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Old 08-24-2006, 09:28 PM   #1
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1975 28' Argosy 28
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Electric tongue jack help

Hey Y'all,

I need some guidance on the power for the electric tongue jack. mine works great with the AC power plugged in but will not work on 12Vdc if I unplug it from shore power. I checked the battery, and I cannot get 12V across the posts. I can however, get 13.75V when I go from POS to chassis. I don't have a schematic for the power system. So I am not sure how to go about troubleshooting this problem. I did find a blown fuse in the panel but I changed it and still same thing. I read somewhere on another thread that there might be some kind of switch that you shut off to save the battery or something like that. I have the Fortron Power Inc. 32A converter and had no luck finding a schematic online. If someone has any idea please help me out & thanks for any help! Maybe a battery change will do it?

"T"
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Old 08-24-2006, 10:55 PM   #2
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1962 19' Globetrotter
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Rivet electric jack help

check the ground wire and fuse to the electric jack . my 2000 safari and i went through this
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Old 08-25-2006, 05:29 AM   #3
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look for a large glass fuse on the negative line coming from the converter. they are usually within a foot of the unit on the outside of the box.

don't rely on a visual check, test it with a ohmeter.

if not, a new battery may be in order.

john
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Old 08-25-2006, 05:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVnDixie
Hey Y'all,

I need some guidance on the power for the electric tongue jack. mine works great with the AC power plugged in but will not work on 12Vdc if I unplug it from shore power. I checked the battery, and I cannot get 12V across the posts. I can however, get 13.75V when I go from POS to chassis. I don't have a schematic for the power system. So I am not sure how to go about troubleshooting this problem. I did find a blown fuse in the panel but I changed it and still same thing. I read somewhere on another thread that there might be some kind of switch that you shut off to save the battery or something like that. I have the Fortron Power Inc. 32A converter and had no luck finding a schematic online. If someone has any idea please help me out & thanks for any help! Maybe a battery change will do it?

"T"
T, if you are measuring directly on the battery posts, not a connection to the post but directly on the posts, with a DC voltmeter and get 0 volts, then you have a very dead battery, probably shorted cell(s),......simple as that! If you are getting 13.8 volts from the positive battery terminal to chassie ground, then your Coverter is ON and that is what you are reading. You have also probably blown the replacement fuse, again, that is in the negative lead of your defective battery. Bill
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:15 AM   #5
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Well, I have done further testing (And I am using a volt/ohmmeter) I do have a dead battery. Something like 1.26Vdc with the cables removed. I measured from the negative post to ground with the positive cable still attatched and got 14.95Vdc. And then I measured across the posts again with the positive cable attatched, and got 13.65Vdc. That's when I took the positive cable off and measured across the posts with no cables attatched and got the 1.26Vdc. So determined the battery has bit the dust. I hooked up a new battery and the glass fuse y'all were talking about inside by the converter in line with the negative cable blew (I had checked that fuse beforehand with the ohmmeter and tested good). So I have stopped there for now as it was getting late at night and just put the cables back on the old battery to keep them off the metal floor of the box. I am puzzled. Maybe have a wire grounding to the frame somewhere? But wouldn't that blow the fuse on the + side of the system? I guess i'll have to run that rabbit all the way thru the wiring and see if there are any shorts or ground issues with broken insulation etc. Thanks for the responses! any more ideas? Thanks again!

"T"
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:18 AM   #6
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The circuit is very simple. From the battery,and the dc supply,
throught a fuse and directly to the switch on the electric jack.
If you do not have a voltage reading of at least 12VDC at the switch then the battery is suspect. If you are removing the jack cover, first remove the fuse lest you blow the fuse.

Rae Burlington,Ont.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:36 AM   #7
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Turn the Converter OFF!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RVnDixie
Well, I have done further testing (And I am using a volt/ohmmeter) I do have a dead battery. Something like 1.26Vdc with the cables removed. I measured from the negative post to ground with the positive cable still attatched and got 14.95Vdc. And then I measured across the posts again with the positive cable attatched, and got 13.65Vdc. That's when I took the positive cable off and measured across the posts with no cables attatched and got the 1.26Vdc. So determined the battery has bit the dust. I hooked up a new battery and the glass fuse y'all were talking about inside by the converter in line with the negative cable blew (I had checked that fuse beforehand with the ohmmeter and tested good). So I have stopped there for now as it was getting late at night and just put the cables back on the old battery to keep them off the metal floor of the box. I am puzzled. Maybe have a wire grounding to the frame somewhere? But wouldn't that blow the fuse on the + side of the system? I guess i'll have to run that rabbit all the way thru the wiring and see if there are any shorts or ground issues with broken insulation etc. Thanks for the responses! any more ideas? Thanks again!

"T"
T, it will be a much simpler job to troubleshoot your DC system if you will turn your Converter OFF! If it has a switch, turn it OFF. If it doesn't, then you will have to unplug fron the AC power or trip your AC circuit breakers. With the Converter OFF, disconnect the battery, then you can measure from the black cable terminal to ground and you should get 0 ohms after you replace the fuse. Then turn all DC powered items OFF or unplug them.... and then you can measure from the Red cable terminal to ground and you should have a very high resistance, essentially OPEN. If you get a low resistance or 0 ohms, then you have a leak or short somewhere on the 12 volt supply line that feeds all DC circuits inside the trailer.....or possibly a DC powered something is still ON or still connected to the DC line and shorted. Bill
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Old 12-31-2006, 06:46 PM   #8
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I figured out what was wrong with the Tongue Jack! The battery system was wired wrong and I put them in the right places and Viola! the jack will now work on battery power too! P.O. had the positive wire terminated on the ground bar and the negative on the positive side. The charging cables were backward and it ruined the battery.
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Old 12-31-2006, 09:54 PM   #9
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There is a thermal breaker on my 71. It Will trip with low voltage. If it is intermittent it may be tripping. low voltage from the Batt. or under sized wire could cause it to trip. Just food for thought.
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