Originally Posted by ajrose2
The handle does not lay flat... and you have to slam the door for it to latch... my mom wants to replace it
I had the same problem with the lock on our '74 Overlander. The handle not returning all the way toward the door was due to a broken spring. I ordered a replacement (Lever Spring 1110-0015)
from Out Of Doors Mart for $1.95 which fixed that problem.
Our door also didn't close properly. Slamming wouldn't work, we had to pull out on the handle as we closed it to get it to latch. That was caused by the spring that pushes out on the slide bolt being too stiff. I replaced the old spring with one that is less stiff and that fixed the closing problem.
The big problem I had in doing this was getting the spring pins out of the shaft that the handle rotates on. I accidentally broke part of the flange on the casting, the one part that is outrageously expensive. I made a plate of aluminum to cover the lock and hide the broken part. Now the lock doesn't look original, but it does look unique, and it works! (-:
I would not worry about whether the door can be locked by the original lock, in fact I'd suggest making it so the lock can't be locked, and use a deadbolt instead. I'm concerned about my door lock locking due to vibration on the road and then not being able to unlock it. The key cylinder on ours is very worn. Vintage Trailer Supply sells a deadbolt
that mounts in the wall and has a 3/8" bolt that goes into the door frame. I wasn't able to use that one because a deadbolt had been previously installed and the VTS one needs a larger setback. The hole cut into the doorframe was so large that it caused the door frame to break so it didn't close properly at the top. I ended up milling a new bolt for a standard deadbolt to fit a 3/8" hole in the door frame. I'm still working on fixing the door frame, on my first attempt I didn't get the curve right.