holes are..the lines somewhat expanded.
I was able to push the expansion back into place then covered the holes & installed some reinforced rubber-hose secured with clamps but have not had a chance to test the system yet..hoping to check it sometime later today, hopefully I`ll have no leaks but I realized there`s not alot of room behind panel for any extras & may have a problem getting panel back into place if the repair holds.
Will update later.
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:50 PM   #8
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1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
Naples , Florida
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Yup it freezes in kingman,easiest way to fit it for good is blow out the lines,squeeze the crack shut,and braze it shut with nickle silver rod,the kind used by ac guys & med gas plumbers,if done correctly it will hold 150#. Justt don`t melt the skin!!!!!
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:19 PM   #9
Ruben
 
1977 Argosy 24
Monterey County , California
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This is a great group & want to thank all of you as all of my questions have been answered within 30 minutes after posting!

Update on water leak: I ran water thru the system again & my temp.-repair held but after checking things out I soon found a few other leaks, one main one was.. when I flushed the toilet water was present but it flowed out thru the lower-base of toilet when flushing...
do I have to remove the plastic-platform under the toilet to have access to bottom of toilet & seal? water line runs into side at base & does not appear to be leaking.
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:03 AM   #10
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1977 27' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
Naples , Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granaudio View Post
This is a great group & want to thank all of you as all of my questions have been answered within 30 minutes after posting!

Update on water leak: I ran water thru the system again & my temp.-repair held but after checking things out I soon found a few other leaks, one main one was.. when I flushed the toilet water was present but it flowed out thru the lower-base of toilet when flushing...
do I have to remove the plastic-platform under the toilet to have access to bottom of toilet & seal? water line runs into side at base & does not appear to be leaking.
Just get yourself a new toilet seal [ from a RV place ] don`t use bowl wax. Remove two nuts & water line,install new gasket,and reverse procedure.You make want to check floor while you are there.Dave
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:33 AM   #11
Ruben
 
1977 Argosy 24
Monterey County , California
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But how do I gain access to the bottom of the toilet & seal as there are no studs & screws that protrude thru base of toilet?
do I have to remove the platform to gain access to base of toilet to change out any seals?
The back panel behind the toilet is already away from wall so I guess the next step is to remove the platform...correct?
Thank`s!
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Old 07-15-2008, 12:19 PM   #12
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1976 24' Argosy 24
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It's a trick. There's a plug that covers one of the bolts. If you lift up the seat you'll see the plug. Remove the plug and push down the flush pedal and you'll see the bolt. The trick is to use a plastic soda bottle to hold back the guillotine in the toilet so you can get to the bolt with a long extension. The other bolt I believe is acessible in the area of the foot pedal. The plastic soda bottle is just strong enough to hold the guillotine without hurting it. Just try not to drop it into the holding tank when your done. I'll look at mine tonight to make sure I'm remembering correctly. If I'm off I'll report back tomorrow. George.
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Old 07-15-2008, 03:51 PM   #13
Ruben
 
1977 Argosy 24
Monterey County , California
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 24
Gkeisel,
thank`s for the info..
I just checked it & found the 1 bolt under the pedal,
I also found the plug under the seat & removed it...I could see the base of toilet thru the hole but there is no bolt at the corner-end of base,
there is a water line that runs right under the plug-hole & when I pushed it aside with a screw driver I can see a base-bolt almost directly under/behind flush-hole(oh man),
this is a Thetford Aqua-magic GH/GL/SH/SL model.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:12 PM   #14
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I found a pdf of one example of a Thetford manual that has some exploded drawings. Maybe they will help. Best of luck!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf perm_om_v.pdf (234.8 KB, 162 views)
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