KT Door Lock Worn

[merlinj79]

My (original) KT lock is on it's last legs.

I'll probably stick with KT, since I cannot store or park the trailer at my house so it's hard to do major work on it to modify for another lock.

I can get a new one for about $500. I think I also need the striker plate in the door jamb. Can all of that be replaced with hand tools? Out of Doors Mart's website mentions possibly modifying an internal pin with a grinder? Is that required/recommended?

I could also buy all of the available replacement parts (less than $500) for the KT, rebuild my old one, and hope that's good enough. ODM's website mentions drilling holes in a shaft. I assume I could remove the KT and take it home to work on. Any idea if a rebuild is a big PITA, keeping in mind I have no machine tools at the storage facility?

[Lumatic]

I know you said you want to keep the KT but, Inland RV has a non KT replacement for a lot less. I think it requires a little modification. They also have the striker plate. Yes you can do the KT or replacement work with hand tools.

[DryFly]

Are you sure the KT is close to toast? I pulled out the lock off my 72 Argosy and did a thorough clean up, put it back together and all is good. These are really simple mechanisms and therefore if something wears out it should be pretty easy to repair. If it's really gone, go with an aftermarket - probably better than the original pot metal lock, probably not worse.
Yes, hand tools are all that's needed, basically a Phillips head screwdriver and a small slot head for prying (gently). The strike plate is nothing special, you can pick one up and any hardware store and modify it with a dremmel tool to fit.

[merlinj79]

OK, thanks. Ordered the cyclinder/key and a few cheap springs and will try to rehab it.

[NavyCorpsman]

I had quite a time getting my Keeler lock back in order, but I did. Vintage trailer supply has NOS key cylinders with 2 keys and the Striker bolt assembly. They also have a Heavy Duty door pull latch.
I had to modify (cut and weld) the Striker to make it work, and grind a bit here and here, but it works. The replacement kit at ODM and others requires a backing plate. Kinda ugly and chinchy looking for my taste.
The Lock is easy enough to disassemble and clean.....I would do that first.
TJDonahoe here on the forums is a lock guru and may have what you need to make it right.

[merlinj79]

OK, got the lock out of the trailer and all cleaned up. It's all pretty pristine for 40+ years old, so I'm going to lube it up and install the new lock cylinder.

While cleaning I left most of it assembled but did pull out the vertical locking shaft. A small ball bearing fell out too...anybody know how that gets re-installed? It's part number 380635 on this ODM parts list...

1970 to77 Airstream Lock : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!

I didn't see the spring that goes with it fall out, although I do have a new ball & spring if needed. The ODM diagram is not clear on exactly where it goes?

[merlinj79]

figured it out...

The spring and ball are accessed via a tiny allen screw on the side of the housing (same side that faces the doorjamb).

[Gearheart]

Originally Posted by merlinj79

figured it out...

The spring and ball are accessed via a tiny allen screw on the side of the housing (same side that faces the doorjamb).

Good on you. that spring and ball are critical to holding the locking pin in place. Grooves in the vertical pin are detent stops. Someone had my lock apart and did not replace the ball. As a result the door locked itself with the key inside the trailer. Thank God for an open window so only a screen needed to be ruined to gain entry. I got a ball at a lock shop as the spring was still in the hole. Vintage Trailer Supply I believe has those parts as well.

[merlinj79]

Update: The lock is holding up well.

I installed a new strike plate at the same time, but had to dremel it out a bit to allow the latch bolt to fit in smoothly. A regular dremel wheel didn't get deep enough into the pocket, but I bought a drill-like grinding attachment and that did the trick (real quick too, compared to the grinding wheels). You'll probably need that tool if you install a strike plate.