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07-29-2008, 01:21 PM
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#21
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 26
Oxford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The water pump in your photo was made by Peters and Russel.
Their new name is Jabsco.
Their cheap pumps, such as in your photo, cost almost $300.00, each.
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Does that imply that it's a high quality pump and worthy of a rebuild instead of a replace?
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07-29-2008, 02:28 PM
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#22
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
15. It is absolutely mandatory, when applying the gaskets, that you stop after every three windows, and enjoy a real cold beer. That's the reward for a job well done.
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I must not work as fast as everyone else. I just finished my first window and I am already thirsty.
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07-29-2008, 02:31 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
2011 34' Classic
Westchester Cty.NY
, / Miami FL
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,122
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"your mileage may vary"
__________________
Ricky
2012 F150 Super Crew 5-1/2' bed Ecoboost 4x4 3.73 elec. lock diff. Propride hitch
give life. kidney & pancreas transplant 9/9/06
Ingrid-my unofficial '"World's Oldest Streamer" 1909-2008 R.I.P.
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07-29-2008, 02:49 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Duff,
Take a look at the diagram in this link; it should give you a pretty good overview idea of how your plumbing is set up.
http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/plumbing/plumb.htm
As long as your check valves keep the water from backing up into the potable water tank when running on city water and from shooting out of the city water hookup when running on just the pump, there should be no reason to replace or add any check valves.
Rebuild VS Replace - If it ain't leaking I would leave it alone. But you also mention that there was some evidence of previous leakage and a soft floor under the pump. With that in mind, if you find it leaks, I would rebuild. I am frugal (read cheap) and if I can rebuild something myself cheaper than buy a new one or pay somebody else to rebuild it, I will always choose to rebuild myself. I just ran out to our '06 and the pump from the factory is an ES Aqua Jet II and a quick Google search shows they range from $140.00 - $150.00.
If you have sections of copper that are swollen or split from freezing, you may want to look into cutting those sections out and replacing with PEX and / or re-plumb the entire water system with PEX. Again you can find numerous threads on that topic.
If you are going camping soon, as I think you mentioned, I would concentrate on one system at a time. If you are going to a commercial campground, make sure the city water system is working. If you are going boon docking, make sure the water pump and potable water system works.
Something else that I don't think anybody mentioned is water pressure from the city water hook up side of the equation. You may want to invest in a pressure regulator that hooks up between the trailer and the campground's water system. Some campgrounds have too much pressure and can damage your water system. Again your trailer has a check valve and a pressure regulator, but it is sometimes better to error on the side of caution. You can get these gadgets at almost any RV store or at any on-line retailer. Take a look at these at Camping World...
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/water-regulators-gauges/4411
The opposite side of the coin is a campground without enough pressure. The good news is you can supplement the campground's poor pressure with your water pump. Just fill your potable water tank and turn the pump on. The pump and your potable water supply will make up the difference and get you good water pressure.
Keep chipping away at things and you'll be ready to go before you know it.
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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07-29-2008, 03:33 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
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Pump - I wanted to rebuild, as it looks kinda quaint (and built like a tank), but old rusty fell apart on me. After... wow, what a difference in sound (still there, but not like a jackhammer), better pressure, and much lighter. I bought a shurflo for around $100... I didn't need variable speed, etc. "Whisper" models... I don't think it really makes much difference in volume... they all let you know they're there.
Again, if you have city hookups, you can camp without changing it out.
Marc
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07-29-2008, 07:45 PM
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#26
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 26
Oxford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645
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That's a very informative link...I read it all. Thanks.
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07-30-2008, 02:55 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duff23
Does that imply that it's a high quality pump and worthy of a rebuild instead of a replace?
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Rebuild kits are available.
The Shurflo pumps, are cheap, and have a short life.
The Jabsco pumps, are not cheap, and only last 30 to 40 years, and then need a rebuild.
Andy
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08-01-2008, 07:41 AM
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#28
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 26
Oxford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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Alternate to gray fuzzy seal
Is there a viable alternative to the gray fuzzy seal that goes inside the slots for the window support arm? This design just seems so outdated and begging for improvement. Any suggestions are welcome.
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08-01-2008, 07:45 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Duff,
If there is an improvment over the fuzzy strips, I am unaware of it. They use the same thing today. Our '06 has them too.
If you want nre replacements, I think you can get them from Andy at Inland Airstream or your local Airstream dealer.
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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08-01-2008, 07:59 AM
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#30
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Duff,
By the way, that Argosy under the carport in your avatar looks as snug as a bug in a rug.
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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08-01-2008, 08:40 AM
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#31
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duff23
Is there a viable alternative to the gray fuzzy seal that goes inside the slots for the window support arm? This design just seems so outdated and begging for improvement. Any suggestions are welcome.
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The screen fuzzy seal has been used by Airstream, for almost 40 years.
Considering the job it does, it's a lot better than any rubber product or plastic product, and is cheap, especially since is lasts 20 years or more, and makes a positive seal against flying insects.
Airstream used a plastic seal in 1969. At best, it was a joke, but did some what of a job.
What would you suggest as an improvement?
Andy
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08-02-2008, 06:46 AM
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#32
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 26
Oxford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645
Duff,
By the way, that Argosy under the carport in your avatar looks as snug as a bug in a rug.
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Snug for sure...thanks for noticing. The PO of this house included the carport in the design because they had anticipated buying an RV but never did. I don't think I really appreciated it until I backed Lucy under it...she fits perfectly.
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08-02-2008, 07:11 AM
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#33
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 26
Oxford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The screen fuzzy seal has been used by Airstream, for almost 40 years.
Considering the job it does, it's a lot better than any rubber product or plastic product, and is cheap, especially since is lasts 20 years or more, and makes a positive seal against flying insects.
Airstream used a plastic seal in 1969. At best, it was a joke, but did some what of a job.
What would you suggest as an improvement?
Andy
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Coincidentally, I'm almost 40 years old too!
Well perhaps I'm making more out of this than necessary, but I'm looking at this fuzzy seal I purchased and wondering what I'm supposed to do with it. It's all stitched up and doesn't look fuzzy at all. Am I supposed to cut it in half to expose some fuzziness and then glue two lengths of it opposing each other to make the seal?
I think I saw the '69 design you speak of. Is it a plastic surround with some fuzzy seal affixed to the middle of it? Of course from afar it looks more straightforward to me, but the cost per piece is astronomical.
I suppose I can't offer much for an improvement until I actually do the job.
Thanks for the help.
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08-02-2008, 08:51 AM
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#34
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duff23
Coincidentally, I'm almost 40 years old too!
Well perhaps I'm making more out of this than necessary, but I'm looking at this fuzzy seal I purchased and wondering what I'm supposed to do with it. It's all stitched up and doesn't look fuzzy at all. Am I supposed to cut it in half to expose some fuzziness and then glue two lengths of it opposing each other to make the seal?
I think I saw the '69 design you speak of. Is it a plastic surround with some fuzzy seal affixed to the middle of it? Of course from afar it looks more straightforward to me, but the cost per piece is astronomical.
I suppose I can't offer much for an improvement until I actually do the job.
Thanks for the help.
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I assume that you purchased some of the original fuzzy seal.
Each slot in the screen takes two strips of fuzzy that are 10 inches long.
One side of the fuzzy seal has one white thread.
The one thread side, is installed so that it's in the center of the hole and is face to face with the second strip.
After the fuzzy is installed, remove that thread, from both strips. That releases those sides so that it easily wraps itself around the window lift arms.
Andy
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08-02-2008, 09:48 AM
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#35
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 26
Oxford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
I assume that you purchased some of the original fuzzy seal.
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Yes, I purchased the original stuff. Should I use the same Super Weatherstrip Adhesive that you referenced in post #12 to glue the fuzzy seal?
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08-03-2008, 06:21 AM
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#36
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duff23
Yes, I purchased the original stuff. Should I use the same Super Weatherstrip Adhesive that you referenced in post #12 to glue the fuzzy seal?
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The fuzzy seal does not require a real tough adhesive.
You can use the black adhesive, if you wish, since it's the best.
Or you can use the less expensive yellow adhesive for the fuzzy.
Andy
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08-04-2008, 07:48 PM
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#37
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 26
Oxford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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Fresh water tank removed
While I was removing the nasty black hoses from my water pump today (they oozed gray slime) I looked over and saw how easy it would be to remove the fresh water tank....so I did. I was shocked to see moisture under there along the length of the tank (front half). Where did it come from? The tank only had about 2 cups of water in it so it can not be condensation. The trailer has been sitting under a carport for the last 4 weeks so it isn't recent rainfall. Could it be the result of the rainstorm we slept in the night we picked it up on July 4th? I'm baffled.
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08-04-2008, 11:25 PM
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#38
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duff23
While I was removing the nasty black hoses from my water pump today (they oozed gray slime) I looked over and saw how easy it would be to remove the fresh water tank....so I did. I was shocked to see moisture under there along the length of the tank (front half). Where did it come from? The tank only had about 2 cups of water in it so it can not be condensation. The trailer has been sitting under a carport for the last 4 weeks so it isn't recent rainfall. Could it be the result of the rainstorm we slept in the night we picked it up on July 4th? I'm baffled.
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Since you have the tank out, fill it with water and see if maybe there might be a pin hole leak.
You could also add some "red" food coloring to the water, which will help you see a tiny leak.
Andy
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08-05-2008, 07:55 AM
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#39
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Duff,
Are you baffled by the 2 cups of resudial water in the tank or the moisture under the tank???
While you have the tank out it will be easy to sanitize it and check the tank and trailer for leaks.
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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08-05-2008, 08:14 AM
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#40
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3 Rivet Member
1976 Argosy 26
Oxford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645
Duff,
Are you baffled by the 2 cups of resudial water in the tank or the moisture under the tank???
While you have the tank out it will be easy to sanitize it and check the tank and trailer for leaks.
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I'm baffled about the moisture under the tank.
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