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Old 03-01-2007, 06:22 PM   #127
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Marc,
Are you still towing with an Astro? We're using a Safari van and I'd like to compare notes.

If I'm understanding Sergei he's removed all the original plastic pieces except the shower pan itself and is using only the original aluminum interior skins for the surround. He had to of course plug some of the holes and used a small piece of J molding to close the gap between the upper and lower pieces. No need for the piece that runs along the back since he embedded the plumbing in the outer wall.

It's too bad that rear window is so wide. It would be really nice to NOT have it intrude into the shower space from both a cleanup and privacy point of view. The "frosted glass" overlay Sergei talks about might be the answer to the privacy issue. That whole rear bath idea looked better in the show room than it works in real life.

-Bernie
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:12 PM   #128
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Hi Bernie!

I've got to update the 'ol profile. I've got a 1Ton Dodge Van B350. Even with the 350 V8 I crammed into the Astro, I didn't have enough brakes.

If you see Sergei's last photo, you'll see that the shower pan pulls away from the wall, leaving a gap that goes from nothing to about a inch from the wall (from the sliding door wall it's nothing. Closer to the toilet it gets to be about an inch). I too pulled out my plastic counter, wall combo. I'm custom (with a "K"ustom) now. I put in a crude birch plywood countertop/cabinets and have a great stainless steel sink that sits ontop of the counter.

I haven't completed it yet as we still keep toying with junking the interior and doing something simular to what Sergei is doing - except maybe with a mid bath.
Marc
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:09 PM   #129
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No Marc, there is no gap whatsoever between the rear wall and the shower pan. It fits tight. There will be no gap to hide with the trim. The trim is just to complete the transition between pan and wall.

Can you zoom in on the photo above? I’m sure you’ll see the perfectly tight fit if you look again.


Could it be that I pulled everything out and started again while you left the pocket door wall in place? Perhaps that’s why you have a space, if our baths started out the same.


Here’s my original set up, showing the pan next to the toilet.

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To the other side, the old molded vanity top and sink.
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I pulled out the old sink. My new sink is a stainless salad bowl from IKEA. It will sit ATOP the counter, opposite side of the bathroom. It cost me $19.00.
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The plastic back splash that I pulled out is here. Like yours?

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Here’s the same shroud from the rear.


When I got rid of this contraption I gained space. I imbedded the plumbing IN THE REAR WALL, well insulated and further protected with a heater tape.


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To be contuniued because I've run out of photo posting space...........
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:15 PM   #130
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Here is the miniature shower mixer, and union. I think they’re Italian made for marine use. I have a nice European style hand shower that screws into the union and hangs at eye level.


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This is the rear of the cabin after I painted it in a hard, lustrous epoxy like finish from POR 15.

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You can see the miniature fixtures above the pan.


Can you see the white cabinets directly opposite, to the right as you enter the rear bath space?


That’s where the new sink and faucet will be mounted.

Now, rather than the throne sitting on a box and all the crowding, there will be smooth, clean lines and lots of WHITE. The white ceramic toilet will sit in the centre, on the floor, as in your home.

If you like Ikea or Northern European design or minimalism you’ll like this. If you like gingham and cherry wood you won’t.


Sergei
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Old 03-02-2007, 06:21 PM   #131
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No No...

our house is built by Ikea... well, not really, but almost everything inside! Ingvar likes to come and visit often!

Ah... I think if I moved the pan forward, there wouldn't be a gap. Thank you! Ours looked the same before too.

Can't wait to see more!
Marc
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:34 PM   #132
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Phil suggested using the butyl tape they use at WILTSIE TRUCK BODIES to attach the aluminum molding to the shower walls.
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It works beautifully and is waterproof.
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After we glued the pieces in place we used white bath caulk all around. No screws. No seams. Looks terrific.
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This is the sink cabinet and “sink” across the room, just for position.
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Sergei
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:28 PM   #133
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The pocket door arrived from Indiana today. I’ve been painting the actual door itself and we’ll hang the hardware and mount the door Wednesday night.

Meanwhile Phil has started to build the stand for the LG compressor. He also did some more work on the neat little box that he built to house the Webasto heater.


Sergei
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:14 PM   #134
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The original Argosy was finished poorly

Every time you opened a door or a drawer you were met with protruding screws or unfinished plywood.

We are taking more care in the re-model. Even the inside of the pocket door system will be painted, not left rough.


Sergei
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Old 03-07-2007, 02:11 PM   #135
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Sergei,
Looking terrific. What are you using for molding between the shower pan and the outer walls? Also, the J molding you spoke of for between the upper and lower skins; could you post a link or mfg part number for those? Lookin' at that nice clean shower surround and bulkhead is getting me motivated to rip ours apart.

-Bernie
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Old 03-07-2007, 09:07 PM   #136
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We’ve hung the pocket door

The track operates very smoothly.

Next, the inside facing wall that completes the “sandwich”.
On Saturday we will do that and probably start to install the bathroom cabinetry on the opposite side of the cabin.

That’s needed because the pocket door hardware will attach there.

Getting the “sandwich wall” up also allows us to proceed with the LG “Art Cool” split system air conditioner.

Sergei
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Old 03-08-2007, 08:29 AM   #137
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moldings

Bernie:

The aluminum molding around the shower pan radius is a simple 1-1/2” “L” angle with a 1/4” lip. Available at Home Depot and such in the department were they usually stock random metal J molds, trims, angles, etc.

Got mine at Home Depot.

The very inexpensive plastic J mold used on all my panel edges is the kind they use in plastic sheeting wall systems. Got mine at the local small town lumberyard.

Similar idea to what Airstream did in your original Argosy except that this trim won’t become yellow and brittle because you will paint it out with your wall paint.

If you PM me a mailing address I can mail you a couple small sample pieces.


Sergei
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Old 03-08-2007, 10:00 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe
Dear Diary:

I went to see the Sprinter salesman before Christmas.

I’m not saying that I drove home with cold feet about my Mini Cooper on a flatbed pulling the Argosy idea but the thought of spending $50,000 on a tow vehicle would probably make anyone consider things very carefully.

Perhaps I should take time for a Reality Check?

I am 69 and before I know it, if I’m lucky, I’ll be 75.

Maybe loading and unloading the Mini, even driving one, is a better idea when you are 55.

Shouldn’t I consider the option of a van, not just the flatbed plan?

Often when I’m conflicted or uncertain I sit down a type “notes to myself”

Like these:

Sprinter Cab and Chassis flatbed, hauling MINI and pulling Argosy

PRO

Super Cool idea
A unique dream project that I’ve been planning for 4 or
5 years and told everyone about (I bought the Mini
with this plan in mind)
Have your Mini and use it too

CON

Giving up on a dream is an emotional hurdle to
overcome
More ups and downs, as we used to say in the Circus
Two vehicles to maintain, insure, license, operate
(savings on insurance and licensing about $2500 annually- $12,500 over 5 years)
Limited to one passenger
Flat bed to build
Two vehicles to steal (maybe together)
Too much consumerism? Do I really need a “toy
hauler”?


Sprinter Van pulling Argosy

CON

May not be totally dull and ordinary, but definitely
lacks the pizzazz of a Jet Black Flatbed
Giving up my Mini – do I really want a VAN for daily use?

PRO

No ups and downs, less to do helps preserve my energy
Sale of Mini helps fund the project
Savings on insurance and licensing about $2500
annually- $12,500 over 5 years)
Savings on Mini maintenance, probably $1000.
annually
Extra seating in case family members, grandchildren
want to come along
Ready made large cargo space vs. need to build possum
bellys
Lighter load perhaps equals more miles per
gallon
No flatbed to build
A van can be a mini motorhome for day excursions
whereas the Mini has more limitations
Less operational cost (insure, license, maintain,
operate)
Less exposure (leave one unit behind to steal instead of
two)
High seat driving comfort – it’s getting harder and harder to get in and out of the little MINI



Maybe forum members can offer some advice?


Sergei
I have a 76 24ft Argosy that is great w/a 2000 Yukon or Tahoe. Plus you get extra storage (generator/grill) in the truck & didn't lose any seating.
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Old 03-08-2007, 10:12 AM   #139
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Coming together now!

As usual, looks first rate! The L trim didn't seem to have any issues bending around corners - looked pretty simple. What "special" glue does the box truck factory use that works on the aluminum trim?

The J trim - is that what they use with plastic bathroom walls?

Thanks!
Marc
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Old 03-08-2007, 12:48 PM   #140
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This is the first I have seen of this thread and I like what I see. There are some good ideas here that I might be able to use on my unit once I get to that point. I am working on re-installing the interior skins now.

Malcolm
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