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Old 03-16-2007, 04:37 PM   #169
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like building a prototype

Hard to say when I’ll be finished Dieter. It’s a good thing that I started out quoting Joe Reddington’s old adage: “ If you don’t have a plan, that’s one less thing that can go wrong”.

It’s really agonizingly slow at times and everything takes more time than you first think it will.

Like right now: I don’t know how much time we’ve spent trying to figure out how to hide and insulate the refrigerant lines to the air conditioner in a wall that’s only 1” thick.

It’s kind of like building a prototype. You have an idea or a concept then you have to figure out how to do it.


Sergei

Thanks for the shelf liner idea. It might work. I know the same stuff keeps rugs from moving.
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Old 03-16-2007, 04:53 PM   #170
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The funny thing about the shelf liner is that it probably works better for heavier things than it would for light things. I doubt, for example, if it would hold on all that tightly to a roll of paper towels. On the other hand it would probably work great for a can of soup. It still sounds like a great idea but it may not be enough for every kind of thing you might want up there.

I wonder if you could use some sort of netting like the bungy cord based cargo netting I have seen for pickup trucks? It seems like there should be some sort of smaller scale elastic netting that you could get that could just be hooked in place when you are ready to roll.

I have wondered if fabric bags might be usefull for some types of storage too.

Malcolm
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:16 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
I wonder if you could use some sort of netting like the bungy cord based cargo netting I have seen for pickup trucks?

I have wondered if fabric bags might be usefull for some types of storage too.
Both are common tricks on sailboats, especially when racing. Also a small, maybe 3" lip. You can probably fore go the hand holds for when you're heeled over

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Old 03-16-2007, 09:52 PM   #172
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Dieter, Malcolm, Bernie:

All your ideas are good and worth trying. A “rubberized” shelf with some sort of hold down strap or net for moving might be a good combination.

I see an open shelf instead of the typical bunkers or overheads but I don’t see “stuff” displayed on the shelf. Rather, “stuff” in matching boxes on a clean lined shelf.

Sergei
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:42 AM   #173
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Safari:


The scene at dawn was pretty desolate. My neighbor is a single mother with two 10 to 12 year old boys.

I didn’t know they were in Georgia for Spring Break until the fire captain told me.

I suspect the fire had been smoldering inside the empty house for a long time. Last night, working in the Argosy, I smelled smoke and started checking my electric space heaters, etc.

Later, leaving the work shed, I smelled smoke even more strongly but assumed it might be fireplaces in the village.

Seven or eight hours later their home was a fireball.

The captain also told me he knew their place was a goner when he pulled up. What concerned him was that my place would be next.

The side of my attached garage was not charred so much as it was scorched or blistered, as you can see.

Living in the country, the volunteer firemen are often neighbors you don’t know yet. One of them came over this morning and said “I guess you’re pretty happy we got ‘er in time. You ‘been working on that trailer a long time.”


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Old 03-17-2007, 10:42 AM   #174
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Thanks for the update. I'm just glad no one was hurt.

I'm also glad they got it in time for your home.

Great work on the Argosy. This thread is one of my daily stops! ;-)
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Old 03-17-2007, 01:35 PM   #175
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lines flared

OK. We have the supply lines flared, insulated and routed to the blower unit.

Now, the trick will be to get the fiberboard “skin” onto the wall, with the pipes hidden inside, the blower unit outside.


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Old 03-19-2007, 08:33 PM   #176
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We did it

After confusing ourselves with various schemes to get the supply lines behind the wall “skin”, Phil and I did it the simple way.

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We cut an access panel opening in the skin before attaching it to the wall, then hung the AC and made the connections.

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Then we temporarily attached the front on the LG Art Cool Split air system
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The access opening will be covered, either in brushed aluminum to match the AC or painted out to match the wall.

We just have to make the plug-in connections for communications and screw the cover down. It’s 5.5 inches out from the wall and 22” square.

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Old 03-19-2007, 10:29 PM   #177
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We have been working on the outside part of the air conditioning as well.

We had an aluminum stand for the compressor built at the Wiltsie shop. The compressor bolts to the stand and the stand to the frame.

The stand is needed so that there will be clearance for the weight distribution hitch and for the various hoses to and from the Webasto diesel heater.


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Old 03-20-2007, 08:29 AM   #178
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pocket door

I,ve been through your posts a couple of times and I can't seem to find what kind of pocket door track you used. Did you use a standard household type galvinized track or did you find an aluminun track? I,ve been thinking on using a pocket door for a side bath that I,m going to install on my 21' Globetrotter.
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Old 03-20-2007, 12:22 PM   #179
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Kip,

Like my renovation, this thread has perhaps gone on for too long.

The info was in post #152.

The door hardware is by Johnson Hardware. It is very well made, the best I’ve seen. 1” Aluminum U channel with neat little three-wheeled buggies riding in the channel tracks.

We managed to hang a door only 1/2” thick with this.

You can find their stuff in most big boxes. You probably won’t find the smaller, single door sets stocked. Check the quality and design there, as I did, then order direct by the internet.

http://www.johnsonhardware.com/

We also used a strip of adhesive-backed foam on each inner wall. This eliminated any slap and makes the door move very smoothly, almost like it was on hydraulics.


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Old 03-20-2007, 09:09 PM   #180
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This plumbing maze rests below the wash stand / vanity in the bathroom. The bottom of the cabinet will be a .040 pre coated white aluminum shelf that will lift up when access is needed.

I did the plumbing runs so long ago that I’ve started to forget what was done. So I labeled it all.

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Old 03-21-2007, 09:05 AM   #181
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Painting the interior

In a recent thread by boatdoc, he asked if one could paint the vinyl interior panels.

I’m repeating my reply here, just for the record keeping and for those that may be interested or helped.

Boatdoc:

You can paint the vinyl clad aluminum panels easily. I don’t know about other products but this is what I did with perfect results:

First wash down the walls very well. Prep is everything. I tried several types of cleaners and found a spray called KRUD KUTTER superior to everything. I also washed everything down with TSP.

I used TWO coats of KILZ primer.

For the majority of the trailer I used a Benjamin Moore wall paint, oil based and FLAT. Beautiful results.

Same thing with the bath area. There I used a two-component coating by POR 15 called WhiteCoat. The white finish is as hard and brilliant as porcelain.

I applied the flat oil with those little foam rollers originally called “ German rollers”. They produce a lovely finish that looks like it was sprayed.

I used these rollers for the POR 15 too, having first asked the supplier about it. The paint reacted with the roller and ruined the job.

We had to sand the whole thing down with 400 grit paper and redo it with a brush.

POR 15 paid for the replacement paint.




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Old 03-23-2007, 06:52 PM   #182
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Pat Luscomb, the painter at Wiltsie Truck Body, is coming by tomorrow to paint the small 12 s.f. area below the front window Mini Cooper Black.

This will allow us to install and permanently connect the compressor for the LG split unit.

I took the cover off the compressor today, sanded it down and cleaned it with TSP.

We will paint it black at the same time.


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