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Old 08-19-2011, 08:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Phrunes
Thought we could all use a pick me up! Here are some pics after front and rear subfloor replacement and new flooring and toilet shelf installed in the 76 Argy. There is hope!
Looks great! I like the color of the flooring...what's your plan for cabinets?
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:42 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by my3sonsdad

Looks great! I like the color of the flooring...what's your plan for cabinets?
THANKS! Me too...but, it now defy's the hillbilly exterior! Hahaha I guess now I'll have to paint the exterior?

Cabinets...I'm working on that. I def. want to use SOMETHING AS specific, like the overheads ( updated of course). The bulkheads are next on the list, Im gonna make them out of pecan 1/4" (doubled up) with a core of insulating panels for some sound deadining.
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:09 AM   #17
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Ended up taking up the sub floor in the front. Rotted straight through in the front where the fresh water tank lives (gee do ya think?!). Had a tussle with it for sure since the channel that takes the plywood was bent in a few places. But it's in now. Cutting the bolts that keep the shell in place was a bear. Hardened steel was giggling at a saws all! So as soon as we can secure it our plan is to deck the entire floor again. Gotta check out the bathroom 1st though. Really intimidated by the bathroom. Not sure at all what it's about, not sure about how to replace the toilet or re-paint shower or basin. Thank goodness I got peeps who do know about this stuff!
Take all the banding off first, then each piece comes apart pretty easy, take pictures as to how they fit originally. Take height measurement of the toilet platform, for when you build a new one (so everything goes back together where it should). My floor was pretty soft so I added some steel L-channel and a layer of 3/8 ply w/ PL Premium to stiffen it up. I painted all the fixtures with Rustoleum Plastic spray paint, it worked really well. The bathroon was the most work, be patient.

Good Luck
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:50 AM   #18
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Measure the current distance from the floor to the top of the toilet surround (or base of the screw on or outer toilet flange). Get it and save it! When and if you install new flooring under the toilet/sink basin surround it will throw the whole thing off unless you adjust to accomodate the increased height. In simpler terms: make sure your final installed toilet surround is the same height it is now. If you get it wrong, the toilet flange will not have enough thread showing to properly screw into the black tank. The closet or toilet flange used with threads (4x3) is hard enough to find, you will never find a longer one! Don't ask how I know this. blush.
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:57 AM   #19
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Beautiful work!
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:26 AM   #20
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Beautiful work!
Thank you Bex!
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:15 PM   #21
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[QUOTE=Phrunes;1035156]THANKS! Me too...but, it now defy's the hillbilly exterior! Hahaha I guess now I'll have to paint the exterior?


Embrace the "Hillbilly" exterior. This gets some laughs when were camping.
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:52 PM   #22
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Anyone venture to estimate the number of rivets holding up a bellypan of a 26' argosy?

JC service center says 100 or "most" of mine are missing based on their 26 point inspection. What would that tell you about a recently acquired Argosy? Sounds to me like someone took it off, didn't like what the saw, and did the minimum to reattach it. At least I won't have so many to remove when I take my own peek!

Something else that was odd...the furnace was working but wasn't bolted down?

Should I be concerned about towing this 500 miles in this condition?

Over all the SC inspection didn't appear to turn up anything major....just 50+ small things they'd like to fix for me, for $1500 in parts & $6000 in labor, which didn't include new axles....that was another $3K, but it didn't appear to need them.

Looks like I now have my winter weekend to do list!
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:17 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by my3sonsdad
Anyone venture to estimate the number of rivets holding up a bellypan of a 26' argosy?

JC service center says 100 or "most" of mine are missing based on their 26 point inspection. What would that tell you about a recently acquired Argosy? Sounds to me like someone took it off, didn't like what the saw, and did the minimum to reattach it. At least I won't have so many to remove when I take my own peek!

Something else that was odd...the furnace was working but wasn't bolted down?

Should I be concerned about towing this 500 miles in this condition?

Over all the SC inspection didn't appear to turn up anything major....just 50+ small things they'd like to fix for me, for $1500 in parts & $6000 in labor, which didn't include new axles....that was another $3K, but it didn't appear to need them.

Looks like I now have my winter weekend to do list!
Mine had 8 in the rear section two piece bellypan. Maybe ours were built on a Friday at quittin time? :-)
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:35 PM   #24
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Mine was built in October. They take their "Friday Night Lights" just as serious in that part of Ohio!
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Old 08-26-2011, 07:15 AM   #25
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In my case the rivets were not missing. In the original installation AS used a steel washer between the rivet head and the belly pan. Over the years the electrolysis caused the washer to cut through the belly pan, making a hole at each rivet location a little larger than a dime and a lot larger than a rivet head. I would say that 70% of the rivets had cut through the belly pan. I cut 1 1/2" washers out of a sheet of fiberglass using a hole saw then sandwiched the fiberglass washer between the belly pan and a 1" fender washer and used a 3/16" rivet. It worked really well. I had towed the trailer home some 450 miles not knowing the belly pan was sagging, didn't have any problems. If you would like photos, let me know.
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Old 08-26-2011, 07:31 AM   #26
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That's a more encouraging explanation!

I figure the bellypan is great place to learn and developing my riveting skills. What are the bellypan rivets attaching to? The steel frame?
If i drop the pan should I expect to find the same insulation as the other Airstreams between the subfloor and bellypan?
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:20 AM   #27
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Unless you have a specific reason to drop the belly pan, then don't. The rivets do go into the frame and outriggers. Mine is a rear bath model, the grey water tank is located above the belly pan section that hangs lower than the rest. I did remove and replace that portion of the pan. I removed it to gain access to the grey water tank and it's support system. Just wanted to see what kind of shape things were in.
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:13 AM   #28
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Mine is a rear bath model, the grey water tank is located above the belly pan section that hangs lower than the rest. I did remove and replace that portion of the pan. I removed it to gain access to the grey water tank and it's support system. Just wanted to see what kind of shape things were in.
Mine too is a rear bath and I'd like to get an idea whether I have a floor rot issue back there and the condition of the rear frame sections. Seems like dropping that section of the pan would be easier than taking out the bath itself.
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