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Old 11-12-2015, 05:35 AM   #1
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1979 Argosy Minuet 6.7 Metre
Anywhere , South Carolina
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Fridge Removal

I have a 79 Minuet 6.7 with a non-working fridge that needs to be removed to get checked out. It will be replaced with an electric one temporarily, or permanently if the original is junk. I'd love to have step by step instructions, but any advice to get me started will be much appreciated. I'm not looking to gut and rebuild the trailer, yet...just want to fix what doesn't work so we can enjoy using it.
Luke
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Old 11-12-2015, 05:49 AM   #2
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Suggest you removed the outside vent and look in with a headlamp. They are usually secured by several screws on the bottom at the rear of the frame. Also remove the front trim piece and look for additional screws.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:52 AM   #3
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Just a thought or two

I don't know your financial situation nor your camping habits…but…

I would do the math on money, effort, and time.

The cost of temporary electric fridge ( and time spent TRYING to find one that fits in the given space, or custom carpentry trying to make an electric LOOK like it fits…added to the cost of repairing the old propane fridge could bring you within a few hundred dollars of the cost of a new propane fridge.

An electric fridge brings down the value and usability of a camper IMHO

I know some have older fridges that work fine, but 44 years for a fridge is pushing it
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:56 AM   #4
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I am not sure about your 79 or Argosy specific details but in 70s Airstreams in addition to being secured to the floor the fridges are secured to the cabinetry and bulkheads by about a zillion screws. You may need to remove the counter and may need to do some disassembly to access the screws attaching the cabinetry to the sides of the fridge.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:34 AM   #5
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I assumed his temporary electric fridge would just be a $100 dorm style unit sitting in the hole.
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Old 11-12-2015, 10:08 AM   #6
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You have a point about a dorm fridge only costing $100

I think that $100 plus the cost of repairing a 44 year old fridge, would at least make me think about a new one. The repair kits are almost $300, plus the coolant? plus labor?
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Old 11-12-2015, 10:53 AM   #7
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If you decide to replace the fridge with a RV fridge it is not likely an exact fit replacement will be available. That leaves 2 choices: install a smaller fridge or modify your cabinetry.

Your oem fridge does not need to be removed to be "checked out".
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:16 AM   #8
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Lumatic made, and raises a good point

There are two easy diagnostic procedures that can be performed without taking the fridge out.

#1 Turn it on…see if it gets cold ( you did that )

#2 Open the access door. Look for oozing greenish gold toxic ammonia gas, and massive quantities of rust on the coil and pipes.

Next…find someone who will work on them. Ask their hourly rate. Ask for a guestimate of how long it will take and how much parts would be.

I had a friendship, and respect for my restoration guy ( Ron at South Jersey RV ) He said. " You don't have to replace your fridge…but I'm taking it out ". BTW mine was leaking, and still could freeze eggs and milk set on less than 1/2
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:33 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I have checked inside the access door for bolts or screws to the floor. It looks like the bottom of the fridge incorporates two runners. I think I found one screw through one of the runners to the floor, totally inaccessible with a screw driver. I checked again and had another look and another. I haven't figured any way to remove the front trim panel?? I have read about rolling the fridge over and over to recirculate the fluids; I didn't have that in mind when I unhitched the trailer and the jack post with a flat plate attached, slid off the 8x8 block and continued almost three feet in the gravel drive alongside a drop off. It was a very close call. I figure it is better to take the fridge out of the trailer before rolling it around the yard. I already have a very nice electric unit to fit the space. I would never recoup my investment in a new RV fridge coupled with the necessary carpentry. I only camp 4-5 times a year and always with hookups. It looks like many are happy not to have propane on board anyway. Friday is the day I go in with a dremel tool, power drill, screw drivers and flat pry bar, and work lights and get the beast out.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke55 View Post
I have read about rolling the fridge over and over to recirculate the fluids; I didn't have that in mind when I unhitched the trailer and the jack post with a flat plate attached, slid off the 8x8 block and continued almost three feet in the gravel drive alongside a drop off. It was a very close call. I figure it is better to take the fridge out of the trailer before rolling it around the yard.
The process is called "burping". Never did it but as I understand the process you stand the fridge upside down for a day or so. I agree with not inverting the trailer even though removing the fridge takes some time. One more thing, if you buy a new fridge make sure it will fit through the door first.
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Old 11-26-2015, 08:13 AM   #11
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I drilled out several rivets and removed screws to get the upper cabinet out of the way in a couple sections. Then wrestled with the countertop to remove it before taking out more screws to jiggle the side cabinet out of the way. After exposing the bare fridge, I could deal with the screwed in angle plates anchoring it to the floor and wall. What was really holding the fridge in tight was the very good adhesive putty generously slathered all along the edges to seal the gaps. I had to cut this away with a dremel tool then out she came. Leaving the venting tunnel for now.
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Old 11-28-2015, 08:29 AM   #12
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Most of these fridges come out from the front with finding and removing the screws in the access area the main problem. A pancake screw driver can sometimes get those screws that are in cramped spaces too small for even a 'stubby' screw driver. Removal of the counter top should not be necessary. You will likely need to use some wood or aluminum to fill in sides where a new fridge leaves gaps. Dometic has a chart that tells you what will fit in the space the old fridge occupied, but don't expect it to just set into place and seal up like the old one did.

Odds of 'burtping' the fridge and having it work aren't good.
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:05 AM   #13
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Just finishing remodel of my 6.7 minuet 1978. Loved the open space after removing the old cabinetry.
Took mine "total electric" and thrilled that I did... I hate propane!
Hope your turns out to be very special...
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Old 12-30-2015, 04:53 PM   #14
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Thanks paddle whisp. I haven't checked mine out yet, but how do you like the electric water heater vs the gas model? If I'm not satisfied, going with propane tankless.
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