awning replacement '76 Argosy

[arcamedies]

The awning on my 76 Argosy was the original yellow and white vinyl, what was left of it, sooo after I cut it off the cord in the track stayed, what is recommended to remove the cord that has welded itself to the top rail attached to the body?

I tried to remove the lag bolts on the ends and they promptly snapped off and trying an easy out they won't budge. I am assuming I need to move 1/4 inch over and drill new ones to put it back together. any suggestions?
Thanks

[Kevin245]

Will try to help, but a couple of questions first.

Did/does your awning look like the one on the picture?

Did you leave any of the fabric hanging from the rail?

Are you referring to the awning stowage clips that bolt to the awning rail? See the read arrow in the picture?

Have you removed the small keeper screws located in the top of the awning rail?

Kevin

[arcamedies]

yes it's the same setup as the photo although much much more weathered. There is a little fabric remaining, most tore clean up to the cord inside the rail and it seems welded from age (33 years). I got a small piece out and it is a hard white plastic so I am assuming that the original vinyl wrapped around it is what's welded to the rail tube. One of the owners used silicone to seal the lag bolts, but that can be drilled out.

[arcamedies]

The awning roller is off the arms and the awning came out of that ok. I assume I have to drill out the three rivets to remove an end cap to slide on the new awning, does it matter which end I remove?

[arcamedies]

Since the lag bolts snapped clean with the roof and using an easy out doesn't work, it looks like I may have to move over 1/2 inch and redrill new ones to secure the awning plates attached to the top of the rail.

[silverleeper]

These threads may help you. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f442...ail-48064.html and http://www.airforums.com/forums/f442...5.html.:wally:

[Kevin245]

So the stowage clip attachment bolts broke off? If so you can try to easy-out them, or drill them out all together. I would try to reuse the existing holes if at all possible.

As for the stuck fabric. There should be two or three retainer screws located along the top of the awning rail that is attached to your trailer. These screws (#4, or #6's) are put there to keep the awning fabric from sliding around in the track once the awning is installed. They need to be removed before he fabric will slide.

Even with the screws removed the fabric can be tough to slide. The accumulation of dirt and debris can make it a challenge. I've had success using two people, each pulling/tugging in unison. We've also used silicon spray lubes as well.

If there is no fabric sticking out you can use a metal scrapper/putty knife inserted in to the rail slot to try to nudge things along.

Regards,

Kevin

[kennethowens]

Post#4(above): drill out and disassemble both ends. Both ends
of the old Carefree have a large spring inside you will want
to clean and re-grease.

Drilling out those old bolts can lead to a very nasty hole(s).
Moving aside and caulking the tops of the broken bolts may
be the lesser of evils.

[Kevin245]

Originally Posted by arcamedies

The awning roller is off the arms and the awning came out of that ok. I assume I have to drill out the three rivets to remove an end cap to slide on the new awning, does it matter which end I remove?

No it does not matter which end you dis-assemble but it's probably a good idea to take both ends apart to clean and inspect things. The springs are not interchangeable so make sure you remember which one goes where when it's time to put things back together again.

Before you do...Make sure you're aware of the hazards associated with working with torsion springs. They can be very dangerous if not properly handled.

When you slide the springs out of the roller tube you'll need to be sure not to lose the small C-Slider that fits on one side of the torque arm. You can see an example of the Slider in the photograph below.

If your hardware is serviceable you can install new plastic end caps and put the awning system back in service. If your springs are shot, you will be hard pressed to find ready fit replacements.

As for the broken bolts, that's your call. Personally I would never add another hole in the skin of my TT unless there was no way to avoid it. The bolts are actually lag screws (typically) that are coarse threaded so there's not much bite holding them. Chances are they were galvanized and you're now dealing with the effects of galvanic corrosion with the aluminum ribs.

There are several removal approaches I have used in the past:

1. If the broken shank is exposed you can grip it with a pair of vise grips. Try soaking the seized portion with an anti seize spray such as Kroil for a few days, then attempt to twist the broken shank out of the hole.

2. Use an Easy-Out after soaking the seized shank for a few days.

3. Center punch the broken shank, then drill it out. Starting with a 1/16" +/- diameter bit and getting progressively larger with each pass.

Mine were 3/16" lags, but I could easily go up to a 1/4" diameter should the hole become a bit sloppy.

Best of Luck,

Kevin

[arcamedies]

Thanks everyone, that's a big help being able to look at the photos and diagram instructions to install one.

[kennethowens]

arcamedies,

Originally posted in:
Post #11
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...ion-50732.html

Post#3
#CanoeStream really helped me with http://www.airforums.com/photos/brow...00&userid=6410

You should remove both end caps to do the grease job.
The springs on both ends should be greased - alot of grease.
A word of caution about releasing things(anything) under
spring tension should be noted! Testing the springs...well...
an examination when you re-grease will be first. With them
out of the tube, you may want to "cock" the spings about 2-3
turns for a bench type test. A holding device other than the human
hand is wise. Fully extended (between 10 -14 full revolutions)
those buggers are strong and can hurt a person if suddenly released.

[DD.KARAOKE]

Does anyone know where I can purchase new/used an awning for my 76 argosy 20?
it has never had one, so I will need everything.
thanks
Dorian

[boatdoc]

Originally Posted by arcamedies

The awning on my 76 Argosy was the original yellow and white vinyl, what was left of it, sooo after I cut it off the cord in the track stayed, what is recommended to remove the cord that has welded itself to the top rail attached to the body?

I tried to remove the lag bolts on the ends and they promptly snapped off and trying an easy out they won't budge. I am assuming I need to move 1/4 inch over and drill new ones to put it back together. any suggestions?
Thanks

Hi arcamedies; Make sure that all rod retaining screws are out. PO may have added extras, so check top and bottom of the track. In case of extremely corroded roof track, using a very well sharpened old straight screwdriver, carefully cut trough plastic rod every 6 or so inches making sure not to gouge the track. Using a hammer and a round punch that just fits opening in the track, drive the cut off piece holding a punch at a low angle to the track. Shock from the hammer should loosen the corroded in rod. Repeat until you are red in the face as I was when I did my awning. Thanks, "Boatdoc"

[sharbours]

Hi, Dorian; welcome to the wonderful world of Argosys! We found our awning on Craigslist. Someone about 4 hours away was parting out an older Airstream, and we picked up the whole thing, including the curved arms, for $400. Getting it home was kind of fun; a 14 foot awning is a lot longer than it sounds when you're strapping it to the top of a Jeep! But it was a beautiful drive through the Columbia Gorge, so no complaints!

I understand you can buy new awnings, but I'm not sure you can still find the curved arms. We definitely are getting a lot of use out of ours & are glad we found it.

Good luck, and be sure to post pictures of your new home soon!

Sharon & Sean

[arcamedies]

A note to anyone who bought a PO airstream with a worn out awning and find that the PO added tons of gunk to the awning track attached to the roof. A new aluminum track ,12', only cost me $22, what a surprise that was, so grinding off the old factory rivets and reriveting the new one was a delight compared to the original now boogered up, gooped galore, one.