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Old 08-20-2016, 08:28 AM   #1
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1973 Argosy 20
Alpena , Michigan
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73 Argosy 20' redo on extreme budget

I really bit the bullet... I have had this inherited Argosy sitting outside for a few years, and it was crying rust on the steel endcaps. Once I started looking into taking care of the rust, I discovered the flooring rot. So...

I am doing a on-shell floor replacement. I am at the point now, where it is totally gutted. I am cleaning the walls of all traces of fibergass insulation, and today I make my floor templates.

But first thing I did was work on the endcaps...

The first 2 photos were taken in 2011, and not much rust was evident at the time, but it was much worse by last year when I started the process.
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:41 AM   #2
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The silver is POR-15 rust preventative. Last year, I stripped the endcaps down to bare metal, sanded the heck out of them, then applied POR-15. I could not afford any paint until it was too cold to paint, so I covered it with a tarp for the winter, and continued in the spring...

This is the trailer today. I have yet to paint and replace the lights and argosy signs...

I will end up having to paint the entire trailer, not just the endcaps - as I removed the blue painting tape, it pulls off the old paint under it <sigh> Next years project...
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:57 AM   #3
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underside

Once I removed the belly pan (glad I did - it would've fallen off the first time I drove), I checked the frame. I am pleasantly surprised - only one piece needs replacement: the rear-most cross-member at the bumper box. Well, as far as I can tell anyway. There aren't holes rusted through the framing pieces, and nothing moves under pressure, so I assume they are good to go.

I have a welder coming by to look - hopefully this weekend. I need that rear x-member replaced, and I plan on using metal tubing instead of the 2x4 flooring supports that run the length of the rails...

First 2 pics are the rotted x-member... The last 2 are the worst of rust pitting near front of framing.
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:10 PM   #4
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The end caps look really good. As you replace the exterior lights, pay particular attention to grounding. I ran a ground wire from the lights to the frame in the Caravel just to make sure there was a ground. The Argosy tends to get a little rust around the mounting screw (source of ground) and grounding is gone.
You might also look at the Caravel forum for a description of how one fellow lifted the shell off the frame with little equipment necessary. It makes doing the floor replacement easier if the shell is off and it isn't too big a deal to remount the shell on the frame when the floor is in place.
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:16 PM   #5
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Post 13 starts some good info on sealing up the back end. Since you'll be working back there it's a good time to knock it out.

If you have the banana wraps off you can also flash the curve from the outside edge of the bumper forward to the end of the curve.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ml#post1836237
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:59 PM   #6
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Did you use the POR15 topcoat with UV protection? Most of their base coat products don't have it, that way they get you to buy another product from them. I've always used the basecoat and then a topcoat over it for long term protection. I also found out that once you use their base coat, you don't have to use their expensive topcoats, you can put Rustoleum or any other good enamel based paint over it and it lasts just as long.
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argonaut20 View Post
The end caps look really good. As you replace the exterior lights, pay particular attention to grounding. I ran a ground wire from the lights to the frame in the Caravel just to make sure there was a ground. The Argosy tends to get a little rust around the mounting screw (source of ground) and grounding is gone.
You might also look at the Caravel forum for a description of how one fellow lifted the shell off the frame with little equipment necessary. It makes doing the floor replacement easier if the shell is off and it isn't too big a deal to remount the shell on the frame when the floor is in place.
Thanks - I will run an additional wire to ground for that!

My problem is that I am doing this all alone, and with disabilities to boot. I will check into the Caravel forum, but I think it may be too much for a single person to try...
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver View Post
Post 13 starts some good info on sealing up the back end. Since you'll be working back there it's a good time to knock it out.

If you have the banana wraps off you can also flash the curve from the outside edge of the bumper forward to the end of the curve.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ml#post1836237
I have marked those 'sealing rear end' posts and plan on doing it. And, yes - the banana wraps are off. (Other than some dings, they look good too. I am removing the dings using some bump & paint fender tools prior to painting them.)
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McArthur View Post
Did you use the POR15 topcoat with UV protection? Most of their base coat products don't have it, that way they get you to buy another product from them. I've always used the basecoat and then a topcoat over it for long term protection. I also found out that once you use their base coat, you don't have to use their expensive topcoats, you can put Rustoleum or any other good enamel based paint over it and it lasts just as long.
I used their 'tri-coat primer' which allows you to use whatever topcoat you wish.
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:45 PM   #10
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What dose one use to strip the Argosy paint that is safe to you and the inviroment.
Thanks George
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gosman View Post
What dose one use to strip the Argosy paint that is safe to you and the inviroment.
Thanks George
I still wore gloves and long sleeves while using it, but this is what I used:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ready-Str...5832/100665911
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:28 PM   #12
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Floor templates made (as per Frank's Trailer Works). Floor removal in progress - rear 4' gone.

Wondered what the 'L bracket' was that was referred to in other posts about rear end rot. Aha, said I... Removing rivets to it so I can por-15 it.

Removed battery compartment and door. I plan on putting a piece of aluminum over the outside door hole. (Anyone want a battery compartment? )

BTW, how do you remove any sharp edges from aluminum sheet that you cut?
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Old 08-26-2016, 09:21 PM   #13
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"BTW, how do you remove any sharp edges from aluminum sheet that you cut?"

Depends on where the edge is going to be. If when it's installed it's not going to be readily accessible or exposed to someone getting hurt on I don't bother. For those of concern I just run a flat metal file over the edge.
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:01 PM   #14
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Thanks - easy enough. I didn't know if there was a special tool, like a roller that de-burrs...
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