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Old 09-11-2014, 12:54 PM   #1
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DIY Winterization check

First, let me thank the Argosy/Airstream community for their contributions, it really helps.

Since I rebuilt the water system, including a water tank, I designed in a winterization kit, however, the replacement water tank had no facility for a drain.
So I just pumped it dry, or the point that switched the valve so I could pump the pink antifreeze through the pipes, (the water heater has already had its inline valves closed and it was drained).
Am I missing anything? I'm going to add some more RV anti-freeze to the traps to make sure.
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:25 PM   #2
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The only things I can think (may not apply to your trailer design) are ....

- make sure you have run pink stuff through the toilet and leave a goodly amount in the bowl to ensure the seal does not dry out.

- make sure you run some through the toilet rinse hose if so equipped. ( i missed that the first year we had the trailer - noes hose & spray head about $39!!)

- run both hot and cold taps in sinks and shower to run pink. don't forget galley rinse hose if equipped and also remove the carbon filter in the spout if equipped (or run pink stuff through it which I think is not recommended!)

- I briefly crack both of the bypass valves to the HW tank open for a split second to ensure than only pink stuff and not water is trapped in the valves.

- dont forget to crack open any outside faucets (if you have any) to run pink if you have any.

And finally, I briefly crack open the low point hot and cold drain taps under the trailer to ensure they run pink.

If I have a bit of antifreeze left (usually takes me close to 2 gallons) I split it between the traps in the shower, galley, and bathroom sinks to ensure they are well protected. I imagine the shower trap could be a real problem to get at if broken.

I think that is it!


Brian
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:12 PM   #3
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Make sure the toilet flush valve is thoroughly blown out and then antifreeze in it..... I always forget and consequently I am ALWAYS replacing the flush valve come Spring..... Im so consistent that I just figure that $35 into my yearly Airstream "budget"
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Old 09-11-2014, 04:08 PM   #4
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Are you going to introduce the anti freeze by connecting a hose to the pump or by pouring it into the "pumped dry freshwater tank"? If the latter you run the risk of greatly diluting the antifreeze as the tank will not be empty when you start. Remoe the input hose from the pump filter, if equipped, or from the pump if not and attach a short hose and pump the anti freeze in from that point.

Does your trailer have an "auto fill function"? If so flip the switch for a second while pumping in the anti freeze to make sure the solenoid as antifreeze.
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Old 09-12-2014, 07:28 AM   #5
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I bought a winterization kit from VTS.....
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:53 AM   #6
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I cover the toilet bowl under the seat with plastic wrap after winterizing. I have had the antifreeze evaporate over the course of the winter out of the toilet. This way, I have no worries.

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Old 09-12-2014, 10:01 AM   #7
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I just realized I need to run a bypass around the water heater, which is empty and is isolated by inline cutoff valves, which also isolates the downstream hot water lines. So it's down to Ace to buy some more sharkbites to run cold water line ( & anti freeze) to the hot water lines.
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:32 AM   #8
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Oh joy, I get to install sharkbites on a " wet" system! The fun just never ends.
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Old 09-12-2014, 11:29 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Are you going to introduce the anti freeze by connecting a hose to the pump or by pouring it into the "pumped dry freshwater tank"? If the latter you run the risk of greatly diluting the antifreeze as the tank will not be empty when you start. Remoe the input hose from the pump filter, if equipped, or from the pump if not and attach a short hose and pump the anti freeze in from that point.

Does your trailer have an "auto fill function"? If so flip the switch for a second while pumping in the anti freeze to make sure the solenoid as antifreeze.

What is " auto fill"? LaTortuga is 40 years old so very little is " auto", but to clarify, I installed that fitting at the pump Inlet for pumping pink thru the water lines....
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Old 09-24-2014, 02:37 PM   #10
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I completed the bypass and I have pink pouring from all faucets, hot & cold. However, the design of the hot water heater has a potential problem at the cold water input. It looks like a natural place for water to gather. I've drained the tank and the inputs are closed but I am trying to make sure....
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:45 PM   #11
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Yes there may be a section of pipe between the shut off and the tank that can still hold a small amount of water. If you have plastic piping that should not be a problem. If copper you may want to take a additional step to be sure the water from the bottom of the tank is below the input pipe. The water in that piping should flow out then.

What I do while the tank is draining is put a piece of 3/8 tubing into the tank so it falls to the bottom of the tank. The draining water will start a siphon and drain the water that would remain in the tank once the level reached the drain hole level.
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:45 AM   #12
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I avoided needing a water heater bypass by using the shower head lock out valve as my bypass. I ran pink through all the cold lines first, then I locked off the shower and set it halfway between hot and cold. The pink was now running backwards through the hot lines and I set the vanity and galley sinks to hot until the pink came through.
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:07 AM   #13
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I can see that working for the lines but have to ask if you then drain the 6 gallons of water still in the hot water heater?
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:23 AM   #14
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I blow the water out of the lines using a compressor and 70# of pressure. Helper opens and closes the facets to make sure all our cleaned out of water Including outside. I put Windshield Washer fluid in the P Traps, much cheaper and easier to find in my area. I do the same for the toilet. Water heater is by passed. That is it. Been doing same for over 40 years on all types of Rvs and never had a freeze up.
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:42 AM   #15
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I can see that working for the lines but have to ask if you then drain the 6 gallons of water still in the hot water heater?
ABSOLUTELY sorry I forgot to mention that. I have ball valve shut offs right at the hot tank, in and out, so both of them get closed and the tank drained.
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:19 AM   #16
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So, this is our first winter with our 2012 International 23d. I got all the water out and blew the lines out through the city water port but I didn't fill them with RV antifreeze as we are still trying to take a couple more trips. Will this be an issue?
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:43 AM   #17
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You still have water in the pump, toilet, and traps. If you are going to dry camp there is no reason not to go ahead and put the antifreeze in the water system.

You can still use the toilet, with bottled water, while dry camping just remember to put antifreeze in it at the end of the weekend.

You really don't have to worry about freezing till you will have a night, day and night below 30 degrees. A one night freeze above 25 degrees won't be enough to freeze things.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:37 PM   #18
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I talked to the Airstream Dealer Service Center today at ASNW and they said they don't run Antifreeze into the system when they do the service professionally. They said that they just add it to the P-Traps and the toilet and shower drains.
I don't think I'm going to run it into the lines unless someone has some first hand experience where they have met heartache by not having run it into the system.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:58 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Althea68 View Post
I talked to the Airstream Dealer Service Center today at ASNW and they said they don't run Antifreeze into the system when they do the service professionally. They said that they just add it to the P-Traps and the toilet and shower drains.
I don't think I'm going to run it into the lines unless someone has some first hand experience where they have met heartache by not having run it into the system.
I can't imagine that a thorough job of blowing the lines out wouldn't do the job. If there are only a few drops of water laying in the bottom of the pipe, and it freezes, it shouldn't do any damage, since there isn't pressure built up on the pipe.

What the dealer told you is exactly what I did. I also found an dealer PDF document that walks the AS tech through all the steps to take to winterize a unit. It does not say to pump antifreeze into the pipes. In my unit, the water pump is difficult to access, so it isn't conducive to installing the antifreeze tube with the T-fitting even if I wanted to...
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:04 PM   #20
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Line blow-out and anti-freeze pump-through is extra insurance for a small investment in time and money. Simple as that.
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