Brake/Turn/running lights fuses-where are they?

[rogerdodger]

Are there fuses for the brake/turn run lights like I had in my 81 Excella II? I can't locate them. I would like to install a new cable with connector, but it goes into the frame and belly. Maybe on a Argosy they saved $$ and didn't install fuses?

If there are none, are they necessary? I remember the fuses causing headaches on my Excella, resistance making lights intermittent etc.

[TG Twinkie]

The only fuses in the exterior lighting and brake system operated by your TV should be in the TV, not the trailer.
You don't want the brakes failing on your trailer because of a blown fuse.
No fuses in the trailer for tail/marker, stop/turn signal, trailer brake circuits other than those in the TV.

[rogerdodger]

Ok. I did have fuses in the Excella, front wall behind the Goucho, along with the fuses for the internal lights. They had poor contact and I had to clean and adjust the prong tension. There was no fuse for the brakes, that wire went straight to the backing plates.

T G Twinkie, do you know if there is a way to get to the wiring in the trailer to install a new cord to the TV? Otherwise, I have to splice into the old cord at the trailer tongue, a little messy. Thanks for the response.

[TG Twinkie]

I replaced the last. 4 or 5 feet of my UCord by splicing it in to the old cord. I staggered the splices to make the tape job more smooth.
I just didn't feel it was worth it to tear into the belly pan.
If you decide to go this way get a good quality electrical tape such as Scotch 33 or 99 to do the tape job. When properly wrapped the spice will be water tight. Be sure to start wrapping on the sheath of the old or new cord. If you use crimp fittings it is not necessary to wrap the individual connections. Just start at one end and make about three wraps around the sheath perpendicular to the sheath. Then wrap at an angle where the tape has about 50% overlap until you get to the sheath on the other side of the splice. Then reverse the direction of the overlap and wrap to the other end. Hold tension on the tape to where you stretch it to about 3/4 of it's width. Make 5 or 6 passes across the splice overlapping the end. When you get to where you think you are about finished release the tension on the tape and make at least 3 wraps. If you don't release the tension for the final wraps the tape will eventually come lose at that end and unwrap. It will look tacky if that happens.
If you have the room on the old sheath wrap the tape at least 4" onto the sheath. Make sure it is clean before taping. Do your best to stretch the tape without breaking it. A continuous wrap is far superior to a collection of short wraps. Using a good quality tape will make the job go smoothly. The cheap stuff will break a lot easier.

[rogerdodger]

The PO wired a 7 pin round into the old cable, didn't leave me with a lot of extra to work with. I am going to try your method, I agree, it isn't worth opening up the belly if you don't need to. I will do it like you suggest. Do you think Goriila brand tape will work, or is the Scotch a better idea.
Thank you,

[Argosy Heir]

This box sold by Vintage Trailer Supply would be a clean way to make an exterior junction. If your Argosy is like my 76 , the cord goes through the belly pan, through the floor and to a set junction of breakers on the streetside next to or behind the front gaucho. (couch) Hope this helps.
7-Way Wiring Box

[TG Twinkie]

As far as I know the cable does not go to a box above the floor in my '74. I removed the gaucho and installed a dinette. There was nothing above the floor. Nor was there a hatch to gain access from above.
Don't know anything about Gorilla Tape. So I can't say one way or the other.
A good test for electrical tape is to pull about three inches from the roll, stretch it. If it will stretch to about 6" without breaking it has the right properties.

[Splitrock]

Mine are located under the cover inside the trailer where the 7-way enters the coach.



The previous owner removed the fuses and breakaway switch hook up. I installed new per the service manual drawings.

`

[rogerdodger]

The PO removed the goucho and table in mine, built a box to cover the fresh water tank. I don't see any box or way to get into the wall or floor.
I think I will use a battery and jumpers to test the lights before I wire in the new cable. Thanks for all the ideas.

[TG Twinkie]

I would use a battery charger to test the system, not a battery. A battery has an infinite amount of current and can blow stuff up. If you use a charger and come across a short the charger will crowbar and shut down. Nothing gets damaged.

[rogerdodger]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I would use a battery charger to test the system, not a battery. A battery has an infinite amount of current and can blow stuff up. If you use a charger and come across a short the charger will crowbar and shut down. Nothing gets damaged.

Yep, you ar right. I will use a charger. Thank you,

[rogerdodger]

I decided to take the round 7 pin connector apart, found all but 1 wire not connected. Did the test with charger, the running,left/right turn and backup all work. (Yippee something works on this old trailer.LOL) so I will use existing cable and put a 7 pin flat on it. Thanks all for the help. Now on to getting AC into the trailer. Another story, another day.
P.S. No wire to brakes exists. Will add when axles installed.

[CanoeStream]

Good goin' rodgerdodger.

Eight years ago I had to remove the front belly pan to repair floor under the tank on my '74 24' Argosy. Might as well park some documentation of the umbilical attachment when I worked on mine. I agree -- no fuses. The routing is pretty much the way Argosy Heir describes it.

The main junction connection is under the streetside armrest.




The umbilical runs along the streetside A-frame and enters through a grommeted hole in the belly pan.





Running vertically from that entry, it comes through the floor right at the edge of the water tank.




And here is the OEM view of the whole mishmash with the gaucho removed. The black hose to and from the water pump confuses the pic a bit but there is no mistaking this while working on the area. The junction panel in question is under the plastic shield at the top of the photo.




I labeled wires and unhooked the umbilical from the junction panel but don't have any pics under that shield. Go back two pictures ago to the umbilical entry through the floor -- there are a red wire, a blue wire and a red Romex going away from the junction panel back down through the floor. The Romex probably is the charging line going back to the Univolt. The red and blue wire probably supply the brakes and rear marker lights/taillights. These three enter the cutout holes in the streetside front frame to go aft (yellow arrow in the next pic).




Yes, that was the entire umbilical hung from the front overhead cabinet. I don't recall exactly but I presume the front marker light wire went directly upward from the junction panel.

No space was wasted in the original installation. So, either when you first see it or get it all put back together, it should look like this.

[rogerdodger]

Hi Bob, great pictures, thank you. I will look into it, but it seems Airstream did not have strict guidlines, so every coach seems to vary.
BTW I notice you are in St. Cloud Mn. I brought a Model T from St. Cloud to California in 1966, back when I was into Vintage cars. That was a trip we still talk about, placing the car on a trailer I had built and towing it at about 50 mph all the way to california. Beautiful country I might add. I worked for IBM, and was in Rochester for training. Now retired, AS is a hobby.

[susans69]

I use butt connectors with heat shrink waterproof connections. Beats out all that electrical tape which goes bad with time. They are available at WalMart or auto supply stores. Or you can order them on the internet for about $20 for 100 at MCM Electronics.