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Old 03-02-2016, 01:15 PM   #1
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'73 rear bath removal

Looks like I am going to have to remove and replace the contents of the rear bathroom to service / replace the black tank and repair some floor rot. Is there a specific order of service to removing the various components, ie closet, vanity, shower tub? I want to get it done without wrecking anything and get it all back together again without too much pain.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:31 PM   #2
1977 31' Excella 500
 
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I'll try. Start with the major components closest to the deterioration. Detatch it and take it out. Remove that which is in immediate proximity. Cut that decking out as it will be replaced in manageable, pullable sizes. If the decking is 3/4", set your circular saw at 5/8" and break that last layer. Start small and explore as you remove pieces. Minimize exploratory damage to systems. Please don't cut deep to damage your holding tanks. If you go to the corner, maybe that decking can be used as a curve pattern for replacement. See how wide the rot goes, and how deep. Are the frame rails and crossmember solid. Will rust inhibitor and a fresh coat of paint restore the frame. What caused the rot? When you lift the toilet, maybe flush the tank to minimize odor. Bleach is cheap. Flush it all away.
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Old 03-04-2016, 07:50 PM   #3
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These things go in by layers, so you need to look at the removal as removing one layer after another. The pieces below the belt line should all come out with out having to worry much about the part above the belt line. I don't have a picture of your trailer to use, so this is pretty general.
Remove the toilet, remove the belly pan under the bath, remove the wash stand (if there is one). Trim covering panel overlaps should come off so you can see what overlaps there are. Try to figure out what the order of assembly was so you can go in reverse. TAKE LOTS OF PHOTOS AS YOU GO!

You can probably assess the floor damage from underneath once the belly pan is off. That will give you an idea how far you need to go with removal.

With care and a bit of luck, you should do well. Get some large head 3/16" pop rivets from VTS to put the belly pan back on.
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:47 PM   #4
1977 31' Excella 500
 
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I got a new saying from the movie London has Fallen. It's made up of "Bad Choices and Bourbon".
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:46 AM   #5
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1973 31' Sovereign
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We are getting ready to do the exact same thing to our 1973. Will likely try today or tomorrow. If we can pass on any useful tips as we progress we will make another post here. Wish us luck!
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:07 PM   #6
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Best of luck. It is still way too cold up here to think about getting into the job. Let me know how it works out and what you may wish you had done differently.
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:10 PM   #7
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'73 rear bath removal

I did the bathroom in my '77. When airstream builds the trailers they assemble the interiors working from back to front. Best to start at the bathroom door and work toward the back wall.
You'll probably need to replace the rear hold down plate.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f421...ml#post1348703
This might help.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:18 PM   #8
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Well, it was sort of a chore, but not too bad. Our task was aided by the fact we won't be putting any of the old stuff back in so we didn't have to be quite as careful with the sections than if we were. We are all new to Airstreams, this is our first one and we have only had it a matter of days. If I say something obvious or stupid, that's my excuse!

A few observations....

1. Under the trim are several rivets. The trim overlay had to be destroyed as it was really brittle and we weren't able to save it. Hopefully if you want to save yours its in a little better condition than ours.

2. There were several steel screws that had rusted quite a bit and a fair amount of time was spent trying to remove a small number without striping the head or breaking it off. A little shot of rust remover might help, if you spray and come back to it.

3. We worked from the top down, with the assumption they likely built it from the bottom up. It seems to have been a good assumption. I don't really have much advice as to which particular sections to start with as nothing seem to come off more easily than anything else. Just remove what fasteners you can see, tug on it, then keep looking until its off!

4. There was some difficulty removing the drain from the tub. So much that the easiest thing became to just saw off the pipe.

Not much in the way of any big earth shattering lessons learned, but hopefully it was some help. Overall it probably took one of us about two hours including fussing with all of the stuck fasteners and parts.

Let us know how yours goes!

Mark and Georgia
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:32 PM   #9
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Well I have started. After much deliberation it seemed good to me to remove the sink/counter top and vanity first. Many rivets, some hidden, and much caulking later ,it came out intact. I had to cut the water lines and drain / vent pipes. Then I removed the toilet. I figured that, if they built from the back to the front, they also built from the bottom up. that would mean that the shower tub was first in and will be last out.
In the mean time the spring like weather of last week is no more and winter is trying to make a come back. Since getting the black tank out requires being underneath the rig and disconnecting the dump valve, it will wait for warmer drier weather.
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:20 PM   #10
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Old 03-25-2016, 03:09 PM   #11
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I'm down to the black tank. Sure glad that i cleaned and drained the beastie last fall. Just need to remove the dump valve and out she comes. I can clearly see daylight through the 5 inch gap where the sub floor used to be.It's supposed to get warm again next week and i am waiting until then to go under the trailer to disconnect the shower drain and dump valve. We just had a bad ice storm and many are without power. Ours stayed on. I believe because I spent Thursday buying and assembling a harness to connect my genny to the house should the need arise. It's always nice to be able to keep furnace, fridge and freezer running. As usual when one is prepared, stuff does not happen.
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:18 AM   #12
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Take tons of pics, for when you can't remember how it goes back together
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AldeanFan View Post
Take tons of pics, for when you can't remember how it goes back together
Absolutely. There are signs that I am not the first one in here. several items are fastened with uniquely Canadian Robertson screws. They have a square socket on the screw that accepts a matching square end in the driver.
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Old 03-31-2016, 09:03 AM   #14
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If you have to take a lot of the floor out, I'd suggest keep as much as you can intact to use as a template for the new pieces! It took me some time getting the new pieces in under the shell, but I had to replace the whole bath floor.
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