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Old 03-15-2013, 08:06 PM   #1
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1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
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7.3 Minuet Teardown

Just finished removing the vinyl on the floor in the front part of the trailer (what a pain!). Pulled the dinette table, seats and water tank to evaluate the floor situation. Seems to be some rot next to the door, it is hard to tell if there is any problems under the electrical equipment. Also the water tank is cracked around the fill area. I will have to do some research on how to repair floor rot!
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:40 PM   #2
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The floor doesn't look too bad. Some localized patches and you should be OK.
The converter should be replaced. The water tank is repairable. Not sure what the little black box near the battery box is.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:29 PM   #3
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The black box is the fuse panel. I have not been able to power anything up yet. Not getting any 110 or 12v anywhere.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:18 AM   #4
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Do you have the shore power plugged in? Does the outlet where you plugged in have power? Is it fed by a GFCI breaker?
Have you located the 120 volt AC power panel in the coach?
Do you have power to the AC power panel?
Are the circuit breakers in this panel turned on?
I see the fuse panel on the wall. Is there another one on the floor? The black box I referred to above.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:07 AM   #5
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Floor and Electrics

I plugged in shore power and confirmed that I was getting ac power to all the trailer plugs. I get no "hum" out of the dc converter and no 12v showing up anywhere. Maybe the Univolt is caput? Is there a breaker or fuse in the Univolt? Also where can I learn the best method of replacing sections of flooring?
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Bruce
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:41 PM   #6
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Is the outlet where the Univolt plugs in hot?
It appears the 2 wires going into the fuse box on the floor are the output of the Univolt. You should be able to test for DC power inside the fuse box.
The wire with the red tape or tag will be positive, the wire with the white tap or tag will be negative.
The single glass fuse on the floor is in the negative battery lead. The large red wire going into the fuse box (right side) is the positive lead to the battery. There may be a large fuse in the fuse box like the one on the floor. That will be the positive fuse.
Make sure the fuses are good as well as tight in the fuse holders. Corrosion can cause open circuits in these low voltage systems.
If the Univolt is not humming, it either doesn't have AC power or it is bad. I don't believe there is a switch on the Univolt. But I would look for one.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:42 PM   #7
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Bum Univolt

I tested the 110v circuit and I do have power to the plug that serves the Univolt. I also tested the Univolt output, no 12v on the output side along with the absence of any humming from the Univolt leads me to believe the converter has gone to converter heaven. Can you see anything I have missed? How about a replacement recommendation?
I also found more floor rot under the converter, bummer!
You guys are awesome, don't know what I would do without your advice!!
Bruce
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:52 PM   #8
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I replace the Univolt with a Progressive Dynamics 9245 Converter three years ago and it is working great. You can find them on the Internet for about $120.00.
About the floor rot under the old converter. If it is just surface rot from where the converter sets. I would try to repair it with epoxy. It is a small area that I don't believe it will affect the structural integrity of the coach.
My guess would be, water from the pump lines may have run under the converter when a PO was working on the pump. It would not evaporate easily under the metal.
If there is a window close to the location, check it for leaks.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:08 PM   #9
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Thanks again for all the help. The best price I can find on the 9245 is around $145. I am considering cutting out the floor from one side to the other to catch both areas of rot. Am I making too much work for myself by approaching the repair in this manner?
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:53 PM   #10
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If the floor rot is in a small area. Say a foot to a foot and a half square area. You would be fine with a patch.
Tearing out the floor from wall to wall is overkill.
There is a lot of info on floor repair here. Just look for interior repairs and select floors.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:12 PM   #11
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Wow! This has been a real journey of discovery. I read Hotpuppy's account and have found rot in the same areas. Is there any way to assess the floor rot in the rear bath area other than by completely tearing it apart? I don't have the space to do a frame off and am hoping to patch small areas. I won't know for sure until I can check the rear rot situation.
Bruce
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