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Old 10-10-2010, 10:11 PM   #15
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Here's another "how": How do you know your black tank is NG?
NG? does that mean No Good?

Because it's 33 years old. But I'm really just assuming.
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:26 PM   #16
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If the tank doesn't cost too much and it's a good time to replace it, I'd replace it too and go forward with a new valve and something else crossed off the list.

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Old 10-11-2010, 06:32 PM   #17
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If the tank doesn't cost too much and it's a good time to replace it, I'd replace it too and go forward with a new valve and something else crossed off the list.

Gary
I need to replace the valve, so replacing the tank makes sense, until I price them maybe.
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Old 12-07-2010, 09:15 PM   #18
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If there's nothing wrong with it, why replace it. I would like to replace ours with a larger one, but that's no easy task i fear. Figured I'd wait until it was time to gut the bathroom. That day is coming. G
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Old 12-07-2010, 09:35 PM   #19
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The thing is, the tanks are NEVER cheap. Well, so rarely it isn't funny. Be ready to take it out and test it: after a careful cleaning and close inspection for obvious stuff like holes or big cracks, place it on a stable footing and fill it up with water. Let it sit overnight to see if anything leaks out.

If it does leak, you need to decide to either throw it out and replace it, or see if it can be patched. Get back to us when you get to that part.

If it's good, next have a close hard look at the frame and supports it was sitting in. THIS is probably where you will have some work to do, as they will almost certainly be rotted out. There's a frame and a pan and probably hinges to check out.

Put your efforts into making that structure new again, and use the old tank if it is in good shape with no leaks. I agree that a new valve is important though. They have a definite life-span, and yours is over it, assuming it's original.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:11 AM   #20
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Aage, my black tank sits right on top of the floor, with a platform built on top and around it. The toilet sits on top of the platform. The frame is not right under it and there are no hinges involved.
I was able to save the black tank. We filled up with water as much as possible, at all different angles, and soaked, soaked, soaked it. Strange stuff kept coming out with every soaking. When stuff stopped coming out we deemed it useable. We installed a new slide valves. The tank is now installed, and has been holding water for about a week now with no signs of leaking. = ) This has been a slow process, but we are seeing lots of progress now. We hope to take her on her maiden voyage on or about Jan 10th to Quartzsite, AZ.
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:35 AM   #21
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Lady,

Yes, of course. We looked at that exact model when we were buying ours, and I now remember it clearly. Actually, the one we looked at had a brand new frame with 6" steel members, and the furnace, water heater, and cooktop had all been converted to diesel.

They had put all the money into those things though, and left some very odd things. For example, if you looked out the drain of the shower, you could see the ground. And the interior was 100% original, but minus the flooring.

Needless to say, it didn't gain many points with the DW, so off we went.

Hope you enjoy Quartzite!
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:57 PM   #22
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[QUOTE=RV H-D Lady;924503]Aage, my black tank sits right on top of the floor, with a platform built on top and around it. The toilet sits on top of the platform.


Actually only the top of the tank sits above the floor. You'll see the rest of it if you remove the belly pan. I believe the tank is really sort of "L" shaped. It's a shame they put such small tanks in our trailers. George.
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:19 AM   #23
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b

I'm hoping the picture will attach to show my black tank sitting on top of the floor... About 95% sits above the floor with a small section where the slide vavle attaches sitting below the floor in a spot where the floor had been cut out.

Sally
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:35 PM   #24
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I see what you mean Sally. It's only a 10 gal. tank, so maybe not much is below the floor. Honestly, if your going to go thru the trouble to replace it, I would see if you could get a bigger one to fit. Of course that would require modifying the box that the two tanks sit in from underneath. Just a thought. George.
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:44 PM   #25
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How do you remove the shower pan in a 1978 Tradewind? The pan is loose and seems to spin around the drain so it seems like that is the only connection point. I tried to unscrew the drain and started to spin but the spokes inside the drain snapped and I have no way of rotating it. Will I need to cut the pipe underneath the shower pan to remove it?
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:25 PM   #26
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How do you remove the shower pan in a 1978 Tradewind? The pan is loose and seems to spin around the drain so it seems like that is the only connection point. I tried to unscrew the drain and started to spin but the spokes inside the drain snapped and I have no way of rotating it. Will I need to cut the pipe underneath the shower pan to remove it?

I had the same experience on my 76 Tradewind. I ended up going from underneath and either unscrewing the tailpipe or just cutting it off. My drain was super corroded. Good luck!


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Old 08-27-2014, 08:24 AM   #27
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I also got mine from underneath. The belly pan had a screw-off panel directly underneath the drain. Once I got that off, it was easy to see what to do.
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:23 PM   #28
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My 73 Argosy is in the same shape as the before pics and I'm not looking forward to this job. I figure the twin beds and everything aft of them must come out. Am I right?
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