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Old 05-27-2005, 09:19 AM   #1
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Hey Everyone!

I have some questions about my '76 Argosy 26'

I want to repaint the front end cap and I found this code here: 44534-A and ask for Dupont Imron paint, is this correct?

Also, I hear a humming coming from the Univolt when I plug the trailer in, I do not have a battery in it yet. Is this normal?

And I want to buy stabilizer jacks that are seperate from the trailer b/c there is only one attached one left, so where would I place them under the trailer as to not damage the body?

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 05-27-2005, 09:49 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 76ArgosyDave
Hey Everyone!

Also, I hear a humming coming from the Univolt when I plug the trailer in, I do not have a battery in it yet. Is this normal?

Dave
Dave I have heard that you really need to have that battery in place. Plugging into 110 without the battery can have a detrimental effect. What I'm not sure as to what it affects. Its either your 12 volt components or the Univolt itself.

Jack
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Old 05-27-2005, 09:51 AM   #3
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Welcome Dave!
Cant help you on the paint.

Best place for the stabilizers if not permanently attached is on the frame where it exits the belly.

Humming univolt is normal for them. A lot of people are swapping out to IntlliPower with Charge Wizard. Its a little work and money but its Quiet and it also have a better Battery monitoring system thats not as likely to boil your batteries out.
http://www.bestconverter.com/view_category.asp?cat=39
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Old 05-27-2005, 10:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 76ArgosyDave
Hey Everyone!

I have some questions about my '76 Argosy 26'


And I want to buy stabilizer jacks that are seperate from the trailer b/c there is only one attached one left, so where would I place them under the trailer as to not damage the body?

Thanks,

Dave
Stabilizers would go on the frame, front and rear. The location of the frame can be determined by finding a line of rivets along the belly pan, near where the banana wrap joins it.
The number you found referring to Imron, is the paint code. It should be a beige-ish color.
The humming is coming from the Univolt, which is the power supply for your 12v dc system. It, along with a deep-cycle battery, run a myriad of things on your trailer, from the water pump, to the stove fan, to the trailer lighting. It is important that you have a battery in the system, as it tends to help regulate the voltage coming from the Univolt. If you don't have a battery, you can have as much as 20v in your 12v system, causing premature bulb and motor failures.
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:13 PM   #5
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I have my Argosy plugged in without a battery in it, just the Univolt. Where did you hear that this is harmful. I was told by the RV mechanic that it wasn't going to hurt anything. Am I wrong to leave it plugged in?
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:44 PM   #6
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Thank you for the help, this is good info, I will try and find a cheap battery until I decide to update the univolt.

I am also going to look for either scissor jacks or regular one for the Argosy.

One more question:

I am going to have my brakes looked at and the bearing checked out and replaced or repacked. As well as the tires balanced. Is working on the brakes and bearings difficult and should it be done by someone with expience in trailer mechanics or is it something someone with a bit of knowledge on this subject can handle themselves.

Thanks!
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:48 PM   #7
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juel.

That mechanic is "WRONG".

The battery acts as a filter, AND as a "regulator".

Operating the older univolts without a battery is a no no, period.

Yes people do it, and yes people get away with it. Some people can walk on glass, too.

Also, unfortunately, many owners compare the old Univolts to modern day Intellicharger, that doesn't make a noise.

The newer Airstream univolts don't make noise either.

Andy
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Old 05-27-2005, 01:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juel
I have my Argosy plugged in without a battery in it, just the Univolt. Where did you hear that this is harmful. I was told by the RV mechanic that it wasn't going to hurt anything. Am I wrong to leave it plugged in?
I have heard it from various folks on the Internet, but I remember now that I went into my owners manual and found a statement that noted that you should not be plugged into 110 without the battery being in place.

The answer to your second question is yes. Did you harm anything. Who knows? As Andy stated above, some people have done this and have not suffered any consequences.

Jack
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juel
Where did you hear that this is harmful. I was told by the RV mechanic that it wasn't going to hurt anything. Am I wrong to leave it plugged in?
Years of professional experience. If you don't believe us, and you have the tester, and know how to use it, you can check the voltage yourself across the empty battery cable ends with the Univolt plugged in. You will find voltage of at least 20vdc, and possibly more. Liken this to having 190 volts coming into your house, the proportion is similar. You may get away with it for a while, but something will break, and it will cost more than a $24.95 battery from Wal-mart. It doesn't have to be an expensive battery, just a 12v battery that will fit in the hole without the posts hitting anything metal.
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:36 PM   #10
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Some of the light bulbs will remind you of the old style "flash bulbs".

Maybe that's why we sell many boxes of ceiling light bulbs?

Andy
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Old 05-27-2005, 07:01 PM   #11
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...If you don't believe us, and you have the tester, and know how to use it, you can check the voltage yourself across the empty battery cable ends with the Univolt plugged in. You will find voltage of at least 20vdc, and possibly more...
That applies to Univolts of old where there was a separate tap to run motors.

Running a Univolt which only has leads to keep the battery charged without a battery attached will not hurt lightbulbs or 12 vdc motors. Lack of filtering will make the lights dimmer though.

I offered research in this thread.

A more indepth personal opinion is on my webpage under "Electrical".

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Old 05-27-2005, 07:39 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 76ArgosyDave
One more question:

I am going to have my brakes looked at and the bearing checked out and replaced or repacked. As well as the tires balanced. Is working on the brakes and bearings difficult and should it be done by someone with expience in trailer mechanics or is it something someone with a bit of knowledge on this subject can handle themselves.

Thanks!
Basically, it is very similar to repacking the front wheel bearings on, say, a 1974 AMC Matador with front drum brakes. The only real difference ia that instead of having to work around a wheel cylinder, you will have a magnet that should not get grease on it. Pop the dust cap off, remove the cotter pin and castle cap or nut, whichever it has, remove the washer between the nut and the outer bearing, remove the outer bearing, remove the inner grease seal. Clean the bearings and repack them Use new inner seals, reassemble. I did four wheels in about two hours, sitting on the side of a mountain last weekend, so it isn't tough.
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Old 05-27-2005, 07:49 PM   #13
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OK, OK. I've unplugged the Argosy and am off to get a battery. I believe now. Thank you all for your input. I honestly didn't know this was a No No. I did lose my water pump during the time I had the trailer plugged in. Now that I think about it, perhaps that's why it quit working. Of course it leaked, so I wanted to replace it anyway.
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