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Old 10-19-2015, 10:39 AM   #43
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And if not I need to add a ground wire from the battery to the trailer body and or frame, clear of paint?
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:44 AM   #44
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I can't believe that wire is not there. It may just be that the connection is open, loose.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:03 PM   #45
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I'll do some checking after work for all of this...
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:46 PM   #46
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The AC white wire is neutral and not ground.
I would connect a wire from the - terminal of the converter to the trailer skin or chassis. Then check to see if everything works.


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Old 10-19-2015, 03:52 PM   #47
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Like Twinkie says, run a large gauge ( 8 or 10) wire from the negative connection bundle to the body of the trailer. Or find the original negative body ground and reconnect. Fun, isn't it?
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:07 PM   #48
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If that were to be a simple solution (and likely is), where is the ground or negative for all of the 12v circuits? Clearly I must not be seeing a wire somewhere. I bet the white ground that fed the Univolt and is now tied to the IOTA, should somehow be tied to the 12v ground, but again where to connect?? Aarrrrghh! (pirate for "dang it")
I think the white wire that "fed the univolt" was probably your negative return/ ground from the trailer wiring.
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:40 AM   #49
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Problem solved, thanks to all of the feedback from everyone. So the heavy white wire I was referring to feeds through the floor and out to the frame for a ground. It was originally connected to the univolt as the ground wire for the 12v system. When I ran a short wire from that to the negative post on the fuse block, BINGO! Lights and all kicked on. I had the white wire in the "Chassis Bonding Lug" on the IOTA near where the positive and negative outgoing ports are located. Does the ground wire need to be here at all or just to the fuse block? My thought was to add a short wire from the "Chassis Bonding Lug" to the negative terminal of the fuse block.

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Old 10-20-2015, 02:41 PM   #50
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Shouldn't hurt to be sure all is grounded.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:11 PM   #51
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My recommendation, connect the original heavy white wire that goes to the frame to the negative bus on the fuse block. Connect a short wire from the iota ground to the negative bus. Electric ally it's essentially the same as what you've done but provides better more independent circuit control. I'm pretty sure the iota installation manual says to ground to the frame, but with how the trailer is wired going to the negative bus is exactly the same since the shell is used as a ground on the AS. Not the same in a SOB with fiberglass or non metallic shell.
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:13 PM   #52
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Not to be a contrarian, but the case ground on the converter, just like the much heavier case grounds on large inverters, should always have it's own direct singular connection to the frame. It's there for safety in the event of standard ground loss.

If you connect a case ground to a negative bus and there is a problem with the main ground connection at that bus, the case ground will be ineffective. Far better (and code compliant) to run a separate case grounding cable from the device directly to the frame.
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:27 AM   #53
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One last question (for now), with the heavy ground wire run to the converter and adding a second ground from the fuse block to the frame, is it within code to connect both grounds to the same spot on the frame? Or do I have to have a separate ground point for each line? There is a heavy duty connector on the frame that would be nice to tie in to. Thanks again.
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:57 AM   #54
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I don't think you can have too many grounds. Think of the grounds as where the flow of current has to go to make things work. Current flows from positive to negative so the ground(s) collect the current flow. One of the most aggravating electrical problems is to have a poor ground in a 12V circuit and the body of the Argosy is the ground for a bunch of stuff.
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:54 AM   #55
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One last question (for now), with the heavy ground wire run to the converter and adding a second ground from the fuse block to the frame, is it within code to connect both grounds to the same spot on the frame? Or do I have to have a separate ground point for each line? There is a heavy duty connector on the frame that would be nice to tie in to. Thanks again.

Typically, each frame grounding point should have it's own connection at the frame.........with a single wire in each connector.


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