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Old 10-08-2015, 12:36 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by jennandal View Post
2nd one does not work. But reading through the first link, the fuse block is installed between the IOTA and the Battery? How does this affect the charger's ability to alternate between charge, float, etc. and does that affect the DC current going to the DC outlets? Sorry, but the AC and DC combo is a bit new to me.
The battery and converter 12 volt lines both get connected to the fuse block, as long as your positives are on the positive side and negatives on the negative side it will have no effect on charging modes feeding 12v outlets or circuits. You can even connect them both on the top and bottom posts and they'll essentially be wired directly together feeding the fuse block.
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:43 AM   #30
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Any idea which model # of the Blue Sea boxes you are referencing? Is it the 5026, 5029, or 5032? They all look the same on their website and the descriptors don't help those of us with limited electrical experience.
It's the 5026, link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1444282802&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=blue+sea+5026&dpPl=1&dpID =51Wn79biAwL&ref=plSrch#featureBulletsAndDetailBul lets_secondary_view_div_1444282823039

It's nice having the negative terminals on it for connecting the return and ground lines. Also leaves room for expansion.
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:54 AM   #31
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And, looking at the diagram in the thread, do you have wire colors to go with it? This is a 75 Argosy 24'.
I'll try to get a good link for second one.

I don't have exact colors, but in general if it's colored it'll be positive, if it's white it'll be negative. Except the battery where black will be battery negative.
On mine there were 5 house circuits with positive wires being blue, brown, yellow, pink, and purple. They should be the wires connected to glass fuses on the old univolt. May be another blue from the tow vehicle charge.

Keep in mind there will be a small separate fuse panel where the umbilical wires from the tow vehicle to brake lights and other signal lights go through. Those stay separate from your new fuse panel.

Don't forget you need a fuse or breaker on the positive line from the battery to the fuse panel.
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:59 AM   #32
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Hope this works now

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f219...er-133233.html
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:00 AM   #33
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In my '74 there is no fuse panel in the coach for the exterior lights ie brake, turn, marker etc. the fuses in the TV protect these circuits.


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Old 10-18-2015, 11:08 AM   #34
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Got everything wired up, and fuse block receives and emits about 13 volts as it should. So why are none f the 12v lights working?? All outgoing wires have 12-13v at the fuse block. Is there any other fuses on the 12v system?
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Old 10-18-2015, 12:07 PM   #35
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In DC power there are only 2 things that can effect ALL items in a circuit. Positive and negative sides of the circuit.

If you are seeing 12 volts at the fuse panel but not at a light fixture is there a separate ground wire to the panel that you are using to complete the circuit?

If that is the case then the trailer body itself is not grounded to the battery. Check the trailer body ground connection. Look for it on the frame
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Old 10-18-2015, 12:37 PM   #36
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And some folks wonder why I insist on NOT using frame grounds and running all 12VDC circuits with positive to fuse block and negative to a single bus bar.

Never an issue with bad grounds this way and any bad circuit is easy to diagnose.


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Old 10-18-2015, 07:52 PM   #37
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In your post #10, you put a battery in and, when connected up, the 12V system worked. The 12V system didn't appear to have a ground problem at that time. Your fuse block also seems to have been working at that time. That suggests that the problem is near the new converter and the new fuse block. If the converter is feeding the fuse board 13.5V, then you need to check to see that 13.5V is getting into the circuits. Take a reading on one of the outgoing wires using the ground from the converter or other convenient, dependable ground. If the wire out has no voltage, the power isn't getting past the lead in. Big fuse there? Blown? Missing? That's what it sounds like. There is usually a gatekeeper fuse that cuts all the 12V flow before the fuse block gets involved. It is in the + line close or in the new fuse block. If there is power to the outgoing wire(s), then you have a ground problem so check to see that you have connected the grounds together correctly: All go to the same bus which worked before you made changes.

Not to make this simplistic, my Argosy had a Univolt and a separate fuse block nearby. The fuse block had a bus where the Univolt, the battery, and the TV positive feed all met and fed through a fuse into the fuse block. The negative ground was also on a bus where the Univolt, battery, and TV ground were combined. Putting in the new Intellipower was a matter of unplugging the Univolt, disconnecting the two wires from the Univolt to the busses, taking the Univolt out, putting the Intellipower unit in, and running the wires from the Intellipower to their appropriate busses. Plugged the Intellipower in and that was it. Yes, I used the old fuse block with the glass fuses. It had the busses and fuses already sorted out, a big plus. If it gives up, I will put in a modern unit.
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:58 PM   #38
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Think the others hit on the problem. Make sure you hooked up the negatives or there isn't a path for current flow.
If there was a negative return wire and you accidentally hooked it up to the positive side there won't be any voltage difference for flow either.
Also try grounding shell to negative terminal to see if that fixes it.
Picture of your new wiring may help.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:21 AM   #39
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I'll get some pictures soon and post. In the meantime, I have everything set up just as it was with the univolt but with new converter and fuse block. Main frame ground is to the IOTA and positive and negative are correctly feeding to the fuse block positive and negative. The battery is fed off of a positive terminal and negative terminal from the fuse block and is receiving the correct charging state at a variable of 12-13.4 volts. The other fuses leading to the 12v wiring (lights, etc.) are all hot and receiving the same 12-13.4 volts depending on the charging state of the IOTA. This leads me to believe there is a fault in the grounding of the 12v system. But, as best I can tell, there was not a ground or negative wire for the 12v system originally in the univolt so there has to be a ground connection somewhere else. All of the wires from the univolt are in place on the current setup. The obvious lines to the battery, plus a heavy blue line for the car battery, and three other wires (yellow, purple, and reddish) all on positive fuses just like they were on the univolt. Is there a known wire I should be fishing for in the ever-so-slightly cramped quarters back there? Thanks in advance for all of the help, you guys are great!
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:38 AM   #40
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Would it be easier to make a new ground connection in a convenient location?
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:37 AM   #41
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If that were to be a simple solution (and likely is), where is the ground or negative for all of the 12v circuits? Clearly I must not be seeing a wire somewhere. I bet the white ground that fed the Univolt and is now tied to the IOTA, should somehow be tied to the 12v ground, but again where to connect?? Aarrrrghh! (pirate for "dang it")
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:19 AM   #42
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Do not connect the 110 volt AC white ground wire to the trailer 12 volt DC system.

Your 12 volt ground is the trailer body itself, there is no wire. The trailer body is tied to the battery negative terminal by a wire from the body or frame.

While unplugged from shore power take voltmeter, set to DC voltage, from the positive battery terminal to the trailer body and or frame, clear of paint. If the body is grounded you will see 12 volts on the meter.
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