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Old 11-18-2014, 08:51 PM   #29
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What provision is there for the grey/black tanks for freezing conditions? I am not sure what modifications (if any) have/were made to our trailer but see no ducting through the floor to vent warm air to them. When I replaced the copper plumbing with pex, there was a length of copper running under the floor from one side to the other for the center bathroom. It had frozen. When I ran the Pex, I put it all above the floor. Its hard for me to see the meager amount of insulation in the belly pan doing enough to prevent a gray tank from freezing without putting a heat source into or around it.

Would Inca install plug in heaters similar to a water feeder? Just a thought. Would need to be too much of a draw on power would it?


I have a center bath as well, and like you, the water line runs from the closet under the floor to the kitchen/bath. How did you run it above the floor without it being a tripping hazard?


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Old 11-18-2014, 08:57 PM   #30
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Inland Andy asks the correct question. This cold wave has us at 5 degrees this morning. We Minnesotans are always thinking about heat! On my Trade Wind, I routed an under floor 4" duct to my insulated tank "box" so the tanks and valves receive warm air. I even routed a cold air return back to the furnace cabinet area so I didn't deadhead the furnace fan. This is the way my 86 is built. When the furnace runs, my tanks are warm.

Airstreams are built for 4 season camping. Water storage tanks are an important consideration.

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I'm curious how you terminated the cold air return at the furnace? Also, is a return necessary given how loosely the area around the tanks seems sealed?


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Old 11-19-2014, 06:15 AM   #31
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Suburban requires something like a 10 by 12 inch opening in front of their furnace so the thing can draw "cold" air into the heater. So I simply terminated my cold air return in the wardrobe / pantry closet across from the furnace. Then I installed a vent grate in the lower part of the door.

My waste water tank "cover", "pan", "box" surrounding the tanks is insulated and pretty tight around the tanks. And I'm dumping a full 4" duct into that cavity (more than some recommend, but I bought a NT30 which is too big for my trailer.) I needed the waste water tank duct to meet the requirement of at least 36 square inches of warm air ducting out of the furnace. You can't damp these furnaces down or they will overheat and quit. So I decided to exhaust the warm air out of the tank cavity and back to the furnace area so it could recirculate the air.

I'll probably have the warmest waste water tank cavity in the campground, more than necessary and a waste of good propane. But I figure it will radiate some heat into the bathroom floor which might be nice.

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Old 11-19-2014, 06:21 AM   #32
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I have a center bath as well, and like you, the water line runs from the closet under the floor to the kitchen/bath. How did you run it above the floor without it being a tripping hazard?


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I ran them around the perimeter of the unit. The rear had been modified previously and I had removed everything from it and before re-building I put in the pex. The hardest part (for me) was understanding the original water flow plan and then duplicating it with the new configuration. My biggest (unknown at the time) concern was running the Pex too close to the furnace/water heater as it get pretty hot there, but I just bought some cheap welding mat to lay over the parts that need it. In hindsight, its likely not an issue, but its done now.
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:26 AM   #33
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Bex, look at your furnace and count the ducts. Most have three or more attached to the furnace housing. See if you can find one that travels under the floor.

David
As I recall, there is one on the left, one on the right and unless there is one underneath, thats all I have. I will go take another look when it gets light.
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:58 PM   #34
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Thanks dbj216. Sounds like you've got a great setup and don't have to worry no matter the temps.


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Old 11-19-2014, 06:59 PM   #35
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Sounds like a good plan Bex. With that much additional water line, I guess you were able to set it up to gravity drain without any issue. I may have to give that a try when I get around to updating my old lines...


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Old 11-20-2014, 05:16 PM   #36
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Sounds like a good plan Bex. With that much additional water line, I guess you were able to set it up to gravity drain without any issue. I may have to give that a try when I get around to updating my old lines...


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Not sure gravity feed out of the trailer does work.
Last few years I blew them out with my airline which I subsequently read it was not a great idea as it can damage the Town water inlet regulator.
Does make me wonder if a person can add a tee and a ball valve in the line and run the pump to get the water out of the coach. With the faucets shut off, that might work. Maybe just making it too complicated.
This year I circulated RV antifreeze, poured some in the toilet, down the toilet and the shower and sink drains.
I guess we have kind of hijacked this thread a little, but I guess its related, well, maybe a little.
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:53 PM   #37
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Hate to high jack but while I'm restoring a "65 26" I would sure like a compact propane fire place type heater instead of furnace, the noise is like a turbine.
I saw one that was too big yesterday and heavy (about 1'x2' and cast iron)....but it
had a fan that I could adapt a duct to the tanks.
Of course I'd have to provide outside air and a through side or roof exhaust.
Any one have a good idea?
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:14 PM   #38
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On my 28 center bath, where would it have been ducted Andy?
From looking back from the register, my '76 28 center-bath Argosy appears to have a rectangular sheet-metal duct that runs under the floor from curbside to a register under the shower on the streetside. I'm going to run the PEX lines in that as well (even if I have to build a little bigger duct) to avoid the 18' of extra line that currently runs around the back of the trailer to supply the bathroom, so I won't have to waste so much water to pull up hot water in the bathroom. I haven't been into the belly pan there, but since the gray and black tanks are near that duct I've assumed there are outlets in it within the belly pan to warm them.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:42 PM   #39
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From looking back from the register, my '76 28 center-bath Argosy appears to have a rectangular sheet-metal duct that runs under the floor from curbside to a register under the shower on the streetside. I'm going to run the PEX lines in that as well (even if I have to build a little bigger duct) to avoid the 18' of extra line that currently runs around the back of the trailer to supply the bathroom, so I won't have to waste so much water to pull up hot water in the bathroom. I haven't been into the belly pan there, but since the gray and black tanks are near that duct I've assumed there are outlets in it within the belly pan to warm them.
Really good point about wasted water. I never thought about that, at all.
Ah, so I wonder if thats a duct running from the closet to the bathroom that I pulled the old copper out of? There was no register though, although there is a register and its been ducted through the (closet) door into the hallway. But I dont see anything in the bathroom. I wonder if it could it be under the vanity and I just never noticed it.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:24 PM   #40
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I wonder how sdbraverman is doing on his bathroom rebuild? He is likely finding all the problems typical of leaky Airstreams. It's a big project and might take him all winter.

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