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Old 12-09-2014, 05:27 PM   #1
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In floor radiant heat

How I love a warm floor!

All you need is a supply of hot water, which we all have, in the way of a hot water heater.
Ditching the nasty old Suburban furnace was a delight and warm cozy heat to boot.

I first glued down 1/2" rigid foam, then cut troughs for the 3/8" pex pipe with a modified soldering gun, snapped in the pex, tossed down a laminate floor and presto, warm toes,...
There's also significant foam insulation under the floor.

Now to be fair, this won't fully heat the coach in cold weather, there just isn't enough floor area.
Supplemental heat will be by automotive heater cores and muffin fans.
Water circulation in both the floor and the heaters is by lovely little 12 volt circulators.

So that I haven't created a whole new winterizing chore, the in floor loop is isolated from the potable hot water via the engine assist heat exchanger built into select Suburban hot water heaters.
This way I can run antifreeze in that loop and never need to drain.

Stay warm,..

Peter
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:31 PM   #2
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Great project. I had in floor heating in my house in Maine. It was almost like having free heat and so warm on the tootsies. The same gas heater provided both heating and unlimited hot water.
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:07 PM   #3
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Nice work.

What are you going to do if you want to camp and it's really cold?
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:14 PM   #4
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I'll also have two hot water heaters at 5000 BTU each.
All driven from a 12000 BTU hot water heater.
Plenty cozy.

Cheers
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:06 PM   #5
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What a great set up. How much propane does the heater take, seems to me the biggest problem, lots of propane use.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:10 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by slpiotro View Post
What a great set up. How much propane does the heater take, seems to me the biggest problem, lots of propane use.
Unless the water heater is terribly inefficient, it probably won't be any more propane use than the original furnace. Remember that BTU rating on the furnaces is based on how much propane it burns, not how much heat is transmitted into the cabin of the trailer.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:23 PM   #7
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I'm using a new Suburban 6 gal combination gas electric.
The concept is that I'll have electric heat when on shore power and gas while boondocking.
And only have one big heavy gas burning heater.
I suspect the Suburban hot water is pretty efficient, I prefer it over the Attwood as it has a longer heat tube.
As David said, I don't expect it will be any worse than a gas fired air furnace.

Cheers
Peter
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:50 PM   #8
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It would be interesting to see the real world usage. I expect that you also won't have to worry so much about draining your batteries overnight as with the forced air heater. It will also prob do a better job of keeping your pluming from freezing.
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:02 PM   #9
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The circulator I'm using only draws half an amp!
When it's really cold and I need the extra two heater cores I'll have a total of 1.3 amps load.

Peter
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:53 PM   #10
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Superb!
Now all our DW will want this ...
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:15 PM   #11
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Forgive me,..
What or who is a "DW"?
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:25 PM   #12
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Is it "Dear Wives"?
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Old 12-12-2014, 01:21 PM   #13
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A bonus would be that it is quieter than the forced air fan. Also put a heat run under the black grey and fresh water tanks to protect from frost.
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Old 12-12-2014, 02:06 PM   #14
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Ah the tank warming is included.

I put extra service bungs in the top of all the new tanks when I has them made. I'll put 20' of 3/8" tubing right in the tanks to warm them on critical nights.

The waste plumbing and valves are still vulnerable. they're wrapped in heat tape but then I need shore power or run the genny.

Which I just did crossing the continent, some cold nights on the Canadian prairies,...

I don't plan on any more really cold trips, done with cold,...

Peter
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