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Old 03-12-2012, 10:44 PM   #1
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1975 Argosy 26
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Axle replacement

So, what's really involved? Is it as simple as jacking up the Argosy with the scissor jacks, remove wheels and loosen the bolts from the frame? Or is it more involved and needing to remove gas lines etc?

If its a brute force job I can do it, if it involves special tools and finesse, Im not so sure.

Thoughts?

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Old 03-12-2012, 11:02 PM   #2
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Two big bolts on each side of the axle holding it on. Spray with lubricant a day in advance. There were no LP lines in the way of mine (74 safari).. There are brake lines to think about though, not sure on this since I just cut everything to replace later)..
Not too difficult really, just brute force, and they are heavy.
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:22 AM   #3
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I had to remove some gas lines - simple, just remove and replace. Tighten when done and check w/ soapy water for leaks. Soak bolts & nuts w/ penetrating oil (air tool oil works really well, btw) day before. If you have a moving dolly handy, they work well for sliding the axles underneath. If you have a helper, it's easier - but you can do it by yourself - I did.

Support trailer on jack stands, or do one axle at a time. If you've never raised a vehicle before on jacks, have someone show you how to do so
safely.

Brake wires are simple remove and replace. It really is simple.

Torque axle retaining bolts securely (tight as possible w/ 1/2 breaker bar is none too tight).

- Bart
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Old 03-13-2012, 03:43 AM   #4
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I find a transmission jack to be very helpful. It is a specialized tool, but it makes the job a lot easier, especially when working solo.
Do as Barts suggested and soak those bolt. If they do not come off easily, do not waste any more time and just cut them off with a torch or a cutting wheel. You can waste a lot of time struggling with bolts you are just going to replace.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:33 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
I find a transmission jack to be very helpful. It is a specialized tool, but it makes the job a lot easier, especially when working solo.
They are available at tool rental stores. The $20 or so fee will be money well spent.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:41 AM   #6
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On my previous AS I simply used two scissor jacks from some old Honda's I owned. Aligned the axles under the frame on the jacks, then just cranked them up in to place and put in the bolts. Pretty simple and I did them alone. Safety first though. It can be very dangerous working under there with the weight of the axles. Have fun!
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:01 AM   #7
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Here are a couple of threads that will provide some of the info that you need.

Top's axle replacement thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437...ead-74177.html

My axle replacement thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437...ent-83997.html

With the right tools and preparation it's not a difficult job.
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:16 AM   #8
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I put a set of axles on my unit about a month ago. Safety first! The new axles required some modification of the frame as the new axles were larger than the old axles. Found this out when trying to mount the first set of axles. After a little grinding fit right in. Broke two shock mount bolts and a phone call to Inland RV solved that problem. First set of axles took about 4 hours to set up, remove, remodel, and install. Second set took about 2 hours.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:41 AM   #9
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The axles tend to rotate on the pad on the jack so I built a cradle and bolted it to my floor jack. Didn't work very well so on the 2nd axle I used two floor jacks, one under each end of the new axle. The slots in the frame are tight and with a jack on each end it makes things go much easier. A cheap one will do if you have to buy one. Also, have a friend to help you, having another set of hands makes the process go much easier.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:57 AM   #10
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I was lucky enough to have a 4'x3' furniture dolly available...I laid an axle across it and used a 2x4 across (under the levers) to keep the hubs from turning down...

This dolly's large casters made it within a couple of inches of the frame, and after rolling this rig into place under the trailer, I used a floor jack to raise one side to start a couple of bolts, then the other side, etc....it went remarkably well for a first attempt!
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:15 AM   #11
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When you order your axles find out if they will be the same tube with, and if the brackets will be welded on when you get them. I just put axles under my 29' amb, mostly brute force little brains involved. We used two floor jacks to lift them into place, and to press them in. They were pretty snug. A floor dolly or some thing to set the axle on to roll it under the AS would have made things much better, and quicker. Also try to do the job on concrete pad, or if your stuck with gravel or dirt throw down a couple sheets of plywood. If will make rolling the things around much easier...
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:02 AM   #12
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Is it as simple as jacking up the Argosy with the scissor jacks,


Dont do it with the stabilizers on the trailer. Get a real floor jack and a set of jack stands.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riverrat6270 View Post
I put a set of axles on my unit about a month ago. Safety first! The new axles required some modification of the frame as the new axles were larger than the old axles. Found this out when trying to mount the first set of axles. After a little grinding fit right in. Broke two shock mount bolts and a phone call to Inland RV solved that problem. First set of axles took about 4 hours to set up, remove, remodel, and install. Second set took about 2 hours.
Very important point was made here, hope many of you pick up on this...
So, a free tip worth a number of beers around the campfire:
Many of you are going to heaver carrying capacities. When this happens, the axle tube size increases from(don't freaken call me out over a quarter inch or so, going by memory because I do not have to measure any longer, as I will soon point out) 2 3/4" to 3 1/2". You will need to cut out some of the mounting plate and re drill one hole. In order to make this easier, take a scrap of 1/4" plywood or something similar(not card board or paper something solid and stable) and make a copy of the mounting bracket on the axle. This will include the new notch, and both bolt holes. You can then use that template, to mark the mounting plate and use it to cut out and drill what you need. Use the one good bolt hole to align it to the mounting plate. It is very easy to hold up a few ounces of plywood as compared to holding up a 250 pound axle. This template can be used for all the new notches and you will be very pleased with how they just bolt right in. The template can be used over and over again and as I said you won't even have to measure.
Before you call it done, go find that tape measure and get yourself ready to use it. Measure from the center of the jack, back to the center of the hub on each side. They should be EXACTLY the same. Now when I say EXACTLY, I mean that. If one side says 126 13/16, the other side should say 126 13/16. If it says 126 3/4 or 126 7/8 you are in the wrong, and need to correct it. Yes, a 1/16 of an inch can make that much difference. If you say, good enough, you will be blowing tires and wearing them in odd ways until you go back and correct it. My master who trained me as a cabinet maker, had a very good saying when I was his apprentice, never liked then, but I now live by it; "If you do not have time to do it right the first time, why the $%@#* would you think you have time to do it over" Mr Mike Fitzgerald.(I am standing as I say his name, he deserves that much respect from me)
You hear jokes about balancing your running gear, aligning your axles and such. Well right here is where that joke becomes a reality.
You can take any of this advice or leave it. Just trying to help some of you so you do not have to learn the hard way as I seem to do.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:53 PM   #14
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I just replaced both axles on my '74 Argosy 26'. They both went in without any problem. I did increase the capacity of each axle from 2800# to 3000#. The new axle tubes were the same as the old axle tubes. I would think that if you go with the rated axle(s) or just slightly higher as I did, it won't be a problem.
Note: I did order the axles thru Inland RV so that may be why they fit correctly. They are Axis axles built to the Specs of my original Henchen (sp) axles.
I fabricated a fixture to attach to my floor jack and with the fixture centered on the axle I was able to lift the axle into position and install the bolts while working one.
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:16 PM   #15
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Inland RV could not be easier to deal with. Just give them your serial number and they do the rest. Their current sale has them at a real good price. Spring is the season, so if you are thinking about it, now is the time.
My last set from Inland were Dexters. I believe Axis is having issues getting hubs or something from China. The Dexter fit right in like they were made for it.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander

Very important point was made here, hope many of you pick up on this...
So, a free tip worth a number of beers around the campfire:
Many of you are going to heaver carrying capacities. When this happens, the axle tube size increases from(don't freaken call me out over a quarter inch or so, going by memory because I do not have to measure any longer, as I will soon point out) 2 3/4" to 3 1/2". You will need to cut out some of the mounting plate and re drill one hole. In order to make this easier, take a scrap of 1/4" plywood or something similar(not card board or paper something solid and stable) and make a copy of the mounting bracket on the axle. This will include the new notch, and both bolt holes. You can then use that template, to mark the mounting plate and use it to cut out and drill what you need. Use the one good bolt hole to align it to the mounting plate. It is very easy to hold up a few ounces of plywood as compared to holding up a 250 pound axle. This template can be used for all the new notches and you will be very pleased with how they just bolt right in. The template can be used over and over again and as I said you won't even have to measure.
Before you call it done, go find that tape measure and get yourself ready to use it. Measure from the center of the jack, back to the center of the hub on each side. They should be EXACTLY the same. Now when I say EXACTLY, I mean that. If one side says 126 13/16, the other side should say 126 13/16. If it says 126 3/4 or 126 7/8 you are in the wrong, and need to correct it. Yes, a 1/16 of an inch can make that much difference. If you say, good enough, you will be blowing tires and wearing them in odd ways until you go back and correct it. My master who trained me as a cabinet maker, had a very good saying when I was his apprentice, never liked then, but I now live by it; "If you do not have time to do it right the first time, why the $%@#* would you think you have time to do it over" Mr Mike Fitzgerald.(I am standing as I say his name, he deserves that much respect from me)
You hear jokes about balancing your running gear, aligning your axles and such. Well right here is where that joke becomes a reality.
You can take any of this advice or leave it. Just trying to help some of you so you do not have to learn the hard way as I seem to do.
When you make you measurement, where do you start from?
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:47 PM   #17
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When you make you measurement, where do you start from?
All you need to measure is the square cutout in the axle mounting plate, that accepts the square tube.

But, if need be, it's not difficult to enlarge and has no bearing on the axle alignment, since you would still use the same mounting holes for trailers from 1969 to present.

Andy
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:09 PM   #18
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All good advice. I plan on ordering the axle this weekend.

Dan
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:27 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

All you need to measure is the square cutout in the axle mounting plate, that accepts the square tube.

But, if need be, it's not difficult to enlarge and has no bearing on the axle alignment, since you would still use the same mounting holes for trailers from 1969 to present.

Andy
Well I just replaced my axles, the new ones required that I enlarge the square cut out about a .25 inch on the front and back of each notch. After reading this post I realized that I never measured to make sure they were exact. I'll have to check, it would be real easy to be 1/16 of an inch off...
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:35 AM   #20
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To make it easier on you exact-math-challenged people (y'all know who you are), You CAN simply make your axle mount notch cuts from one end only. Measure from the front and cut the back of each hole. That may mean the axles are an eighth to a quarter inch further back, but they will be as straight as they were originally.
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