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Old 12-21-2014, 07:12 PM   #15
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Brilliant!
Is there a reason why you didn't run the radiant tubes under the furniture? Is it because it was already there?
You mentioned Canadian cold...how chilly are you talking? Colorado is not near as cold, but it's still cold here!
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:30 PM   #16
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As my primary intention is to heat the floor, there's no need to put pipe under the cabinets.
Even if I did, it wouldn't heat the living space very well.

Canada can get terribly cold, I just drove across from New York to Victoria British Columbia.
-25F in some spots.

But I won't ever be anywhere that cold again if I can help it.
That's why this winter I'm in Victoria where it rarely drops below freezing.

Peter
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:13 AM   #17
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Have you considered the extra weight you will be subjecting the frame to? Have your axles been upgraded?


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Old 01-04-2015, 01:42 AM   #18
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Hi Savage,

The tubing, water, pump and heater core weigh about 16 pounds.
The Suburban furnace I removed weighed 40 pounds.

But yes, I have installed new uprated axles for other much heavier elements of my build.

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Old 01-05-2015, 10:13 PM   #19
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Assuming you will be traveling with 'charged lines', factor in a pound per pint.


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Old 01-06-2015, 01:28 PM   #20
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This is a fascinating project! Curious where the heater cores are placed? Is it where the furnace used to be?
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:11 PM   #21
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Most interesting. I think the European Airstreams come with factory hydronic in floor heat IIRC.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:55 PM   #22
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Darryl,

I have two heater cores, one in the bathroom, directed down onto the slate floor and another in the galley. Both are within 18" of the water heater.
I'll have a more detailed report soon with pictures,...

Peter
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArgosyRover View Post
I first glued down 1/2" rigid foam, then cut troughs for the 3/8" pex pipe with a modified soldering gun.....
Wow, I bet that smelled good! (Not!!)

Great project! I'll keep that in mind.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:12 PM   #24
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Are the pumps controlled by thermostat? How are the fans for the heater cores activated?
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:09 PM   #25
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Hi Peter. I'm very interested in your project and am looking forward to seeing some photos.

The frame for my 57 is ready for paint and then the new floor. I like what your doing. I am considering radiant heat you give me inspiration.

Many of the trailers I've seen in Euorpe are heated this way
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Old 01-11-2015, 06:51 PM   #26
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Hi Darryl,

Yes, I put both the 12v circulator and the 12v muffin fans on a basic 220 heater bimetal thermostat.
I'd like to work out a delay for the fans so they don't blow cold at first, but it's not a big issue.


Brad,
I've only got the pumps and controls test fitted, a bit of a mess actually, I'll get it tidied and post some pictures.

There are a few things I've yet to work out.
I have two zones, bathroom and galley, with two pumps, I need check valves to avoid backflow that misses the hot water heater. I haven't been able to find check valves with soft enough springs. The ones I've sourced limit my flow terribly.

I'm disappointed with the effectiveness of the "motor assist" coil in the Suburban hot water heater.
I get very good performance running the potable water from the water heater through the heating system, but I really want to have a separate, antifreeze loop for it. Might have to look at a separate heat exchanger.


Peter
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