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Old 08-24-2008, 05:45 PM   #57
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1/8 " rivets on the rub rail sounds right. If a 1/8" bit doesn't slide in, there is still part of the rivet there. Drill it out. Probably medium length for the rivet, too.

Sounds like a plan for the vent pipe covers.

Those little drain valves get corroded and hard to turn. Try a pair of pliers as a lever to get the handle to turn. If it is too stubborn, the valve can be removed by unscrewing it from the heater. Replacements can be found at a hardware store or an auto parts store (radiator drain valve).
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Old 08-24-2008, 07:05 PM   #58
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1/8 " rivets on the rub rail sounds right. If a 1/8" bit doesn't slide in, there is still part of the rivet there. Drill it out.
Thanks, I'll drill it.

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Sounds like a plan for the vent pipe covers.
Yep, but you have to wonder why the designers didn't use the same hole pattern.

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Those little drain valves get corroded and hard to turn. Try a pair of pliers as a lever to get the handle to turn. If it is too stubborn, the valve can be removed by unscrewing it from the heater. Replacements can be found at a hardware store or an auto parts store (radiator drain valve).
I'll try that tomorrow.
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:45 PM   #59
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The screen fuzzy seal has been used by Airstream, for almost 40 years.

Considering the job it does, it's a lot better than any rubber product or plastic product, and is cheap, especially since is lasts 20 years or more, and makes a positive seal against flying insects.

Airstream used a plastic seal in 1969. At best, it was a joke, but did some what of a job.

What would you suggest as an improvement?

Andy
I finally finished a window...the fuzzy seal is great. I officially rescind my previous comment about it being an outdated design.

I also replaced a few rivets and ran a bead of Parr Bond along the rub rail on the front of the trailer. I don't think one of my rivets is doing anything...I couldn't apply enough pressure to compress the back side of the rub rail for the rivet to grab the skin of the trailer. What do you do when this happens?

Also, it looks like the rubber gasket on the outer edge of the front window has fallen in between the window and window frame in a couple of spots. This looks like a good place for water to get in. What should I fill this void with?
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Old 08-26-2008, 12:59 PM   #60
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I finally finished a window...the fuzzy seal is great. I officially rescind my previous comment about it being an outdated design.

I also replaced a few rivets and ran a bead of Parr Bond along the rub rail on the front of the trailer. I don't think one of my rivets is doing anything...I couldn't apply enough pressure to compress the back side of the rub rail for the rivet to grab the skin of the trailer. What do you do when this happens?

Also, it looks like the rubber gasket on the outer edge of the front window has fallen in between the window and window frame in a couple of spots. This looks like a good place for water to get in. What should I fill this void with?
Use longer rivets. If the rivet hole has been enlarged, then add rivets close to the problem rivet and then seal in place the rivet that won't stay.

Window gaskets, door gaskets, etc, should be replaced about every 15 to 20 years, depending on the climate.

Sewer vent pipe gaskets should be replaced about every 5 to 6 years.

Andy
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:50 AM   #61
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Bathroom plumbing leak

The wheels of progress continue turning ever so slowly...

I haven't talked much about it but my kitchen sink plumbing is finally fixed and leak free, but while pressurizing the water system I heard a leak somewhere under the bathroom floor. I pulled the carpet back and the plywood floor was getting wet from the bottom up. In addition to that the toilet was leaking from the backside.

So now for the two obvious questions:
1. How do I remove the toilet to check for sources of leaks?
2. How do I expose the plumbing under the floor? I'm truly afraid of what I might find under there (i.e. rust).

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:55 PM   #62
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Normally, the water system is above the floor so I'd suspect the toilet leak as the culprit for the water you are seeing. Having said that, the toilet is not a biggee to remove. Disconnect the water from the back. Look for (usually) two nuts on bolts coming up from the floor. The nuts may be hidden by covers or otherwise not immediately visible. When the nuts are removed, the toilet lifts up and out. It helps to know the model toilet you have. Scout the Thetford site to see if there isn't a diagram there that will help you see where the fasteners are located.
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Old 09-20-2009, 09:47 PM   #63
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Alright so it's been awhile (again)....

Okay, I'm back again. My wife might take me out back and shoot me if I don't take the family camping in this thing next spring. I told her that "preserving" the trailer upholds its value but she's not buying it.

So I pulled Lucy out of her shelter and finally got her registered. There's nothing like a trip to the DMV to put a smile on your face. I decided to park her out in the weather for a change. During a heavy rain storm I got inside to look for leaks and noticed the upper vista view had one. I took a look and noticed that the PO went heavy with the silicone on the top edge. I took some of the paint off while stripping the silicone and was wondering about the bare aluminum. Do I need to apply some kind of primer before I seal the window trim up with Vulkem?

Thanks as always,
Duff
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:42 AM   #64
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Long Time No See

Duff,
I'm glad to see you're back. I am also glad to hear you had pleasant trip to the DMV. Now that Lucy is registered, why do you have to wait until next spring to go camping. There's still a little time to get out there before the snow flies.

As for your paint question, I would definitely primer, finish paint, and then apply the Vulkem, in that order.
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Old 09-24-2009, 01:01 PM   #65
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I was wondering how Lucy was. And you too. In that order I'm sorry to say. that's a symptom of Aluminitis I think.
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:16 PM   #66
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The big brass thing with the bolt in the top is a pressure regulator. It should be set as needed, and it is followed by the pressure relief valve (with the black hose).

.....does anyone know who sells the pressure relief valve?
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:08 PM   #67
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Inland RV or Oasis RV most likely. You can also search the web. You might also find them at a plumbing supply house or RV supply near you. They are used on water heaters I believe.
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:02 PM   #68
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I tried online and couldn't find them. The water heater valve is different and has a probe that extends past the threaded fitting on the valve...

I'll try the other two

Thanks

Al
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:42 PM   #69
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As for your paint question, I would definitely primer, finish paint, and then apply the Vulkem, in that order.
Primer and paint...really? What name brand product do you recommend I use for this task?
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:46 PM   #70
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I was wondering how Lucy was. And you too. In that order I'm sorry to say. that's a symptom of Aluminitis I think.
Thanks for wondering. Lucy's bored and I'm busy...the usual story. I'm thinking about finding some proper storage so I can work on her through the winter. I'm glad to see your Aluminitis hasn't cleared up yet.
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