Calling on all Argosy Minuet Owners

[ply5013]

Thanks. I may just buy a couple of extras and keep the receipts. I can always return the ones that don't fit.

[GLovedahl]

We just purchased a 1978 Minuet, and are now beginning the restoration process. The previous owner had stripped out the floor covering, all the way down to the aluminum. I would like to install laminated flooring, but the aluminum subflooring has some sagging between the support structure. The flooring I'm looking at is called Quick Step, and is installed over a felt underlayment. The flooring also has a thin felt backing on it. The idea is for the flooring to "float", so it won't be adhered to anything. Is there anything I can put on the surface of the aluminum to make it more level, such as an epoxy resin? The previous owner was going to bolt half inch plywood down to the aluminum....is that a better approach?

Two other questions....I see references on here to the "original" Worthington LP tanks. I was going to simply take the two existing tanks to an LP retailer, and exchange them for two refurbished, filled tanks. Is that a bad idea? Is there anything different about the tanks that came with the trailer?

Finally, I think I'm going to replace the wooden cabinet doors that have been installed overhead where the Tambour doors once were. The channels are still there for tambour, and I've received some good advice on a different Argosy Forum about replacement tambour material. Is there any spring mechanism that the tambour wraps around, like the old window shades? Or does it simply roll up around itself as you raise the door? Is there any place that would have the original door pulls, or should I simply fashion some from whatever material I go with for the doors?

Lots of questions.....I"m new at this, and sure appreciate any advice.

[DKB_SATX]

Hey GLovedahl!

Keep in mind that I haven't actually done this, but I did come close to purchasing a Minuet with the aluminum floor here in Fort Worth early this year. Looking at the shape of the aluminum, I thought the best outcome was likely to be with those commercial-grade carpet squares. It would take a lot of work to build up underlayment to get a flat surface for a stiff laminate, and the underlayment would have to be strong enough to maintain that flat surface.

If you have aluminum tanks, absolutely do NOT exchange them for the rusty grill tanks you'll find available for exchange. If you don't have OPD valves on them yet, you can get them upgraded and recertified right here in Fort Worth, and can get a better deal having them refilled rather than exchanged. (the exchange tanks aren't completely filled anymore, that's how they get around the changing price of propane without having to change the price of all those blue rhino machines.)

Here is a list of Texas vendors who can recertify tanks. There are 8 listed in Fort Worth and a bunch in surrounding cities as well. I don't know if they will all upgrade the valves or not, but surely some will. The aluminum tanks don't rust, they're lighter, and it's nicer to have aluminum tanks on the aluminum trailer, y'know?

I don't think tambours have any sort of spring in them, they just slide through the tracks and use friction to stay put, though the short ones in my end-cap overhead locker have a little notch they fit in to stay open.

[mutcth]

When we had Marmoleum click floating floor installed in our Minuet, we had installed a fairly thick foam sheet underlayment. Some things still telegraphed through, and the seams of the floor opened up a bit with use and temperature changes. I liked it but it wasn't perfect.

I asked Colin Hyde a while back (through the VAP podcast) what he'd suggest. He mentioned installing a thin plywood overlay to prevent rivets and other things from telegraphing through. That doesn't have to be totally stiff or thick for a flexible floor sheet material.

I also had two more crossmembers put under the floor; that removed some sag and did a welcome job of stiffening it up some.

If we did it again (which we won't since the Minuet is sold), we would have used Flor carpet tiles like DKB suggests or would figure out some sheet material over a thin overlay.

Tom

[overlander64]

Greetings GLovedahl!

Originally Posted by GLovedahl

We just purchased a 1978 Minuet, and are now beginning the restoration process. The previous owner had stripped out the floor covering, all the way down to the aluminum. I would like to install laminated flooring, but the aluminum subflooring has some sagging between the support structure. The flooring I'm looking at is called Quick Step, and is installed over a felt underlayment. The flooring also has a thin felt backing on it. The idea is for the flooring to "float", so it won't be adhered to anything. Is there anything I can put on the surface of the aluminum to make it more level, such as an epoxy resin? The previous owner was going to bolt half inch plywood down to the aluminum....is that a better approach?

What you are proposing is exactly what I had done when replacing the original shag carpeting in my 6.0 Metre Minuet. Fowler RV Interiors of Symsonia, KY installed Armstrong Laminate flooring over Armstrong Quiet Step underlayment . . . this provided a double cushion as the Armstrong Laminate also had a built-in cushion as well. This installation has served well for seven seasons without any difficulty. My Minuet had very minimal sway in the composite aluminum flooring. I would advise against adding plywood to the floor system as it would create two problems . . . added weight when the 6.0 Metre Minuet has precious little cargo capacity to begin with (less than 800 pounds when optional installed equipment is taken into consideration). Rather than add to the weight with a layer of plywood, I would consider doubling up on the Quiet Step underlayment . . . or even applying a tripple layer if necessary. As another possible option, you might consider adding steel supports from beneath the floor . . . this would add weight but wouldn't add any additional stress to the aluminum composite floors as would plywood added from above.

Originally Posted by GLovedahl

Two other questions....I see references on here to the "original" Worthington LP tanks. I was going to simply take the two existing tanks to an LP retailer, and exchange them for two refurbished, filled tanks. Is that a bad idea? Is there anything different about the tanks that came with the trailer?

I would not want to trade original Worthington Aluminum tanks for the lower quality steel tanks. Your original Worthington Aluminum tanks have the potential of lasting as long as your trailer. Upgrading to OPD valves is a comparatively inexpensive operation when compared to the cost of new Worthington Aluminum tanks. While our Argosys came with painted Worthington Aluminum tanks, the paint can be stripped and the aluminum polished if you so desire as well. I consider the $80 that I spent having my original Worthington Aluminum tanks retrofitted with OPD valves and re-ceritification to be money well spent. The original Worthington Aluminum tanks disappeared from my Overlander between its sale to the second owner in 1980 and my acquisition in 1995, and in that case the two new Worthington Aluminum tanks (40 pound each) cost close to $250.

Originally Posted by GLovedahl

Finally, I think I'm going to replace the wooden cabinet doors that have been installed overhead where the Tambour doors once were. The channels are still there for tambour, and I've received some good advice on a different Argosy Forum about replacement tambour material. Is there any spring mechanism that the tambour wraps around, like the old window shades? Or does it simply roll up around itself as you raise the door? Is there any place that would have the original door pulls, or should I simply fashion some from whatever material I go with for the doors?

There are plastic "winders" at the top of the tambour channels. These "winders" are unique to Airstream/Argosy, and if missing, can be very difficult to find . . . not impossible, but difficult. There is no spring mechanism as they are based on the technology utilized in the roll-tops on Victorian roll-top desks. The same sources that sell tambour also offer tracks and "winders", but it will take some effort to adapt these modern replacement "winders" if original Airstream/Argosy components cannot be found. The bottom trim that functions as trim as well as the cabinet pull is one of those items that isn't readily available as new. An option is to craft wooden trim/pulls as the new tambours are created . . . or place a call-out to restorers who are either removing their tambours or who are in the process of a "gut" remodel. Again, the sources for the tambour material also often offer a bottom trim/handle material as well.

Good luck with your Minuet!

Kevin

[GLovedahl]

Thank you so much for your helpful advice. I think I'll scrap the idea of a laminate floor, since I don't think I could ever get that aluminum in the sort of shape it needs to be in to support the laminate, plus I suppose any filler would crack from the flexing, etc. of simply walking on the floor. I think the carpet squares might be what I'll go with....especially since we have three dogs, and replacing a square would be easier than doing the whole floor. Would you recommend any sort of underlayment to even out the low spots in the aluminum prior to putting the squares down?

Those tanks that are on the trailer must be steel, since they're rusty. Perhaps I should look into getting some aluminum tanks. I think they sell them at Camping World. I'll take a magnet out there and double check, just to make sure.

Thanks again for all your advice....it sure is useful and much appreciated.

Jerry

[GLovedahl]

Thanks, Kevin....that is some really good advice. I'm checking to see if the tanks are original (they're rusty, so I doubt it). I'm keeping a list of things I want to get done on the trailer, and the blasted thing just keeps getting longer!!! I think I'm going to paint the inside of the end cap with Por-15 White Coat...I think it would look better than the dull "cream" color that's there now. I also screwed up the switch on the three-way overhead light when I was trying to get it to work...it was completely stuck, and now it's a goner. If the switch I just got doesn't work, I might replace the entire fixture. I think owning one of these older trailers is a good way to get rid of any excess cash you might have. A few hundred here and few hundred there, and before long you're talking about real money......thanks again for your much appreciated advice.

Jerry

[DKB_SATX]

If they're rusty gas-grill-sized steel tanks, especially w/o OPD valves, your initial plan is probably good, just go swap them out for a temporary fix. That would get you safe, newer tanks for just the cost of the tank-swap propane that will hold you until you've run out of more pressing things to get nickeled and dimed over.

I only recall seeing steel Worthington tanks on display at the Camping World in south Fort Worth. All they list on their website is steel tanks as well. I think Northern Tool just carries the steel ones as well. I have no idea what a local propane distributor might sell them for, but Vintage Trailer Supply sells them. 30lb tanks START at $182, and go up if you want gauges or polished tanks. I'm sure I've seen polished tanks for sale on VTS' site before, but I didn't see any just now.

[Argonaut20]

My .02$ worth: Put in the laminate floor with single or double underlayment foam. You can lay it perpendicular to the long axis of the trailer and it will 'give' enough that the sway in the aluminum won't be noticeable unless there are real troughs in the floor. The laminate will make the floor less likely to bend any more than it is already. I found some laminate on sale at Home Depot and did the interior of my Minuet using the underlayment foam (very thin - about 1/8" thick). Some scatter rugs to deal with possible spills in the bath area were handy. Great improvement in looks and utility.

[Royce]

Originally Posted by Argonaut20

My .02$ worth: Put in the laminate floor with single or double underlayment foam. ...

I used the laminate floor with double underlayment foam and would not do it that way again. Single layer is sufficient and a better option in my opinion. Double layer has too much spring. Other than that I am very happy with the results. Easy to keep clean.

[woodlandfarm]

Just adding to the list. A Minuet 6.0 Bones are good, guts not so much but we didn't want them anyway. Summer project for next year.

[katrix]

Hi Minuet Owners,

My last post was about how we'd done all the frame resto, resealed the trailer and put the floor back in...and then we moved. And now I have to think about selling my Minuet 7.3 in AS IS condition. All appliances except hot water heater. No A/C. and all the messy, deal breaker stuff has been dealt with, ie rotten frame and floor and leaks. She's in pieces and parts but everything is there. This is a project, but just the reassembly. It's not pretty.

I'm posting here first before I make a plan, so if anyone has been thinking they'd like to take on a Minuet project, this might be the one for you. Private message me if you have any interest or know anyone who might be. I'm really looking for someone who wants to restore the trailer, not just turf all the pieces. The price would reflect the current condition.

[MIKO92]

Hello,
I just got a 1978 Minuet 6 Metre that spent the last 6 years in a Georgia pecan orchard. I take it in for inspection next week, and was wondering what type of new axle you had installed. Thanks for the time!

[adore]

Originally Posted by MIKO92

Hello,
I just got a 1978 Minuet 6 Metre that spent the last 6 years in a Georgia pecan orchard. I take it in for inspection next week, and was wondering what type of new axle you had installed. Thanks for the time!

I have a 1977. I got the axle for mine in 2008 from Inland RV. I ordered a complete assembly 12" brakes... (6 lugs) 3500 pounds. I believe the drop angle was 35 degrees and the axle had the shock brackets welded on the arm. The only information I had to give them was the serial number.

[cutndried]

We just purchased our 7.3 metre in March and immediately embarked on the complete teardown to the bare chassis. We are third owner, the second owner lived in the trailer for a few years and chain smoked the entire camper into a nasty yellow syrupy stank. It has only been about a month or so and we are full on into reconstruction. The cancer beneath the rear bath has been removed and new steel welded in place along with all new outriggers. New belly pan new rigid insulation and a new step to go with the newly sealed fresh plywood. We are making progress fast and picking up speed. I should be just about ready to replace the shell by the end of the week. Wish us luck

[cutndried]

Oh forgot, we live in Lake Jackson, TX. We had a hell of a hailstorm tonight. Tomorrow I start on electrical and decide whether or not to install out spare under the front of the trailer, apparently it was an dealer option back in the day and I can't find a better place for it.

[Luke55]

Hi Leigh,
Don't know if you are still here; I haven't read all 17pp of this thread yet. I just got my 1979 Minuet 6.7 from a flipper who cleaned the mildew, touched up the exterior paint and laid a vinyl plank wood grain floor. The trailer grabbed me with its wonderful windows providing light and outside views. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the non working fridge so it can be professionally inspected and will replace it with an electric for the time being. It looks like many of the pipe joints are leaking so I have that to fix. The rear underside of the trailer is practically a waterfall when the city water is connected and turned on. The water pump runs and provides a strong flow but it leaks terribly. I want to direct all the gray water into an onboard gray water tank. There is a Titan electric water heater that I think will eventually be replaced with an on demand gas heater. I was surprised to discover that there is no fan in either if the roof vents, so I have bought a fantastic fan to install in the rear vent opening. None of the front clearance lights work and I need some help with that also.
Luke
Western Carolina

[camper]

There is one for sale in tampa fl

[fluxcap]

Originally Posted by Luke55

None of the front clearance lights work and I need some help with that also.
Luke
Western Carolina

We had at least half of our clearance lights out when we pulled ours home. EVERY one that was out just turned out to be due to corrosion or a lose bulb contact. If you haven't already, try wiggling the bulbs a little bit to see if they light up. May just need to knock some of the years of scale buildup of the bulb holders.

[paddle whisp]

I'm just finishing the renovation of my 22' Argosy...
I've purchased a 30' Argosy 1979 with panoramic windows in front and back but think I'm going to sell her and take a break from restoration...
If you know anyone that's looking for an Argosy to restore... Send them my way.