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Old 09-19-2009, 06:56 AM   #15
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good job

Nick-

That's craftsmanship.

Great job.

John
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:19 PM   #16
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1973 Argosy 24
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Saturdays progress. I'll post the rest up on the Flickr link tomorrow.

The back wall is 1/8" hardboard covered by 1" foam and a complimentary fabric. I am in the process of inserting gromets (actually a fabric store snap center with a self tapping sheet metal screw) into the fabric to give it some interest.

Have to shop for a chrome outlet cover for the existing outlet in the upper left. Curtain tracks go back up tomorrow!

BTW, those are the existing gaucho cushions. I sized the new dinette to reuse them; we will need additional cushioning against the front wall to make the bed approximately 46" D x 77" L.
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:38 PM   #17
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Nick, Looks like you are doing a great job, that will be something you can be proud of. Annie put on a post earlier saying she would post a pic of the dinette we just finished so I will include that now. Keep up the good work.

Marvin
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:57 PM   #18
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Looks great Marvin! Did your Argosy have a freshwater tank originally? I toyed with removing ours but decided to keep it. I don't see us boondocking, but the next owners may want that feature.

Nick
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Old 09-19-2009, 08:17 PM   #19
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Marvin that does look great. I was actually considering trying to use the couches on both sides that meet in the middle like you replaced. Can you tell me why those didn't work out as well for you? I do like the look of this even better though.

The problem with our current OEM dinette is that the thick table rests over the seats so making it into a bed puts your head and feet lower than the middle section. A narrower table and lower rests would have made the bed flat in our Airstream. I was thinking couches that meet in the middle wouldn't have loose cushions moving about as they do and feel more cushioned.
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:43 PM   #20
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Nick, yes ours has the water tank in front, I think all Argosy's are like that as you have the second year made and ours is the last year made of the metal ones. I think that was a good idea to leave the water tank, I just enclosed it and there is a door on top to store light weight items.

Carol, our beds don't come together to make a bed, the table does fold down for more room if you don't want a table. But the trailer only sleeps 2.
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:45 AM   #21
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Ours started with the gaucho, but a PO put in an Airstream dinette - authentic with the tambour doors and matching finish.
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:32 AM   #22
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'74 Argosy

Here is what I've done. The water tank is not a problem in my opinion. I replaced the original front and side shelving that was around the Goucho. It gave me a nice rectangle to work with when building the dinette. Actually built the dinette first then installed the shelving.
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Old 02-07-2010, 07:42 AM   #23
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Nice job TG! I like the shelf look in the back. Are you reusing the existing cushions or starting from scratch?
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:29 AM   #24
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Cushions

My wife and I have spent the better part of the last 2 weeks trying to pick fabric colors for the new cushions. I think it was easier and less time consuming to build the dinnette. It's not going to be cheap either. While we can buy cushions removed from new travel trailers at local RV dealer for about $300.00 for the set, they are not the color or pattern we would like to have. It looks like $500-$700 for custom cushion. I could not believe how pricey they are.
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:48 PM   #25
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That sounds about right. We bought fabric and went to a local shop to have both our gouchos done. The foam was pretty thick and good quality, and ended up costing us $500 for both. The guy then charged us, $100 each to sew the gouchos, totaling about $800 for the whole job. It was a lot of money but we like the way it looks and feels. We have pictures in the photo section. I sure like the way your dinette looks. You did a great job with you cabinet work. I wish our trailer was laid out that way.

I'm thinking you have taken apart the cabinets and I have a question. I want to take out the sliding door (tambour) under our sink and replace it with two wooden panels that I can just slide across each other or to the side out to cover the whole area. The existing tambours seem hopelessly stuck in a half closed position. I was thinking of taking my drill and saw, and just cutting the exposed part of the tambour in half horizontally, then vertically as far to the right as I can get to get them out. Do think that might work, or will I end up with stuck doors that are cut in half?

Thanks for the input.

Cameron
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:48 AM   #26
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If the tambour doors are stuck it is likely the tracks are the problem. If the tracks get closer together the door sticks. Look for the screws that hold the track onto the framework inside the cabinet. If you can get to them, take them out and the track will drop. You should be able to get the door out without a lot of trouble. The bypass doors are possibility but the room is tight in there. You will also have to figure a way to keep the doors locked closed while traveling unless you like to pick stuff up off the floor. You do what you think is best, but if the tambour is in pretty good shape it is a lightweight solution to keeping stuff under the sink, not on the floor. I cleaned the tracks on mine, messed with the tracks a bit, learned how to open and close the door without binding, and am very happy with the results. Your results might vary.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:12 AM   #27
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yeah, whatever you do, don't take an ax to the tambour.

even if you don't want it...somebody else will. (like me ).

I have a PO's concocted sliding doors on mine. It was made with some aluminum track that can be bought at the hardware store. It works...but not "great". The sliders can still pop out, and it looks really amateurish. The PO did this to just about every tambour in the trailer, and I've scrounged replacement tambour over the years to put most of it back to original. But the large galley-tambour is hard to find, and probably can't be made to work well, due to its size and config.
What I would like to do is get a hold of that galley tambour, and use it as a facing for a pair of conventional swinging cabinet doors. That would make a permanent, functional fix, and yet still match the rest of the trailer.
A user here did that (I think it was "juel"), and it really looks like the factory put it there.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:55 AM   #28
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Here's what we did, conventional doors, but used the tambour pieces for the door panels so they matched. One door for the drawer side, and two for under the sink. The under sink ones had to be two different sizes to allow for furnace door access. Then we installed earthquake-type latches to keep them closed when we are on the road. (they are not on here in this picture). Love them, they work so much better than the tambour or sliding doors. We did steal the idea from Juel!
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