In re-manufacturing the sliding door system for the Argosy,
it was easier to remove a slice from the doors than re-install all the hardware.
The resulting “scar” is of no consequence. We will fill and sand it but only to make a smooth bed for the 4” high band of brushed aluminum that will wrap around the doors at this point.
I’ll post an “After” photo of the doors later this week.
Hi Sergei,, aluminum is very easily cleaned,, stainless is a nightmare, witness my kitchen appliances,, ha ha,,, glad to hear it is going along well,, think you have it under control,, best,, dieter
Do you know if the aluminum sheets in that area are protective coated? In other words, if you run a rag and polish over your walls, will the cloth blacken?
Sergei,, in my Bambi,, the cloth does not blacken,, in my stick house i have a sheet of stainless behind the stove under the warming shelf, above the burners,, is not treated and one of the most difficult things to keep clean,, and then polish after cleaning,, hope this helps,, dieter,,
About the only thing I know that will really protect aluminum is a hard anodize. Note anodizing does not have to be colored. The dyes they use when anodizing work because aluminum is porous. Of course there's coatings like the clearcoat used on the outside of the Airstreams but that's going to be susceptable to damage from kitchen cleaners. Either way you have to figure in the cost of finishing treatment. As long as you're not welding the stainless all you should need to do is apply "elbow grease".
Stainless comes in a variety of alloys. Most shouldn't be a problem to keep clean. The 300 series (301 and 304 mostly) have a high nickel content and are used extensively for marine products.
I'm surprised the material costs are that big of a factor compared to labor and given the small quantity you're talking about. Maybe it's the small quantity that's the problem and the fabricator has to buy (and pass along the cost) of a full sheet? Remember too that you should be able to get by with a thinner gage of SS vs the Aluminum.
I believe you can buy sheets of the interior Aluminum for AS direct. You can give them a call and find out. I know Uwe really hated working with it.
Marc
For two pieces of 304, 24 gauge, 28” by 75 5/8” and an Airstream profile 41” by 25”, Rigidized Metals in Buffalo wanted $494 US. Delivery was 3 weeks.
Buffalo is 3 hours from here. Having it shipped or spending an entire day fetching it would have added a pile more money. Plus currency translation.
I’ve asked Wiltsie’s to provide the pieces in .040 aluminum, which will have a lovely dull sheen. I can easily cut the window opening and the profile myself.
Dieter’s test tells me the aluminum is coated. I’ll either have Pat at Wiltsie’s spray my finished work with automotive clear coat (an idea from Lewster) or paint it myself in low sheen clear urethane.
Aluminum J mold is inexpensively available at Home Depot.
I’ll glue the panels on to the existing walls using PL Premium.
I posted in a hurry! Uwe posted that he did not like working with Stainless.
Rich Luer (of ASLife) bought the interior skin aluminum from AS directly. I don't think it cost all that much back then for Vintage Thunder.
Grant Davidson
( DavidsonOverlander) is building all new birch furniture for the project.
This is the mid-ship curbside gaucho sleeper. The three 18” deep under-the-bed drawers pull out on slides.
The fourth space will hold another slide out box which will contain the sealed and vented battery box as well as the converter, panel and shut-off switch.
According to my Ikea bathroom scale, the ParaMode charger converter, the Blue Sea distribution panel and the Bussmann fuse/switch, all together, weigh less than 10 pounds.
That seems a lot less than the old Univolt!
The ParaMode is 10 by 8.5 by 3.5” and can be wall or floor mounted.
Finding out that Lifeline AGM batteries cost 5 TIMES as much as ordinary wet cells, I am not sure yet what I will do there.
In any case there will be more than enough room in the slide out compartment and we can deal with the weight as well.
We will devise a harness that will allow the wiring and vent tube to ride with the sliding container.
Sergei,
Why go to the hassle of making the electricals slide? On the original design I think there was a slide or at least access from outside (nice idea for the battery(s). This is an area you shouldn't have to access very often and when you do its likely going to require some semi-major attention. Seems to me it'd be more reliable, easier, cheaper and in the end a lot more serviceable to simply access this from above. Even though that would mean moving the cushions and what not I don't think those are items you want nearby when you're dealing with wiring and batteries. Batteries really appreciate being securely mount; and you'll really appreciate it too
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