Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-13-2018, 02:19 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
steve0white's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 28
2021 27' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids , Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
Argosy Battery, Box, and Converter Upgrade Questions

Hello,
We have a 1976 Argosy 28' center bath. The battery compartment is road side by the wheel wells underneath the lower shelf of the wardrobe. The old Triad converter is there as well.

The battery box only fits a Group 24 battery and would like to upgrade to dual batteries and new converter as well.

From what I've read so far: If we go with AGM, then we can just remove the old box. If we stick with lead acid, the the compartment needs to be sealed.

I found a thread that had showed building out a new box. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...eds-80469.html

Anyone else upgrade the converted and batteries in theirs? Any recommendations on what to replace the batteries and triad with?

I uploaded some old photos I had of the current equipment.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0181.jpg
Views:	167
Size:	120.5 KB
ID:	306288   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0150.jpg
Views:	227
Size:	191.4 KB
ID:	306289  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0151.jpg
Views:	150
Size:	143.6 KB
ID:	306290   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0530.jpg
Views:	167
Size:	186.3 KB
ID:	306292  

steve0white is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2018, 02:49 PM   #2
Moderator
 
DKB_SATX's Avatar

 
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,493
Images: 1
Blog Entries: 7
My plan for the '76 center-bath was to go AGM and bring the batteries fully inside. There's plenty of room in the bottom of the closet where the old battery box is, and the converter... I figured if I got crazy I could get 4 6v beasts in there, though if I were planning it now I might spring for a high-quality lithium setup like Battle Born, since being in that closet in the conditioned space of the trailer would get around the cold-weather charging problems with lithium.

Of course I totally lost my sense of perspective somewhere along the way and instead of expensive batteries I bought a new expensive center-bath trailer... ooops. (The 26U is so close to the floor plan of the 28A that it helps me get over the guilt of abandoning the project)
__________________
— David

Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566

He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
DKB_SATX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2018, 08:30 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
rugjenkins's Avatar
 
1975 Argosy 28
Springville , Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
Progressive dynamics has a great all in one converter (pd4045). No idea on the batteries- I'm not there yet
__________________
Matt
rugjenkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2018, 06:33 PM   #4
SMK
2 Rivet Member
 
1975 Argosy 24
Marshall , Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 32
Converter

I used a Progressive Dynamics Mighty Mite 60 amp service.
SMK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2018, 08:51 PM   #5
2 Rivet Member
 
steve0white's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 28
2021 27' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids , Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by rugjenkins View Post
Progressive dynamics has a great all in one converter (pd4045). No idea on the batteries- I'm not there yet


Thanks for the recommendation. On the PD4045, did you replace the ac panel too? The ac panel (rear corner) isn’t right next to the converter, so it would take some additional wiring to do that for me.
steve0white is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2018, 09:01 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
rugjenkins's Avatar
 
1975 Argosy 28
Springville , Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
It has an a/c panel, d/c panel,converter, and batt charger all in one. Great quality and everything is in compact professional panel and a great price. I got mine on amazon. It will replace all your old stuff. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0661.JPG
Views:	180
Size:	301.6 KB
ID:	306363
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0662.JPG
Views:	137
Size:	340.3 KB
ID:	306364
__________________
Matt
rugjenkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2018, 05:43 AM   #7
2 Rivet Member
 
1976 Argosy 28
San antonio , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 31
We just picked up our new to us '75 Argosy 28 center bath. Im told the battery wont charge so I assume its a bad old converter like you guys.

Looking into what you suggest the PD4045. Can you show some pics of what you did? Our AC panel is in the back corner also and for now i would like to keep the new battery we were given.

Thanks for any help!
Whit461 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2018, 05:47 AM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
1976 Argosy 28
San antonio , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 31
Also, Steve0white, what did you end up doing? Can you share pics?
Whit461 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2018, 11:09 AM   #9
3 Rivet Member
 
newsgauger's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 28
Milton , Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 195
Hello All, it has been awhile since we have worked on our '76 Argosy, 28 footer with Centre Bath, as life just got in the way for too many years. We are going to replace the Group 24 battery with two (2) 6-volt Rolls Deep Cell batteries (wet cell, 230 AHr each) in the next month or so. And are contemplating the same issues as stated here.

My thought is to place them up front right behind the propane tanks and run the power line(s) back to the Progressive Dynamics Model PD4655 (55 Amp). Or, remove the old plastic Group 24 box and put in a new box that would vent to the outside through the existing battery door.

Any inside advise would be greatly appreciated and we look forward to following along.
Chris

Of note, SteveOwhite...I moved the Hydro panel from the corner to the middle of the wall so it sits under the vanity. That way we do not need to left the bed to turn on and off street power every time. Just make sure you tie those couple of wires together in the small metal electrical box. that way if you have to trouble shoot, those joints that are tied behind the wall.
newsgauger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2018, 03:27 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
Argonaut20's Avatar
 
1966 17' Caravel
Currently Looking...
Las Cruces , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 577
AGM batteries do away with the vent problems of lead acid batteries. Progressive dynamics units are a great improvement over the original and they are pretty much plug and play. You can leave the 120V system alone unless you are redoing the entire electrical system.
__________________
1966 Airstream Caravel
2006 Toyota Tacoma
Argonaut20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2018, 09:06 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
IMHO the converter and batteries should be as close together as possible. (Practical).
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 06:35 AM   #12
3 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Elk Rapids , Michigan
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 173
Images: 7
Yes, high current stuff should be located close together to avoid having to run large wires which are heavy and expensive. Here's a link to the blue sea circuit wizard that can help you figure out what size conductor you need for your circuit.

http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/#

It's based on ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) standards, but I find there's a lot of crossover between the work I do on boats and our trailers.


One thing I've done though that's definitely not to "standard" is when I put two lead acid batteries in a non-sealed area of my trailer. What I did to make sure hydrogen gas wasn't building up is a put a small fan in the bathroom closet that runs off 110v plugged directly into the outlet my converter is hooked to. That way whenever the charger is running the fan is circulating the air near the batteries. Not a perfect solution but it got me out camping when I didn't have time to build a vented box. Not suggesting anyone else do what I did, just applying a little common sense engineering to solve the problem of a busted battery box and wanting two batteries for the trip....


John
matthewsx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 08:15 AM   #13
Rivet Master
 
DavidsonOverlander's Avatar
 
1964 26' Overlander
1974 31' Sovereign
Milton , ON
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,223
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewsx View Post
One thing I've done though that's definitely not to "standard" is when I put two lead acid batteries in a non-sealed area of my trailer. What I did to make sure hydrogen gas wasn't building up is a put a small fan in the bathroom closet that runs off 110v plugged directly into the outlet my converter is hooked to. That way whenever the charger is running the fan is circulating the air near the batteries. Not a perfect solution but it got me out camping when I didn't have time to build a vented box. Not suggesting anyone else do what I did, just applying a little common sense engineering to solve the problem of a busted battery box and wanting two batteries for the trip....

John
I vented mine into a plumbing vent. There's a hole in the bottom of the battery box that goes into the belly pan and an ABS connection on the side of the box that goes to the adjacent plumbing vent. It's connected to the vent line above the level of the sink drains.
__________________
1974 Sovereign
2005 F-350 SRW 4x4 crew cab long box
TAC ON-5

1965 Avion C-10 Truck Camper (65avion.home.blog)
DavidsonOverlander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 05:39 AM   #14
2 Rivet Member
 
steve0white's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 28
2021 27' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids , Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
Boondocker Converter Chassis Ground Lug

I kept the single battery and battery box in there for now as-is. I am replacing the fuse panel and converter with blue sea systems fuse block and Boondocker 45 amp.

However I don't know what to connect to the chassis ground lug on the converter. (positive to positive converter side of fuse block, negative converter side to negative side of fuse block)

I connected the 8 gauge white wire from under the gaucho, which is connected to the chassis (I think), to the negative bus of the fuse block. Should this be connected to the chassis ground? Or should I connect the converter to the AC ground wire? Or run a new chassis ground (if so any suggestions on how)?

Thanks,
Steve
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3777.JPG
Views:	99
Size:	147.8 KB
ID:	313900   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3779.JPG
Views:	108
Size:	111.1 KB
ID:	313901  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3781.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	110.3 KB
ID:	313902  
steve0white is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 08:19 PM   #15
3 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Elk Rapids , Michigan
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 173
Images: 7
You should have a DC ground wire running from the front fuse/circuit breaker where the trailer pigtail comes in. Don't tie it in with AC, if you need to, run a new wire. Make it big enough that your battery can charge from TV current while running.
matthewsx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2018, 07:58 AM   #16
2 Rivet Member
 
1976 Argosy 28
San antonio , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 31
Yes, tie the white ground to the negative bus on the fuse block. That is exactly what we did.
Whit461 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2018, 08:01 AM   #17
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
IMHO there is confusion on what is "ground" and what is common/ ground.
The chassis ground on the converter should be tied to the chassis ground on the coach. It can be done with a heavy wire going directly from point to point.
The common/ground is the negative side of the DC circuit. It is also tied to the frame or chassis of the coach. It includes the commonly/ ground or negative from the house battery, the common/ground or negative from the converter and the common/ ground or negative from the TV.
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2018, 09:57 AM   #18
Rivet Master

 
2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
The grounding scheme in the Airstream also includes bonding the 120 volt AC power panel ground buss (safety earth) to the frame and shell of the Airstream.

My International has two heavy bare copper ground leads, one on the battery negative side, and one from the ground buss bar in the load center run under the Airstream to two honking big ground lugs bolted to the frame of the Airstream. Personally, I would have preferred heavy marine-grade waterproof (flooded with dielectric grease) stranded wire, but this will work for now.

The lugs are deliberately out in the open so that they may be inspected for corrosion, tightened if necessary, and maintained in a safe condition. They should be checked regularly, because that is part of your electrical safety and lightning protection...
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
rmkrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2018, 05:55 AM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
steve0white's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 28
2021 27' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids , Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
How to make a chassis ground?

Thanks for all the info.
There was no chassis ground when I took everything out.

Any recommendations on how to do so? Just drill some finder holes till I hit the frame? Then drill a bigger hole and chassis ground it that way?

Or try to access frame near the vent pipe in the closet?

Should the negative on the battery be run to the chassis ground as well?

Thanks,
Steve
steve0white is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2018, 07:48 AM   #20
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Look in the trunk where the shore power cable goes thru the floor. There may be a heavy #6 solid copper wire attached to the frame near there. You should see where that wire enters the AC power panel as well. You can use the same (earth) ground point where the solid wire connects.
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Converter, battery, and fuse box location in '77 Argosy 28 CB StephSH Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 1 08-10-2019 01:20 PM
Battery box upgrade silverbacksurfer Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 12 12-17-2015 12:37 PM
Converter,battery and solar upgrade SilverSinbad Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 2 01-19-2015 10:57 AM
I have 3 boxes of assorted parts from my airstream 59 Tradewind, I would like to sell by the box for 300.00 per box or best offer per box 59as Airstream Classifieds 0 09-19-2014 11:01 AM
locks for battery box and propane box Chilao Doors & Locks 11 11-02-2004 06:56 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.