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Old 07-28-2008, 11:39 AM   #15
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When did you change gasket styles? I purchased mine from you in June and I was shipped the double flare type. I guess it was my ignorance.
We switched to the "D" shaped gasket in October of 2006.

However, some owners stick with the original gasket, perhaps because it's a little cheaper.

The original gasket is OK, but the "D" gasket because of it's hollow design and shape, does a superior job.

The double flare gasket, properly installed, will provide many years of service.

Andy
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:10 PM   #16
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These pumps are not expensive (about $75 - 80) so it is easier to replace than to mess with fixing it.
I spent some time at the plumbing store today gathering parts. I bought new hose, a check valve, and a new fitting to screw into the FW tank. I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and buy a new water pump. I'm a big fan of both "doing things right the first time" as well as "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". But this pump is 32 years old and even if it works I'm sure that it's on its last leg.

I also bought some parts to fix my kitchen sink supply lines. What a mess it is finding copper that mates to that!
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:15 PM   #17
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Replacing the gaskets is simple.

1. Remove the window.
How do I remove a window? Is it hinged just like the access doors so all I need to do is remove the attachment nut to the guide bar and rotate the window out?

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15. It is absolutely mandatory, when applying the gaskets, that you stop after every three windows, and enjoy a real cold beer. That's the reward for a job well done.
Mmmm....beer.

Thanks for all the advice.
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:22 PM   #18
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if it remains pink I would say that the pump check valve is working OK.
...so there is a check valve in the pump? And if so should I still install an additional one between city water and the pump?

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Sorry for the long reply. I hope it helps instead of confuses.
Please don't apologize...every word helps! Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:24 PM   #19
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How do I remove a window? Is it hinged just like the access doors so all I need to do is remove the attachment nut to the guide bar and rotate the window out?
Two ways, one much better than the other.
1-open window, then unscrew the 7/16" hex nuts on the window arm rods, remove the rods from the window frame, and lift up, The window willrelease when it is slightly above horizontal.
2-break window while attempting #1 (not recommended)
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:46 PM   #20
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I spent some time at the plumbing store today gathering parts. I bought new hose, a check valve, and a new fitting to screw into the FW tank. I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and buy a new water pump. I'm a big fan of both "doing things right the first time" as well as "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". But this pump is 32 years old and even if it works I'm sure that it's on its last leg.

I also bought some parts to fix my kitchen sink supply lines. What a mess it is finding copper that mates to that!
The water pump in your photo was made by Peters and Russel.

Their new name is Jabsco.

Their cheap pumps, such as in your photo, cost almost $300.00, each.

There is supposed to be a check valve at the city water inlet, so that when the pump runs, the water will not go out of the city water inlet.

There is also supposed to be a check valve at the water pump, so that when your hooked up to city water, the city water pressure cannot apply pressure to the output of the water pump, as well as stopping any back feed thru the pump, that would over fill and possibly break the plastic water tank.

Andy
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Old 07-29-2008, 02:21 PM   #21
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The water pump in your photo was made by Peters and Russel.

Their new name is Jabsco.

Their cheap pumps, such as in your photo, cost almost $300.00, each.
Does that imply that it's a high quality pump and worthy of a rebuild instead of a replace?
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:28 PM   #22
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15. It is absolutely mandatory, when applying the gaskets, that you stop after every three windows, and enjoy a real cold beer. That's the reward for a job well done.
I must not work as fast as everyone else. I just finished my first window and I am already thirsty.
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:31 PM   #23
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:49 PM   #24
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Duff,
Take a look at the diagram in this link; it should give you a pretty good overview idea of how your plumbing is set up.

http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/plumbing/plumb.htm

As long as your check valves keep the water from backing up into the potable water tank when running on city water and from shooting out of the city water hookup when running on just the pump, there should be no reason to replace or add any check valves.

Rebuild VS Replace - If it ain't leaking I would leave it alone. But you also mention that there was some evidence of previous leakage and a soft floor under the pump. With that in mind, if you find it leaks, I would rebuild. I am frugal (read cheap) and if I can rebuild something myself cheaper than buy a new one or pay somebody else to rebuild it, I will always choose to rebuild myself. I just ran out to our '06 and the pump from the factory is an ES Aqua Jet II and a quick Google search shows they range from $140.00 - $150.00.

If you have sections of copper that are swollen or split from freezing, you may want to look into cutting those sections out and replacing with PEX and / or re-plumb the entire water system with PEX. Again you can find numerous threads on that topic.

If you are going camping soon, as I think you mentioned, I would concentrate on one system at a time. If you are going to a commercial campground, make sure the city water system is working. If you are going boon docking, make sure the water pump and potable water system works.

Something else that I don't think anybody mentioned is water pressure from the city water hook up side of the equation. You may want to invest in a pressure regulator that hooks up between the trailer and the campground's water system. Some campgrounds have too much pressure and can damage your water system. Again your trailer has a check valve and a pressure regulator, but it is sometimes better to error on the side of caution. You can get these gadgets at almost any RV store or at any on-line retailer. Take a look at these at Camping World...

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/water-regulators-gauges/4411

The opposite side of the coin is a campground without enough pressure. The good news is you can supplement the campground's poor pressure with your water pump. Just fill your potable water tank and turn the pump on. The pump and your potable water supply will make up the difference and get you good water pressure.

Keep chipping away at things and you'll be ready to go before you know it.
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Old 07-29-2008, 04:33 PM   #25
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Pump - I wanted to rebuild, as it looks kinda quaint (and built like a tank), but old rusty fell apart on me. After... wow, what a difference in sound (still there, but not like a jackhammer), better pressure, and much lighter. I bought a shurflo for around $100... I didn't need variable speed, etc. "Whisper" models... I don't think it really makes much difference in volume... they all let you know they're there.

Again, if you have city hookups, you can camp without changing it out.
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:45 PM   #26
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Duff,
Take a look at the diagram in this link; it should give you a pretty good overview idea of how your plumbing is set up.

http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/plumbing/plumb.htm
That's a very informative link...I read it all. Thanks.
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:55 PM   #27
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Does that imply that it's a high quality pump and worthy of a rebuild instead of a replace?
Rebuild kits are available.

The Shurflo pumps, are cheap, and have a short life.

The Jabsco pumps, are not cheap, and only last 30 to 40 years, and then need a rebuild.

Andy
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Old 08-01-2008, 08:41 AM   #28
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Alternate to gray fuzzy seal

Is there a viable alternative to the gray fuzzy seal that goes inside the slots for the window support arm? This design just seems so outdated and begging for improvement. Any suggestions are welcome.
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