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Old 05-19-2010, 07:05 PM   #71
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1976 Argosy 26
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July 27th, 2008....the day that I started this thread.

May 19th, 2010....today....and I still haven't taken her camping.

To be honest, I've thought about giving up and being another one of "those guys" with the partially torn apart Argosy for sale on e-bay but I just can't do it. I've got to make something positive out of this experience.

So I'm back in it and I have a July commitment to take my family camping in her along with my brother's family in their camper.

I'm sure that I'll be calling upon everybody's help once again soon.

Stay tuned!

Duff
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:26 AM   #72
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I'm still searching for the plumbing leak so I finally removed the toilet. That seemed harder than it should have been. The throne area has a few separated joints so I want to fix (or replace) those panels as well. How do I get that black ring off the top of the BW tank (that the toilet was mounted on) so that I can remove the top piece of the throne? Does it spin off?...I tried turning it CCW but it wouldn't budge.

I got the front throne piece off and saw where the hot/cold water lines run up to the kitchen, but they disappear under the tub and then pop out under the curbside bed. So I figured that I'd remove the tub to get a complete view of the copper lines. I removed all the lower seam wraps to expose the top edge of the tub and then started working it out. The tub felt like it wanted to come out except for a little resistance around the drain. Is the tub drain screwed into something under it (grey water tank??) and need to be removed to get the tub out?

Should I just remove all this copper and replace with PEX now that I have it exposed? Is it okay to just replace half of the coach's copper for now?
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:41 AM   #73
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Awesome that you have rededicated yourself!! That's a good time to tackle the dirty jobs you mention in your posts.

You should be able to unscrew the drain from above I think. There is no access from the outside to get to that drain underneath. Can you see the underside of the shower drain/waste pipe connection? maybe there is a nut on that side to loosen with a pair of channel locks.

<disclaimer> That's how I would approach it, right or wrong, I'd find out eventually. Your results may vary. Please note any advise I give should be taken as the advise of a deluded engineer who thinks he can fix anything and although he often does , he occasionally fails. : catastrophically.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:34 PM   #74
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I can understand the urge to quit at times. We bought ours in late Sept 09. It seemed every nice day [Western WA it rains all winter] we worked on it. My husband has been stubborn on getting it finished. We have a June goal - Five weeks and counting. We are going to Gillette. A goal I believe helps or the project can take a long time. I am the wife of the guy with the newly painted Argosy. I am finishing the curtains. We still have things to do - like finish the bathroom. Today is update the list day. I think the goal you have will help you see success!
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Old 05-21-2010, 08:42 AM   #75
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Keep going on the redo. You can drop the back portion of the belly pan to see the lower part of the plumbing. The shower drain MAY unscrew from the top, but you will know for sure when the belly pan is down. It is also a good idea to check the condition of the valve(s) and tank(s) when the belly pan is down. It is easy to rivet the pan back up, too.

Remember that the plumbing is 30+ years old so it tends to be harder to get things apart.

The closet flange usually screws into the top of the black tank but there is likely 30+ year old sealant there as well. Generally the toilet comes right off after removing the nuts on the bolts that hold it down. There is a soft foam ring that seals the toilet to the flange. I don't know that I would want to remove the flange itself unless I was replacing the tank. It is usually the case that the toilet comes off in one piece when the mounting nuts are removed.

Get a lot of PEX tubing and push on fittings and get the copper replaced when you get it exposed. PEX is less likely to break due to freezing and is easy to work with. The time and money spent is worth it IMHO.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:55 AM   #76
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Keep going on the redo. You can drop the back portion of the belly pan to see the lower part of the plumbing. The shower drain MAY unscrew from the top, but you will know for sure when the belly pan is down. It is also a good idea to check the condition of the valve(s) and tank(s) when the belly pan is down. It is easy to rivet the pan back up, too.

Remember that the plumbing is 30+ years old so it tends to be harder to get things apart.

The closet flange usually screws into the top of the black tank but there is likely 30+ year old sealant there as well. Generally the toilet comes right off after removing the nuts on the bolts that hold it down. There is a soft foam ring that seals the toilet to the flange. I don't know that I would want to remove the flange itself unless I was replacing the tank. It is usually the case that the toilet comes off in one piece when the mounting nuts are removed.

Get a lot of PEX tubing and push on fittings and get the copper replaced when you get it exposed. PEX is less likely to break due to freezing and is easy to work with. The time and money spent is worth it IMHO.
Thanks Argonaut. I think I'll drop the pan as you suggested, I'm really curious as to what's in there. Is the closet flange the thing that's keeping me from removing the top board of the throne? I'm going to have to get a new toilet too....it's my wifes only demand. But I definitely need to rebuild the panels around the toilet so I need to get that top piece off.
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:45 PM   #77
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Duff,
Yes, the closet flange is the black ring that the thone mounts too. There are usually two "T" bolts that hold the throne to the flange, one in the front and one in the back. To get to the front bolt you may need to have the flush pedal depressed. Depending on the model of throne you have the back bolt may be accesses through a round cut out on the top or you may just be able to feel around the back and locate it. Either way they are a bugger to get at sometimes. To take the flange off I used the "T" bolts and an old length of 2 X 4 to make a spanner wrench. Mark on the 2 X 4 where the slots are on the flange, drill holes in the 2 X 4, put "T" bolts in the flange slots, slip 2 X 4 over the bolts and use the 2 X 4 as a sort of lever / breaker bar. If the flange is a screw in type the added leverage of the 2 X 4 should make removal easy. If you are brave you can glove up and reach into the tank and feel for threads. If you feel threads you should simply be able to unscrew the flange. I couldn't budge mine by hand either, but when I made the spanner wrench it came out without any strugle. Also when you re-install the throne, be sure to get a new toilet gasket. But then again, if you are getting as new throne it should already come with a new gasket. Just be aware that RV throne do not use a bees wax ring like a residential toilet.

Good Luck and keep us posted.
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Old 05-26-2010, 05:43 AM   #78
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In addition to being threaded into the tank the flange may have some screws into the plywood covering the tank . Check before you start reefing on it.
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Old 05-26-2010, 05:47 AM   #79
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In addition to being threaded into the tank the flange may have some screws into the plywood covering the tank . Check before you start reefing on it.
Ticki2,
Thanks for catching what I missed. You are correct, that flange isn't going anywhere unlesss the screws holding it to the sub-floor are removed.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:00 AM   #80
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Hmmm .... I might need to come by and see your progress some time. I need to remove my BW tank. Is there a time that might be ok?
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:00 AM   #81
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Hmmm .... I might need to come by and see your progress some time. I need to remove my BW tank. Is there a time that might be ok?
Skip,
That would be great. I'd love to get your opinion of my "situation". I just got home from Michigan so let me get a handle on this week's schedule and I'll get back to you.
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