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Old 08-30-2014, 08:39 AM   #1
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Classic rear end floor rot

Looks like I have the floor rot in the back end of my argosy 24. Last 8 inches of floor turned to dust along with the wooden 2X4 ends. I believe I must take out the bathroom to effect a repair on this. The way everything is interconnected I figure the twin beds come out first, then the wall and pocket door, and then the bathroom fittings. Do I have it right or is there an easier way. The frame is still good. there is no sag or droop in the back.
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:19 AM   #2
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Good morning Gearheart,
I do not have any advice for you but, if you would do me a solid and take / post lot's of pictures re: the procedure, that sure would help me when I get to that point. I'm still working on a section of rot replacement at the entry door, the "sprung" door and non existent gasket made a great path for rainwater. Hope it goes well and enjoy...
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:49 AM   #3
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I'm still gathering ideas myself. From what I read, the install process started at the back and worked forward. The beds look like the easiest place to break into the process and then work back from there. My trailer is not so bad as to require immediate attention. I've been working on it since July 1 and want to use it a bit before I store it for the winter. This will be next year's project.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:55 AM   #4
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Look into using West System Epoxy, many uses like laminating and can be thinned to make a penetrating epoxy;
Epoxy by the Leading Epoxy Manufacturer | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

the first pic the rot repair on my '58 Traveler, the second pic is the plywood floor after saturating it with the thinned out epoxy.
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:24 PM   #5
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You got lucky. You had something there to saturate. Mine is crumbled into dust and will need to have new plywood installed.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:13 AM   #6
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I am sure that I was lucky but I new what I was looking for when I bought the '58 Traveler.
The area of repair was full of rot and crumbling. I carved out the soft wood and treated the area with epoxy. I then laminated new wood in that area ensuring to seat the new wood where the old wood came from.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:46 PM   #7
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When I did my 77 Argosy 24 double, I left the closet in and removed the water heater and bed. All of the bathroom fixtures came out of coarse. I also welded some angle iron supports in line with the hall, over the grey water tank. That area was not well supported from the factory.
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:47 AM   #8
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When making repairs along the edge of the floor, is everyone tucking the new wood into the C-channel under the walls? This seems hard to do, especially if you are not taking the walls apart and cutting out the bolts that go through the C-channel. I guess you could slot the wood where the bolt is and slip it in.
I want to replace about 12 inches all across the back and have studied how to do it using one long piece.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:24 AM   #9
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I did exactly that when I repaired my floor. I literally laminated the repair using new wood. I took another piece of plywood and shaved the new pieces from it. I was then able to shape the new pieces before epoxying them layer by layer into the previously soft area. This repair was labor intensive for a repair of that size but much more desirable than lifting the shell and my '58 18' Traveler still has the original Zolatone on the original unmolested panels.
Using the right materials makes the job much easier.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:34 AM   #10
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You need to remove the interior wall panels to access the rear hold down plate. Mine was rusted in two. Also makes it much easier to seal the rear storage area to the shell so it doesn't happen again.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:01 AM   #11
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Great photo Ventport, it helps to see it in real life. I wonder if i have a gray water tank in a 1975 model - I have not taken the belly pan off yet.
Can you describe where the hold down plate is?
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:49 AM   #12
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Great picture Ventport. My '73 doesn't have the gray tank. Ppl were still dumping gray on the ground back then. I think they started putting in gray tanks in 74 in anticipation of legislation to end that practice. Alfaguy, the hold down plate aka C channel is between the inner and outer skin so the inner skin must come off as well. It seems, at least by Ventport's photo that the shower can be removed without taking out the beds and stuff forward of the bathroom.
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:58 PM   #13
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The hold down plate is an angle iron plate that ties the shell to the floor and frame. It is centered side to side, one in the back and one in the front of the trailer. In the front you will see 2 rows of rivets just above floor level from the outside. In the rear the rivets are hidden under the lower rub rail, which must be removed to drill them out.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:12 AM   #14
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Here are some picture of what I have done to my 1973 Argosy. Rear end was rotten so i replaced everything your talking about and more. password to see pictures is argosy

Argosy Photos by sprouty64 | Photobucket
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