drain valve on fresh water tank: '79 Argosy 6.0

[campman]

In the realm of dumb questions: For the first time, I decided to sanitize my fresh water tank. Filled it half full. Decided to drain. The small plastic valve (under the roadside seat) turns well...but no direction seems to open the drain. I know it must have been used previously as there is new plastic drain hose through the underbelly. I ran a brush up the hose and it is clear. Any ideas out there will be more than welcome. If there is some sort of screen inside the tank, maybe it is clogged up, but I doubt it. Thanks a lot. As usual, I am counting on you 'forum'!!!

[overlander64]

Greetings Dan!

It may not be the valve, rather the drain tube that goes through the floor and exits the bellypan may be partially or fully blocked. Spiders, mud daubers, and their relatives like to frequent that tube; and it may also accummulate road spray as well in some environments. Even when working properly, the drain on the tank in my Minuet is VERY slow -- much slower than my Overlander which has a brass valve assembly. I belive that the valve is supposed to be a 1/2 turn valve -- without double-checking my coach, I believe that the valve is open when the lever is parallel with the drain line. It can also help to open the fill drawer to permit greater access to pressure relief/venting.

Kevin

[campman]

Thanks Kevin: I had already brushed out the outlet tube and it is clean. Also, no one position of the valve handle allows the water to drain at all. I just get "drip, drip, drip". I think it might be some foreign matter stuck in the valve itself. If so, I can either siphon out the cleaning water....or run the pump and dump it that way. I am stumped. Thanks again, Dan

[samb]

I got a clogged drain working again by using "low pressure air". By that I mean I taped a section of tubing to the end of the drain line and blew (opposite of siphon) by mouth into it. I guess I broke up some calcium or hard water deposits near or in the valve. It drained much better and after several rinsings was ready to be sanitized with chlorine. You could probably use compressed air "gently". I would capture and inspect the drainings from your tank. Your next step will depend on what you find.
Worth a try, and the price is right.
Sam

[campman]

Wow! Thank goodness for the Forum and especially for guys like you, Sam, and Kevin. I will try the idea of air pressure, as I know the line is clear, having used a brush and a wire (which I can see from inside).
I did put city water in my lines, filled the hot water tank, and then disconnected the shorepower. Used the pump and emptied most of the tank that way for now.
I have a question (another one from an unlearned person!)....I ran the pump on battery, with shore power off and city water off. Water ran well for sure. Turned pump off and water runs as well as it did with the pump on. Is there something I am missing here? I thought the water would not run without shorepower unless the pump was running. Was all that pressure from "pre built up pressure",,,e.g. in the hot water tank or what???? I sure do need educating!!! Thanks, Dan

[campman]

OK...I hope you guys didn't laugh your heads off with my last post ...and I am not drinking!! I simply forgot that I DID have the city water pressure on all the time...so there. Stupid is as stupid does. Dan

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by campman

OK...I hope you guys didn't laugh your heads off with my last post ...and I am not drinking!! I simply forgot that I DID have the city water pressure on all the time...so there. Stupid is as stupid does. Dan

I don't think having the city water on would affect draining the tank. So what's the rest of the story? With the city water off does she drain?

[overlander64]

Greetings Dan!

Originally Posted by campman

Thanks Kevin: I had already brushed out the outlet tube and it is clean. Also, no one position of the valve handle allows the water to drain at all. I just get "drip, drip, drip". I think it might be some foreign matter stuck in the valve itself. If so, I can either siphon out the cleaning water....or run the pump and dump it that way. I am stumped. Thanks again, Dan

One thing you might try if you suspect hard water deposits partially blocking the valve would be to get as much of the sanitizing solution out as possible and then pour in one gallon of white vinegar and allow it to drip through the valve for 24 to 48 hours or until the vinegar has drained out -- this is a possiblility and if it works, generic white vinegar is usually quite inexpensive -- may be less than a new valve.

Kevin