A new redux

[rugjenkins]

Consider coosa board or advantec sheathing. Both are great products. The coosa is expensive but a one time install. I went with advantec. I used it on my house. It has waterproof binders. It's good stuff and a lot less expensive. Coosa = $200 a sheet. Advantec = $30 dollars a sheet. You need 6 to do a 28 footer. Sounds like your moving fast on the land.

[ArgosyRich]

Well, on Wednesday, I was able to clear some more area around where the Argosy will be worked on, tore apart some of the shed, dug up some stumps and even removed all of the original wiring from the trailer. Bees (lots of bees) and rain put a damper on progress the last few days.

Matt, I do like Advantec. I use it on all my subfloor repairs and new construction projects. That was my first go to idea for the shell off, until I read about the Coosa board. I do not like the cost of it, but I do like the pros of using it. There is a distributor in Nashville for Coosa. I have yet to call them to get a quote on the 6 sheets I'll need. I will when I get the shell off and frame repaired/replaced.

I think I've settled on a rough layout for the trailer. It will be a close copy of a layout I came across on a custom Airstream interior company's website. It fits my needs. I can begin putting dimensions on paper, preparing an electrical layout diagram, materials list etc.

[Eric 26 Argo]

I would be interested in hearing the cost of the Coosa board as well. I have a 26' shell sitting in my back yard right now waiting to get my frame back from Jeff Oliver getting 2/3rds of the out riggers replaced and some rear frame rot.
[IMG]Shell off Houston we have spearation by Eric Frye, on Flickr[/IMG]

[rugjenkins]

I was quote $200 a sheet

[Eric 26 Argo]

So $200 a sheet, let's see six times... cary the three... the decimal keeps coming out in the wrong place. Too rich for my blood. I will probably just use pressure treated and paint the edges of my boards with fiberglass resin and call it good.
Good luck with yours.

[TheGreatleys]

Originally Posted by Eric 26 Argo

So $200 a sheet, let's see six times... cary the three... the decimal keeps coming out in the wrong place. Too rich for my blood. I will probably just use pressure treated and paint the edges of my boards with fiberglass resin and call it good.
Good luck with yours.

Don't use pressure treated wood in your trailer. It will actively corrode the metal it's in contact with. Use regular exterior grade (not PT) plywood or marine plywood.

I used exterior grade BC plywood from the hardware store, coated in West System epoxy, and was very pleased with the result.

[Eric 26 Argo]

Thanks for the reminder. I remember it being an issue with aluminum boat hulls and the trailer bunks. When they quit using arsenic and switched to cooper sulfates as a preservative.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by TheGreatleys

Don't use pressure treated wood in your trailer. It will actively corrode the metal it's in contact with. Use regular exterior grade (not PT) plywood or marine plywood.

I used exterior grade BC plywood from the hardware store, coated in West System epoxy, and was very pleased with the result.

You can coat the flat sheets before cutting with WEST, and then treat all the cut edges too. Marine ply is worth the extra cost IMO, especially if sheets longer than 8’ are needed.

[ArgosyRich]

All this rain sure puts a damper on outside work. I did get a few more stumps removed, though. I believe we can move forward still.

Searching through the forums here concerning Coosa product uses, I noted concerns about the ability to fasten anything to the product. Need some sort of backing material to bite into or use through bolting. (Think fastening cabinetry, walls, &ct.) Checking Coosa composite's site, they make no mention of mechanical fastener use with their products. They do have a list of approved adhesives though.

I did not see any details on expansion or contraction due to heat or moisture. It can accept up to 1.5% moisture, depending on he product. The site also mentioned critter resistance. What pests burrows or eats poly foam and fiberglass?

Let's go build some gantrys, shall we?

[ArgosyRich]

No edit feature? I looked in the forum rules. There should be an edit button somewhere. (Edit seems to be time sensitive. Just after posting this, there was an edit button. Lesson learned.)

Anywho, I was going to add to my last post a 'T' to he, and also toilet to the list of stuff that gets bolted to the floor.

[OTRA15]

About ten minutes to edit FYI, after which you can quote yourself and put a correction in the new post. Or start a new post with "PS" then explain. These two options make it clear to the reader that a correction is underway, not a new comment on the topic IMO.

[Eric 26 Argo]

Rich - I think your concern about attaching is warranted. The floor bolts wouldn't be an issue but anything connecting with wood screws or rivets would be a little more concerning. Anywhere you could through bolt you can add washers to stop pull through, and even with rivets you can add a washer to reduce pull through. Anything you blind screw I would do a glue and screw relying on the glue for long term stability and the screw to hold in place until the glue sets. If you really plan well you should be able to put the floor in and attach just about everything you would need prior to putting the belly pan on so there shouldn't be much need to blind screw / rivet anything.