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03-13-2018, 02:19 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 28
2021 27' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
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Argosy Battery, Box, and Converter Upgrade Questions
Hello,
We have a 1976 Argosy 28' center bath. The battery compartment is road side by the wheel wells underneath the lower shelf of the wardrobe. The old Triad converter is there as well.
The battery box only fits a Group 24 battery and would like to upgrade to dual batteries and new converter as well.
From what I've read so far: If we go with AGM, then we can just remove the old box. If we stick with lead acid, the the compartment needs to be sealed.
I found a thread that had showed building out a new box. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...eds-80469.html
Anyone else upgrade the converted and batteries in theirs? Any recommendations on what to replace the batteries and triad with?
I uploaded some old photos I had of the current equipment.
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03-13-2018, 02:49 PM
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#2
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Moderator
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,493
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My plan for the '76 center-bath was to go AGM and bring the batteries fully inside. There's plenty of room in the bottom of the closet where the old battery box is, and the converter... I figured if I got crazy I could get 4 6v beasts in there, though if I were planning it now I might spring for a high-quality lithium setup like Battle Born, since being in that closet in the conditioned space of the trailer would get around the cold-weather charging problems with lithium.
Of course I totally lost my sense of perspective somewhere along the way and instead of expensive batteries I bought a new expensive center-bath trailer... ooops. (The 26U is so close to the floor plan of the 28A that it helps me get over the guilt of abandoning the project)
__________________
— David
Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566
He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
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03-14-2018, 08:30 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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Progressive dynamics has a great all in one converter (pd4045). No idea on the batteries- I'm not there yet
__________________
Matt
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03-14-2018, 06:33 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 24
Marshall
, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 32
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Converter
I used a Progressive Dynamics Mighty Mite 60 amp service.
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03-14-2018, 08:51 PM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 28
2021 27' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugjenkins
Progressive dynamics has a great all in one converter (pd4045). No idea on the batteries- I'm not there yet
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Thanks for the recommendation. On the PD4045, did you replace the ac panel too? The ac panel (rear corner) isn’t right next to the converter, so it would take some additional wiring to do that for me.
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03-14-2018, 09:01 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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It has an a/c panel, d/c panel,converter, and batt charger all in one. Great quality and everything is in compact professional panel and a great price. I got mine on amazon. It will replace all your old stuff.
__________________
Matt
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05-14-2018, 05:43 AM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 28
San antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 31
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We just picked up our new to us '75 Argosy 28 center bath. Im told the battery wont charge so I assume its a bad old converter like you guys.
Looking into what you suggest the PD4045. Can you show some pics of what you did? Our AC panel is in the back corner also and for now i would like to keep the new battery we were given.
Thanks for any help!
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05-14-2018, 05:47 AM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 28
San antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 31
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Also, Steve0white, what did you end up doing? Can you share pics?
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05-24-2018, 11:09 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 28
Milton
, Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 195
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Hello All, it has been awhile since we have worked on our '76 Argosy, 28 footer with Centre Bath, as life just got in the way for too many years. We are going to replace the Group 24 battery with two (2) 6-volt Rolls Deep Cell batteries (wet cell, 230 AHr each) in the next month or so. And are contemplating the same issues as stated here.
My thought is to place them up front right behind the propane tanks and run the power line(s) back to the Progressive Dynamics Model PD4655 (55 Amp). Or, remove the old plastic Group 24 box and put in a new box that would vent to the outside through the existing battery door.
Any inside advise would be greatly appreciated and we look forward to following along.
Chris
Of note, SteveOwhite...I moved the Hydro panel from the corner to the middle of the wall so it sits under the vanity. That way we do not need to left the bed to turn on and off street power every time. Just make sure you tie those couple of wires together in the small metal electrical box. that way if you have to trouble shoot, those joints that are tied behind the wall.
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05-25-2018, 03:27 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1966 17' Caravel
Currently Looking...
Las Cruces
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 577
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AGM batteries do away with the vent problems of lead acid batteries. Progressive dynamics units are a great improvement over the original and they are pretty much plug and play. You can leave the 120V system alone unless you are redoing the entire electrical system.
__________________
1966 Airstream Caravel
2006 Toyota Tacoma
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05-25-2018, 09:06 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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IMHO the converter and batteries should be as close together as possible. (Practical).
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05-28-2018, 06:35 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Elk Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 173
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Yes, high current stuff should be located close together to avoid having to run large wires which are heavy and expensive. Here's a link to the blue sea circuit wizard that can help you figure out what size conductor you need for your circuit.
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/#
It's based on ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) standards, but I find there's a lot of crossover between the work I do on boats and our trailers.
One thing I've done though that's definitely not to "standard" is when I put two lead acid batteries in a non-sealed area of my trailer. What I did to make sure hydrogen gas wasn't building up is a put a small fan in the bathroom closet that runs off 110v plugged directly into the outlet my converter is hooked to. That way whenever the charger is running the fan is circulating the air near the batteries. Not a perfect solution but it got me out camping when I didn't have time to build a vented box. Not suggesting anyone else do what I did, just applying a little common sense engineering to solve the problem of a busted battery box and wanting two batteries for the trip....
John
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05-28-2018, 08:15 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1964 26' Overlander
1974 31' Sovereign
Milton
, ON
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewsx
One thing I've done though that's definitely not to "standard" is when I put two lead acid batteries in a non-sealed area of my trailer. What I did to make sure hydrogen gas wasn't building up is a put a small fan in the bathroom closet that runs off 110v plugged directly into the outlet my converter is hooked to. That way whenever the charger is running the fan is circulating the air near the batteries. Not a perfect solution but it got me out camping when I didn't have time to build a vented box. Not suggesting anyone else do what I did, just applying a little common sense engineering to solve the problem of a busted battery box and wanting two batteries for the trip....
John
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I vented mine into a plumbing vent. There's a hole in the bottom of the battery box that goes into the belly pan and an ABS connection on the side of the box that goes to the adjacent plumbing vent. It's connected to the vent line above the level of the sink drains.
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06-13-2018, 05:39 AM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 28
2021 27' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
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Boondocker Converter Chassis Ground Lug
I kept the single battery and battery box in there for now as-is. I am replacing the fuse panel and converter with blue sea systems fuse block and Boondocker 45 amp.
However I don't know what to connect to the chassis ground lug on the converter. (positive to positive converter side of fuse block, negative converter side to negative side of fuse block)
I connected the 8 gauge white wire from under the gaucho, which is connected to the chassis (I think), to the negative bus of the fuse block. Should this be connected to the chassis ground? Or should I connect the converter to the AC ground wire? Or run a new chassis ground (if so any suggestions on how)?
Thanks,
Steve
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06-13-2018, 08:19 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Elk Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 173
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You should have a DC ground wire running from the front fuse/circuit breaker where the trailer pigtail comes in. Don't tie it in with AC, if you need to, run a new wire. Make it big enough that your battery can charge from TV current while running.
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06-14-2018, 07:58 AM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 28
San antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 31
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Yes, tie the white ground to the negative bus on the fuse block. That is exactly what we did.
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06-14-2018, 08:01 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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IMHO there is confusion on what is "ground" and what is common/ ground.
The chassis ground on the converter should be tied to the chassis ground on the coach. It can be done with a heavy wire going directly from point to point.
The common/ground is the negative side of the DC circuit. It is also tied to the frame or chassis of the coach. It includes the commonly/ ground or negative from the house battery, the common/ground or negative from the converter and the common/ ground or negative from the TV.
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06-14-2018, 09:57 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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The grounding scheme in the Airstream also includes bonding the 120 volt AC power panel ground buss (safety earth) to the frame and shell of the Airstream.
My International has two heavy bare copper ground leads, one on the battery negative side, and one from the ground buss bar in the load center run under the Airstream to two honking big ground lugs bolted to the frame of the Airstream. Personally, I would have preferred heavy marine-grade waterproof (flooded with dielectric grease) stranded wire, but this will work for now.
The lugs are deliberately out in the open so that they may be inspected for corrosion, tightened if necessary, and maintained in a safe condition. They should be checked regularly, because that is part of your electrical safety and lightning protection...
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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06-15-2018, 05:55 AM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 28
2021 27' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
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How to make a chassis ground?
Thanks for all the info.
There was no chassis ground when I took everything out.
Any recommendations on how to do so? Just drill some finder holes till I hit the frame? Then drill a bigger hole and chassis ground it that way?
Or try to access frame near the vent pipe in the closet?
Should the negative on the battery be run to the chassis ground as well?
Thanks,
Steve
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06-15-2018, 07:48 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Look in the trunk where the shore power cable goes thru the floor. There may be a heavy #6 solid copper wire attached to the frame near there. You should see where that wire enters the AC power panel as well. You can use the same (earth) ground point where the solid wire connects.
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