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Old 09-17-2006, 10:04 PM   #29
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1976 26' Argosy 26
St. Albert , Alberta
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Posts: 136
What is the Jewel in the picture?

This odd jewel is above the city water connection at the streetside rear of my Argy...er, does anyone know what it is? An indicator light maybe?

Cheers!
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:05 PM   #30
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1976 26' Argosy 26
St. Albert , Alberta
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Interior is cleaned out now

Pics of the interior now:
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:08 PM   #31
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1976 26' Argosy 26
St. Albert , Alberta
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Lower Rub Strip

Here's a pic of the lower rub strip that I want to remove to get to the seam where the skirt meets the lower aluminum body (the skirt is over the body, so water can get directly into the seam). I'm thinking of cleaning and just bondo-ing the seam and leaving the rub strip off. Anyone else have experience doing this?

Cheers!
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:10 PM   #32
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1976 26' Argosy 26
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Bondo-ing the PO bolt holes

Here are pics of the LARGE bolt holes left by misc items attached by the PO to the Argy...I'm thinking of bondo to cover them up. Is this a good idea...or <gulp> bad?

Cheers!
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Old 09-17-2006, 11:41 PM   #33
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1964 19' Globetrotter
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About the jewel...

I Think it's a polarity indicator - s'pose to do a stupid check for shore power....
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Old 09-20-2006, 11:49 PM   #34
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1976 26' Argosy 26
St. Albert , Alberta
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Rub rail is now off

Well, here it is without the lower rub rail. Boy, it was pretty cruddy underneath it! I wonder how I should seal the skirt onto the body?

Cheers!
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:44 PM   #35
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1976 26' Argosy 26
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Hot Water Tank sat on a Mushy Floor!

Well, what to do, the floor under the hot water tank is quite a mess!

I've heard that I can seal damaged floors with some kind of marine epoxy. I'll do a "search" for that I think.

Cheers!
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:47 PM   #36
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1976 26' Argosy 26
St. Albert , Alberta
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Plexiglass is Out Anyways

Well, at least this Argy is long enough that when I'm stumped with one area, I just move off somewhere else and deal with another issue for a while.

Well, removing the window was easier than I thought.

(Still haven't tackled that grey tank under the floor!)

Cheers!
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:09 PM   #37
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1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle , Washington
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Wow - here you go!

Some ideas - the battery box. If there is at least some wood, you can take a tip from home remodelers and drill some holes, and fill them with an epoxy mixture - there are some ads for this type of thing in This old house, among others. OR, you could cut it out and replace it (look at Airstreamlife.com - find Vintage Thunder. I know Rich did this with his Argosy.).

Rub rail - Vulkum is the sealant of choice for aluminum trailers. That should keep the water out.

Those holes - I'm just worried with the amount of flexing that the shell does over bumps - the bondo may come off - especially at the door area (see slamming door against door frame). Will an Olympic rivet cover it, or maybe a small patch? I don't have automotive body repair experience, but that's my thoughts.

That window sure looked like it came out easily. Did you get a replacement?
Marc
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:20 AM   #38
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Riverhead , New York
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The product is called Gitrot, then I would fiberglass that area. You will never deal with it again.

A lot of folks here are tearing out floors that don't need to be.

JUst glass over and it will be solid again. I plan on doing my whole floor this weekend will post pic's.
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Old 09-23-2006, 09:40 AM   #39
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1976 26' Argosy 26
St. Albert , Alberta
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Gas Regulator Connection needs Teflon tape?

I've taken the Propane Tanks to a local propane shop that can replace the old valves for OPD (Overfill Protection Device) valves. They need to flare off the propane inside though, a bit of a waste, but I can't burn it all in time .

Anyways, I took the gas regulator off too, but they said to test it with soapy water and if it doesn't leak, it's fine (replacement for the hoses and the regulator would have run CAN$120).

They said the tanks can be blasted clean, and they would put the new valves on AFTER the exterior had been worked on so the new valves wouldn't get damaged (an extra trip or two, but good idea I thought).

Also, they were 30# aluminum tanks and apparently cost CAN$250 each to replace.

Question: when the regulator is put back on the gas fitting, do I need to use teflon tape (as in water plumbing connections)? Or is there some kind of similar yellow colored tape I seem to recall a gas fitter using?

Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2006, 03:43 PM   #40
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hmmm

I believe you do NOT use gas specific tape for flare fittings - I think the flare wouldn't seat properly? I don't remember using any for my contections.

Soap test after.
Marc
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:18 AM   #41
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1976 24' Argosy 24
Milford , New Jersey
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Good Morning Chopper, How's the project coming along? No teflon tape on gas connections. It' people like you that give people like me inspiration, I look at the small stuff I've been putting off on my Argosy and say What am I waiting for look at this guy. Although the thought occured to me that you might be retired, and if so, I'm just more jealous. Good luck, keep the posts coming.
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Old 10-04-2006, 10:45 AM   #42
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1976 26' Argosy 26
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Retired? I wish!

Well, I admit that I have to fill my time when I'm at the staging yard 'cause I'm either on my way home after work, or I'm sneaking an hour or two between the kid's karate classes and housework.

If I had more time to think about it, I'd probably not be attacking the project so aggressively, but winter's chasing me down and it'll get too cold to work on it unless I find some heated space soon!

My current search is for Olympic rivets and a head shaver so that I can fill up those multitude of holes on the exterior. IF I'm lucky, we'll have a hot stretch before Halloween and my Argy will get a paint job!

Cheers!
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