I've got to update the 'ol profile. I've got a 1Ton Dodge Van B350. Even with the 350 V8 I crammed into the Astro, I didn't have enough brakes.
If you see Sergei's last photo, you'll see that the shower pan pulls away from the wall, leaving a gap that goes from nothing to about a inch from the wall (from the sliding door wall it's nothing. Closer to the toilet it gets to be about an inch). I too pulled out my plastic counter, wall combo. I'm custom (with a "K"ustom) now. I put in a crude birch plywood countertop/cabinets and have a great stainless steel sink that sits ontop of the counter.
I haven't completed it yet as we still keep toying with junking the interior and doing something simular to what Sergei is doing - except maybe with a mid bath.
Marc
No Marc, there is no gap whatsoever between the rear wall and the shower pan. It fits tight. There will be no gap to hide with the trim. The trim is just to complete the transition between pan and wall.
Can you zoom in on the photo above? I’m sure you’ll see the perfectly tight fit if you look again.
Could it be that I pulled everything out and started again while you left the pocket door wall in place? Perhaps that’s why you have a space, if our baths started out the same.
Here’s my original set up, showing the pan next to the toilet.
To the other side, the old molded vanity top and sink.
I pulled out the old sink. My new sink is a stainless salad bowl from IKEA. It will sit ATOP the counter, opposite side of the bathroom. It cost me $19.00.
The plastic back splash that I pulled out is here. Like yours?
Here’s the same shroud from the rear.
When I got rid of this contraption I gained space. I imbedded the plumbing IN THE REAR WALL, well insulated and further protected with a heater tape.
To be contuniued because I've run out of photo posting space...........
Here is the miniature shower mixer, and union. I think they’re Italian made for marine use. I have a nice European style hand shower that screws into the union and hangs at eye level.
This is the rear of the cabin after I painted it in a hard, lustrous epoxy like finish from POR 15.
You can see the miniature fixtures above the pan.
Can you see the white cabinets directly opposite, to the right as you enter the rear bath space?
That’s where the new sink and faucet will be mounted.
Now, rather than the throne sitting on a box and all the crowding, there will be smooth, clean lines and lots of WHITE. The white ceramic toilet will sit in the centre, on the floor, as in your home.
If you like Ikea or Northern European design or minimalism you’ll like this. If you like gingham and cherry wood you won’t.
Sergei,
Looking terrific. What are you using for molding between the shower pan and the outer walls? Also, the J molding you spoke of for between the upper and lower skins; could you post a link or mfg part number for those? Lookin' at that nice clean shower surround and bulkhead is getting me motivated to rip ours apart.
Next, the inside facing wall that completes the “sandwich”.
On Saturday we will do that and probably start to install the bathroom cabinetry on the opposite side of the cabin.
That’s needed because the pocket door hardware will attach there.
Getting the “sandwich wall” up also allows us to proceed with the LG “Art Cool” split system air conditioner.
The aluminum molding around the shower pan radius is a simple 1-1/2” “L” angle with a 1/4” lip. Available at Home Depot and such in the department were they usually stock random metal J molds, trims, angles, etc.
Got mine at Home Depot.
The very inexpensive plastic J mold used on all my panel edges is the kind they use in plastic sheeting wall systems. Got mine at the local small town lumberyard.
Similar idea to what Airstream did in your original Argosy except that this trim won’t become yellow and brittle because you will paint it out with your wall paint.
If you PM me a mailing address I can mail you a couple small sample pieces.
Sergei,
I'll poke around Home Dopey and the local "real" hardware stores and look into the J molding. The Aluminum "L" is that 1-1/2" on one leg and and 1/4" on the other or does the 1/4" dimension apply to a groove that the skin and/or shower pan slip into?
Damn it's looking good! What were you doing in the mid 70's when Airstream needed you as their interior designer ;+)
I think your idea of using cabinets from IKEA is very inventive. Is there a particular model or product line name that you chose to use? There is a brand new IKEA store being built here in Portland, Oregon as we speak.
Sorry, Marmaduke. Your advice is 15 MONTHS and over a 100 posts too late.
A lot has happened since then.
(Could you be a politician, seeing as how you know how to quote out of context so selectively?).
Here’s respected member UWE’s reaction when I decided to stay the course
( post #27 above):
Bravo!
Sergei, sounds to me like you have a very good plan to spend the rest of your life. ( may it be long and fun filled!)
Frankly, I was a little saddened by your earlier post where abandoning your otherwise great ideas was mentioned.
Many of us would do the same thing, were we not compromised by time, family needs, financial woes, or whatever else usually gets in the way of doing exactly what we want. You having this option is a great asset! Use it!
__________________
Uwe
Here’s my explanation of how I got back on course, while thanking him and others ( post #28):
Tin Lizzie, Uwe and others who sent messages off line.
I appreciate your support.
Steve Jobs, the founder of Apple Computer recently said
“ don’t let the noise of others’ opinions drown out your own inner voice”.
I liked reading that, I suppose because I usually do listen to my own inner voice despite the noise.
This time I got confused with what my own voice was. I was making myself believe that I should be practical.
There was no “ noise of others’ opinions” actually. It was just me doing a trip on myself.
Two people in particular put me back on path.
One was Russ Wiltsie, in whose shop I am remodeling the Argosy. He’s a very soft-spoken guy and one day he said, his eyes searching my face for a reaction “ will you be happy with a van as your daily vehicle?”
The other person was George, the son of my best friend, who came to see me on New Year’s Eve.
I told him that I had decided to get practical. He shot back “Get real, Sergei. Owning a trailer isn’t a practical idea in the first place! Follow your dream. Go back to your plan. It was too cool”
From that moment I got back with the program.
Next, I want to post some ideas here about harnessing the Sprinter’s power plant to provide electricity for my rig, hoping that some of the technically minded here can give me advice.
Uwe, if you’re out there, I particularly want to hear your suggestions.
There can't be any turning back.... I want to see the completed rig!
Malcom - oh boy, Ikea, no taxes... time for a trip down south (I can smell those Swedish meatballs a mile away...)! I can answer about the Ikea cabinets for Sergei. Ikea uses a basic cabinet shell (that's the white box that Sergei has lightened), and then you pick your own type of style/wood/glass for the doors/sides. Pretty easy system to use and build (I redid our 1940's kitchen using their system) - reasonalbly priced too. The biggest bugaboo is weight - which Sergei has nicely taken care of.
Power take off... Sergei - you mentioned that the Sprinter has a high idle function and built in generator. Is there a power outlet to plug into somewhere on the rig? I can't remember your posted specs off the top of my head (without re-reading the whole post). Something around 3000 watts?
Marc
Yes, the J mold is the stuff used with those plastic sheets.
The butyl rubber tape comes on a roll, something like weather strip. See Phil using it in #132 just above.
It is rubbery and VERY sticky. It stuck the mold in place, no screws.
Truck body builders use it between the ribs and the roof and body panels. Airstream should use it the same way. Thermo conduction would be eliminated that way.
Bernie:
On the shower wall I used the angle mold with the 1/4” lip ON TOP. That was because there is a fiberglass lip from the pan to hide.
When I use the same molding as a base board, I will have the lip on the BOTTOM.
Sergei,
Like the cabinets but LOVE the smooth clean walls. Looks like you've removed the closet in the bathroom and move the electrical stuff. I think that's a great concept. The bathroom closet is under utilised largely because you have to leave clearance around the Univolt and the breakers (not to mention all the loose wires). Plus, it just doesn't seem like having the electrical in the bathroom is a good idea from the beginning.
Moving the sink and counter up against the outside wall will allow a mirror a 6' person can actually use and make it so it's a real "medicine cabinet" to boot. The round sink nestled into the rounded corner of the trailer looks good and is an efficient use of space. Now if there was just a good way to make it so the window didn't extend into the shower! Oh well, can't have everything.
The electrical panel will be moved just outside the bathroom, in the wardrobe/desk combination that is next along the street side wall.
I think I will follow your suggestion and put frosted glass film on the rear window, except for maybe the uppermost 4” or so. That will look cool and afford a level of privacy in the shower stall.
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