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Old 03-13-2012, 05:16 PM   #15
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Inland RV could not be easier to deal with. Just give them your serial number and they do the rest. Their current sale has them at a real good price. Spring is the season, so if you are thinking about it, now is the time.
My last set from Inland were Dexters. I believe Axis is having issues getting hubs or something from China. The Dexter fit right in like they were made for it.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander

Very important point was made here, hope many of you pick up on this...
So, a free tip worth a number of beers around the campfire:
Many of you are going to heaver carrying capacities. When this happens, the axle tube size increases from(don't freaken call me out over a quarter inch or so, going by memory because I do not have to measure any longer, as I will soon point out) 2 3/4" to 3 1/2". You will need to cut out some of the mounting plate and re drill one hole. In order to make this easier, take a scrap of 1/4" plywood or something similar(not card board or paper something solid and stable) and make a copy of the mounting bracket on the axle. This will include the new notch, and both bolt holes. You can then use that template, to mark the mounting plate and use it to cut out and drill what you need. Use the one good bolt hole to align it to the mounting plate. It is very easy to hold up a few ounces of plywood as compared to holding up a 250 pound axle. This template can be used for all the new notches and you will be very pleased with how they just bolt right in. The template can be used over and over again and as I said you won't even have to measure.
Before you call it done, go find that tape measure and get yourself ready to use it. Measure from the center of the jack, back to the center of the hub on each side. They should be EXACTLY the same. Now when I say EXACTLY, I mean that. If one side says 126 13/16, the other side should say 126 13/16. If it says 126 3/4 or 126 7/8 you are in the wrong, and need to correct it. Yes, a 1/16 of an inch can make that much difference. If you say, good enough, you will be blowing tires and wearing them in odd ways until you go back and correct it. My master who trained me as a cabinet maker, had a very good saying when I was his apprentice, never liked then, but I now live by it; "If you do not have time to do it right the first time, why the $%@#* would you think you have time to do it over" Mr Mike Fitzgerald.(I am standing as I say his name, he deserves that much respect from me)
You hear jokes about balancing your running gear, aligning your axles and such. Well right here is where that joke becomes a reality.
You can take any of this advice or leave it. Just trying to help some of you so you do not have to learn the hard way as I seem to do.
When you make you measurement, where do you start from?
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithgrowe View Post
When you make you measurement, where do you start from?
All you need to measure is the square cutout in the axle mounting plate, that accepts the square tube.

But, if need be, it's not difficult to enlarge and has no bearing on the axle alignment, since you would still use the same mounting holes for trailers from 1969 to present.

Andy
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:09 PM   #18
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All good advice. I plan on ordering the axle this weekend.

Dan
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:27 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

All you need to measure is the square cutout in the axle mounting plate, that accepts the square tube.

But, if need be, it's not difficult to enlarge and has no bearing on the axle alignment, since you would still use the same mounting holes for trailers from 1969 to present.

Andy
Well I just replaced my axles, the new ones required that I enlarge the square cut out about a .25 inch on the front and back of each notch. After reading this post I realized that I never measured to make sure they were exact. I'll have to check, it would be real easy to be 1/16 of an inch off...
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:35 AM   #20
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To make it easier on you exact-math-challenged people (y'all know who you are), You CAN simply make your axle mount notch cuts from one end only. Measure from the front and cut the back of each hole. That may mean the axles are an eighth to a quarter inch further back, but they will be as straight as they were originally.
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:13 AM   #21
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Interesting that the new Inland's are Dexters...
Marc
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:31 PM   #22
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Interesting that the new Inland's are Dexters...
Marc
Not quite true.

We use Dexter, at this point, sometimes.

We also still use Axis, but only to the original Henschen specs.

That sometimes, depends on freight charges, if any, the axle ratings with respective brake sizes, and time.

Andy
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #23
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I don't know about Axis having a problem with the hubs. I ordered my axle through Colin. Colin is also a very easy way to order the axle. With Colin's experience I feel very confident it will fit correctly. I'll be picking it up on Monday and will keep these great tips and tricks close by when I install the axle.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:31 PM   #24
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I did my axles myself, yes both of them. I do not recomend it. Bribe a friend with alcohol and meat.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:16 PM   #25
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I am only gonna say this once more. I did ask my neighbor to help, only cause he had a Asphalt drive and it made it easy to move the old out and the new in. He has all the same tools I do. I was 70 yrs young at the time and we didnt have a problem the old came rite out and the new bolted rite in. I purchased mine from Inland. Andy was with me all the way from order time till I picked them up with my truck at the Henshen factory(before they closed). I am still happy with my axles.
Dan You said something about jacking up the trailer with the sissor jacks. I hope you didnt mean the jacks that are attached to the trailer. THOSE are STABILIZERS NOT JACKS. You will need two bottle jacks to raise your trailer if its a single axle and only wood blocking if its a tandem. GOOD LUCK
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:23 PM   #26
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drum/hub shortages ?

Just to let everyone know, I contacted the National Sales Manager at Axis today concerning the perceived shortage of drums/hubs.

This was his response: "There is no issue with hubs, drums or any parts availability. Fact: a result from our merger (with Alko) is that we produce the full line of drums and hubs made in the USA at two locations in the USA. This gives us 100 percent backup if there ever is an import delay. Right now, there is not an issue. We are busy with Spring orders. It's not inventory."

Hopefully this puts an end to this rumor.
Thanks,
Colin
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:44 AM   #27
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:40 PM   #28
Restorations done right
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
very important point was made here, hope many of you pick up on this...
so, a free tip worth a number of beers around the campfire:
Many of you are going to heaver carrying capacities. When this happens, the axle tube size increases from(don't freaken call me out over a quarter inch or so, going by memory because i do not have to measure any longer, as i will soon point out) 2 3/4" to 3 1/2". You will need to cut out some of the mounting plate and re drill one hole. In order to make this easier, take a scrap of 1/4" plywood or something similar(not card board or paper something solid and stable) and make a copy of the mounting bracket on the axle. This will include the new notch, and both bolt holes. You can then use that template, to mark the mounting plate and use it to cut out and drill what you need. Use the one good bolt hole to align it to the mounting plate. It is very easy to hold up a few ounces of plywood as compared to holding up a 250 pound axle. This template can be used for all the new notches and you will be very pleased with how they just bolt right in. The template can be used over and over again and as i said you won't even have to measure.
Just trying to help some of you so you do not have to learn the hard way as i seem to do.
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you need to compensate for the weld line around the axle tube...

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see there is a difference...

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The front hole is what we use to align everything. The bottom of the main frame rail is also an alignment point...

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The rear hole is usually off. A quality step bit will elongate the hole in the mounting plate in about 15 seconds. The mounting plate is much softer than the mounting bracket on the axle. We blast that hole after the axle is jacked into place and the front bolt is put into place.
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