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Old 10-03-2015, 09:15 PM   #15
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Get rid of the Univolt, replace it with a modern multistage converter - Intellipower, Boondocker are 2 favored here on the forum - and install a battery. You may also need to replace the fuse panel at the same time. I didn't replace the fuse panel when I installed my new Intellipower, and recently paid the price for that oversite. Life will be good and no hum. There's a LOT of copper in the winding of the Univolt so be sure to recyle.
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Old 10-03-2015, 09:59 PM   #16
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Junk that Battery Boiler and save a bunch of weight and dirty DC .

I went with an Intela Power with smart pendent and a Gel Cell Battery .
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:25 PM   #17
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The converter is not designed to carry the load you placed on it. You should never ever run without a charged battery. I suspect you fried the converter.
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:13 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by cabinetmaker View Post
The converter is not designed to carry the load you placed on it. You should never ever run without a charged battery. I suspect you fried the converter.
Sorry, but your statement is not accurate.

Modern switch mode converters like those from Progressive Dynamics are designed to be fully operational WITHOUT A BATTERY. Their primary purpose is to provide 12VDC (nominal) power for the operation of the 12VDC loads in the trailer. Battery charging is a secondary function. No battery is necessary as a 'filter' like the older ferro-resonant converters AKA the dreaded Univolt!!!

The only legal reason a battery is required in the trailer is to activate the trailer brakes in the event of a catastrophic trailer separation from the tow vehicle that activates the trailer break-away switch.

Practically speaking, you need a battery for boondocking or operating almost everything in the trailer that needs 12VDC control voltage. If you intend to maintain your trailer as a permanent or semi-permanent installation, no battery is necessary while parked for the long term. If you put it back on the road, you surely need one then.
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:03 AM   #19
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Lewster nailed most of the answer as he usually does nail it.
He just forgot to tell you that your univolt is dead. Putting the battery on is providing all your 12v now until it drains down and dies . If univolt was only putting out 1v before when you attach the battery the battery voltage is what you're now reading. Univolt will provide power without a battery in the loop, at least if it's working!
Don't leave the battery connected to long without something to charge it, you don't want to fully discharge it as this damages the battery.
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:09 AM   #20
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Since I'm on my phone and can't see year or model trailer, are your fuses in the univolt or do you have a separate 12v fuse panel?
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Old 10-06-2015, 06:47 PM   #21
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1975 Argosy 24
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I bought a IOTA DLS-55 after reading a lot of the threads on here. However, I have not been able to figure out the wiring. Obviously the red and black battery cables feed into the pos/neg slots and the ground feeds into the IOTA ground slot. But what do I do about the multi-colored wires for the Argosy? Do I need to add a fuse panel similar to what's on the original converter? Thanks again everyone for al the help!!
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:22 PM   #22
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I bought a IOTA DLS-55 after reading a lot of the threads on here. However, I have not been able to figure out the wiring. Obviously the red and black battery cables feed into the pos/neg slots and the ground feeds into the IOTA ground slot. But what do I do about the multi-colored wires for the Argosy? Do I need to add a fuse panel similar to what's on the original converter? Thanks again everyone for al the help!!
Yes you'll need a new fuse panel, though I have seen people cut the old one out of the univolt and keep using it it's definitely not recommended. Personally I recommend a blue sea systems fuse panel with a built in negative bus and 50a manual reset 12v circuit breaker between the fuse panel and battery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1444177227&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=blue+sea+systems+fuse+blo ck&dpPl=1&dpID=51Wn79biAwL&ref=plSrch

I'll dig up some threads I helped others through the swap on.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:31 PM   #23
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Here's a couple threads:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ck-135473.html
and this one http://www.airforums.com/forums/f219...er-133233.html
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:28 PM   #24
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Here's another great product if you are replacing your entire AC/DC power center: PD5000 Series AC/DC Power Distribution Panels

You can also get these with an integrated Progressive Dynamics Intellipower smart converter. That unit is called the 'MightyMini'
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:15 AM   #25
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I'm finishing the renovation of another Rv, '78 Argosy...
We replaced the old univolt with a
WFCO 8700 series 35 amp RV power center converter
On sale at RV Parts, RV Accessories RV Supplies Priced Low
I operate ac/dc by electricity. No battery.
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:27 AM   #26
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2nd one does not work. But reading through the first link, the fuse block is installed between the IOTA and the Battery? How does this affect the charger's ability to alternate between charge, float, etc. and does that affect the DC current going to the DC outlets? Sorry, but the AC and DC combo is a bit new to me.
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:29 AM   #27
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And, looking at the diagram in the thread, do you have wire colors to go with it? This is a 75 Argosy 24'.
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Old 10-07-2015, 08:25 AM   #28
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Any idea which model # of the Blue Sea boxes you are referencing? Is it the 5026, 5029, or 5032? They all look the same on their website and the descriptors don't help those of us with limited electrical experience.
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