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Old 12-05-2016, 01:19 PM   #1
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1977 Argosy 24
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Bargman plug connections.

I am attmpting to wire the seven way plug on my Argosy. I have some questions.

1. The 'live' 12V terminal comes from the trailer battery. Will this terminal draw from the tow vehicle battery when parked and still connected.

2. If the electric brake terminal is showing grounded is this correct.

3. I jumped the 12V live terminal to the electric brake terminal and shorted the live terminal, where is the fuse for this.

Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2016, 01:34 PM   #2
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Wether the trailer will draw power from the TV when connected will depend upon the TV itself. some have a solenoid that prevents draw unless the ignition switch is on. I think most do not. You can check that with your meter. If it has voltage to the terminal with the switch off then it will draw power.

Do not know, but would expect the fuse to the hot line would be in the TV fuse block or inline to the plug.

The brakes should have some resistance to ground. Not sure how many ohms but more than zero. Maybe 1.5 to 2 ohms. So yes, it will look grounded. However if the fuse blew that would be indication you do have a short. Or perhaps the wrong wire with a light fuse in it.
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:57 PM   #3
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Power to the brake line should energize the brakes so that circuit should go to ground. Use a 12V battery as an outside source and connect to trailer ground and brake feed. You can hear the magnets in the brakes activate when power is applied to the brake circuit.
Fuses for all the circuits used to be in one place, usually near the battery and Univolt location. There is a big fuse in the line from battery + to the fuse block that you might overlook. Check them all. If memory serves me right, there is a three way tie in there that ties the 12V from the TV to the battery and to the trailer fuse block. I would look for the large fuse from the battery to be blown from what you describe.
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argonaut20 View Post
Fuses for all the circuits used to be in one place, usually near the battery and Univolt location. There is a big fuse in the line from battery + to the fuse block that you might overlook. Check them all. If memory serves me right, there is a three way tie in there that ties the 12V from the TV to the battery and to the trailer fuse block. I would look for the large fuse from the battery to be blown from what you describe.
The big fuses are good. The towing harness goes through "breakers". My understanding is that these breakers reset themselves. Does this sound familiar.
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Old 12-06-2016, 06:00 PM   #5
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The magnets are only about 3 ohms apiece, so that when you have 4 of them connected in parallel, you would only expect the measure about an ohm between ground and the brake supply line if all is well. Current at max braking would measure 12-13 amps typically.

Brian.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:21 PM   #6
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My Minuet did not have 'breakers' from the TV. The pigtail came in and fed the various exterior lights and brakes while the ground line hooked up to the trailer body and the 12V in went into connection with the 12V system of the trailer. The common feed went to the 12V fuses for the interior lights, water pump, etc. No auto reset there.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:32 PM   #7
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Try this page for a schematic:
http://www.preventionproject.us/1978...wiring-diagram
OR Post #5 here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ics-69394.html
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:15 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Argonaut20 View Post
Try this page for a schematic: OR Post #5 here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ics-69394.html
Would this schematic be for a 1978 vehicle and would need the plug to be rewired for today's TVs.
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Old 12-07-2016, 07:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Would this schematic be for a 1978 vehicle and would need the plug to be rewired for today's TVs.
No, you should not need to rewire.
As for the breakers, the brake controller manufacturers recommend using a breaker in the tow vehicle vs. a fuse. Makes sense to me; I wouldn't want a momentary malfunction to claim my trailer brakes unknowingly or in an emergency. I'm certain this is the "breakers" you referred to.
Neither of my two TVs isolate the TV battery from the power wire. I dislike this. I don't want to drain the TV starting battery while using the trailer. I intend to install an RV battery isolator. Two types: simple diodes and a more complex relay. Big difference in cost. Should be simple in the harness I recently added to my '73 Dodge TV because I installed it and know where everything is and what it does. My F-250 will be more difficult because it was wired at the factory so I'll need to trace things out in the wiring diagram.
I refuse to have anything but the standard 7-connector RV jack on any of my pickups because it IS standard. The other connectors all seem to have evolved over the years so they are poorly standardized if at all.
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:11 PM   #10
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7 pin wiring diagram for modern vehicles:
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Shows trailer side and TV side.

Unplug the connector when settled in a boon dock camp spot. That saves the TV battery from draining.
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Old 12-12-2016, 10:05 PM   #11
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I unplug the TV anytime I stop longer than five minutes.

An old trailer with a chassis ground is going to draw something all the time. A trailer battery with a bad cell could also draw current.

Even if everything is good, the batteries will equalize, ie the one with the higher voltage will charge the lower for a while.

The deep cycle battery is made for it, but none of this is good for the TV battery.
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