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Old 12-01-2012, 04:37 PM   #15
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1978 Argosy 30
Muncie , Indiana
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Well, we made it home without incident, so that seems good!

The argosy hauled really easy with the Ford 3500 diesel. Brakes worked on the trailer, though squeaky, and had to use some tie downs to keep a loose belly pan from dragging, but really an easy, easy trip.

Excited for the coming weeks/ months, working on forming up the plan here in the coming days. I'm sure there will be lots more to post, but as I'm doing this from my phone, I'm going to sign off and bring pics and details later on. Thanks for all the encouragement, support, and advice!

Mark

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Old 12-01-2012, 05:21 PM   #16
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Vin#

Glad you got it home safely. FYI Here is where the vin# is located on the tongue behind the tank on my Argosy, yours should be in the same place.
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:29 PM   #17
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1978 Argosy 30
Muncie , Indiana
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Thx, mine is likely under much paint!
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:45 PM   #18
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1978 Argosy 30
Muncie , Indiana
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Okay, I've had a few hours to gather myself. I wanted to give a heads up to my current situation and plans, and then ask for some feedback along some specific lines.

Our basic philosophy with all this is that we're planning a total custom remodel doing almost all of the work ourselves. We are not rich so can't afford to have lots of work paid for or to use super high end appliances, etc. but at the same time I am a craftsman, and believe I'm going to be able to put together a clean and crisp modern remodel.

Anyways, there it is, here goes!!

Where I'm at in the immediate future:
- Got this trailer out in my driveway, winters about to hit, so my plan is to get a big tarp and cover it up, but with a way for easy access inside so that I can do my winter work
- Ready to rip out all the insides down to the interior wall panels. Have some questions about some of the stuff I'm ripping out and if there is a demand for any of it.
- Will be looking at the floor condition, which sections need ripped out and replaced.
- Thinking through insulation under the floor, depending on how much floor we need to pull up.
- Advice on which leveling jacks to purchase, as I'll be immediately replacing all 4 of these. They are in ROUGH shape.
- Also assuming this 30' Argosy 1978 uses standard Olympic 5/32" Rivets? I have a dremel, and a rivet gun already, any other really handy tools I'll certainly need in the riveting realm? I also have a pretty fully outfitted shop... Table saw, Miter Saw, Router w/table, drills, drivers, compressor, sanders, angle grinder, and a miss of other stuff.

Bigger looming questions as we think about the remodel include
- Whether to relocate bathroom to "midships" with tanks over the axles? Considering this for functionality and preferences.
- How to go about our electrical? Which distribution panel/converter/charger to go with? Is there one with an integrated inverter for use when not plugged in. Would love a solid "all in one" solution that doesn't break the bank recognizing that we'll be spending some money piecing it all together as well.
- Information on how to patch and repair holes in the interior skins from previous perforations.

That is probably a good start, and I will try to post some solid interior / exterior pictures this afternoon / evening.

Once again, thanks to all for this amazing community and the willingness to help with wisdom gained in going ahead of some of us newbs,

Mark
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:34 PM   #19
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1959 24' Tradewind
Fort wayne , Indiana
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Argosy

Hey I live in fort Wayne and I saw your argosy on craigslist. Good luck w your remodel. I just bought a 20' minuet w the interior in worse shape but I paid $300. If you have plans to gut your bath I would like to buy it all mine is gone to ironically make bunk beds. Or if you have any other stuff you won't need please call. 260-229-0835 russ
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:08 PM   #20
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1978 30' Argosy Remodel - Here we go!

Greetings Markeyro!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markeyro View Post

Where I'm at in the immediate future:

- Got this trailer out in my driveway, winters about to hit, so my plan is to get a big tarp and cover it up, but with a way for easy access inside so that I can do my winter work
The general recommendation is to avoid tarping an Airstream product. With an Airstream it is an abolute not .. . . with an Argosy you don't have the Plasticoated aluminum surface to preserve, but a tarp is going to abrade the paint and can usually only be resolved through a repaint. My suggestion would be to make it a point to seal the exterior seams and gaps. You will also then be able to monitor the coach for leak points and correct those as you work during the winter months.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markeyro View Post

- Ready to rip out all the insides down to the interior wall panels. Have some questions about some of the stuff I'm ripping out and if there is a demand for any of it.
You will likely find someone on the Forums who may want just about any original component that you remove. The Forums Classifieds offer a good opportunity for disposal of items.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markeyro View Post

- Advice on which leveling jacks to purchase, as I'll be immediately replacing all 4 of these. They are in ROUGH shape.
For the greatest functionality, I would suggest going with BAL Long shank stabilizing jacks found in this link. The long shank is a necessity with the curved sides on an Airstream or an Argosy. I treid to economize with my first set of stabilizer jacks and utilized another brand/design and they were a chore to deploy and didn't fold compactly against the bottom of the coach and were drug off on a gas station approach in less than two seasons. I have had the above BAL stabilizers on both my Minuet and Overlander for a number of years without problem. If these are what are already on your Argosy, you may find that they are worth restoring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markeyro View Post
Bigger looming questions as we think about the remodel include
- Whether to relocate bathroom to "midships" with tanks over the axles?
With a major rennovation, moving the bathroom is possible . . . the biggest obstacles are typically windows that must be worked around. The thing to keep in mind as you place your waste tanks is placement of the dump valve . . . most camsites are setup with the idea that the dump valve will be on the streetside near the rear corner. I suspect that locating the waste tanks above the axles may somewhat restrict their size and make plumbing the dump valve a bit more difficult . . . and the wheel wells within the bath area will make the bath design a little more complicated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markeyro View Post

Considering this for functionality and preferences.
- How to go about our electrical? Which distribution panel/converter/charger to go with? Is there one with an integrated inverter for use when not plugged in.
I have a traditional Magnatec Converter in my Argosy Minuet that handles charging, 12-volt DC needs, and houses the fuse panel with modern automotive fuses; and an Inverter/Charger with an exterior fuse panel that also utilizes modern automotive fuses. Unless you are planning on installing more than two coach batteries and/or a Solar charging system, I would suggest going with a converter/charger as the increased cost of the Inverter system is hard to justify if there isn't a generous battery bank to supply power. My Overlander has three absorbent glass mat batteries with three solar panels so the Inverter/Charger made sense for my use at the time of installation. In my case, the Inverter/Charger was three times the cost of a premium converter/charger.

I realize that the new coaches are utilizing more sophisticated power systems with one central power center serving both 12-Volt DC and 120-Volt AC sides, but I am still quite satisfied with the separate 30-AMP electrical entrance and breaker box. Both of my coaches have modern 30-AMP RV breaker boxes mounted in the original location feeding what is essentially totally original 120-volt AC wiring, and I have encountered no particular problems with this arrangement. I did, however, upgrade my Overlander to a modern Marinco 30-AMP power connection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markeyro View Post

- Information on how to patch and repair holes in the interior skins from previous perforations.
The answer to this question is dependent upon a number of factors.
  • Small holes that remain after small hanging devices are removed can be filled with rivets matching the color of your vinyl-clad interior walls.
  • Large holes left after relocating an electrical box or other item that actually penetrated the skin is a slightly more involved task.
    • Where the repair will be hidden behind furniture, obscured by draperies or otherwise not in the direct line of sight, it is possible to apply a patch.
      • The first task is to find a piece of Vinyl-Clad aluminum that matches or is a near match for the Vinyl-Clad utilized in your coach.
        • While paying attention to the direction that the grain of the Vinyl-Clad runs, cut a patch at least 1/4-inch larger in all dimensions.
        • Attach the patch with pop rivets that match the color of your Vinyl-Clad (depending upon where the patch is located, you might want to fold the edges of the patch over so that there aren't any rough edges).
    • In a situation where you have a significant area to patch that is going to be in the line of sight, panel replacement might be called for . . . but the problem will be finding the Vinyl-Clad aluminum as it is my understanding that the only source for the type that was used in our coaches if from a salvaged unit.
Good luck with your Argosy!

Kevin

That is probably a good start, and I will try to post some solid interior / exterior pictures this afternoon / evening.

Once again, thanks to all for this amazing community and the willingness to help with wisdom gained in going ahead of some of us newbs,

Mark[/QUOTE]
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1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:28 PM   #21
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1978 Argosy 30
Muncie , Indiana
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Russ, sounds good, i'll send you some pics of what i've got if and i'd be happy to part those out to you. Off the top of my head, bathtub, sink, toilet, cabinets etc. I'll work on pics.
Feel free to PM with an email that's good to catch you at. Glad you caught me before i destroyed anything!

As a side note, got the seller down to 400 bucks on this unit, I was pretty psyched!

Thanks,
mark
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:23 PM   #22
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1959 24' Tradewind
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My email is rgerber@hotmail.com
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:25 PM   #23
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1978 Argosy 30
Muncie , Indiana
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Question about my fridge.

Hey there all, question about my Dometic RM100 gas/electric fridge. She no workey.

Won't fire up electric, and I'm assuming not with propane either. She is in rough shape inside which i'm confident that I could correct with some cleaning, paint and love. So I'm not concerned about that. But I do need her to work.

So first question: to repair or not to repair? Clearly these new gas/electric fridges are CRAZY expensive!!! Anyone have any leads on a cheap supplier for these guys? If not and I am looking to repair, any leads along those lines would be appreciated too. I am in Indiana and I know that shipping / delivery become issues with these not small items, like fridges.

Thoughts would be appreciated. Also some shots are attached.

Thanks, mark





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Old 12-05-2012, 06:41 AM   #24
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alexandria , Kentucky
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You have quite a project ahead of you but it should be a lot of fun.

If your going to change the interior I would study some of the old Airstream floor plans for some ideas on where the bathroom should be located and placement of the 3 tanks.
On my 94 - 30' trailer the fresh water is between the axles, black tank is just behind axles, and the gray tank was behind the black tank. I had an 89 - 29' trailer where the black and gray tank were just the opposite.
Definitely use the BAL jacks.
When you start replacing the floor you will need to take the lower belt line loose and aluminum panel below that. This is also a good time to take care of rust on the frame and put in new insulation. There is a good chance some out riggers may need to be replaced. How are your welding skills?
Since your in Muncie, Indiana I would do some research on the RV salvage yards and other places near Elkhart that may have some new appliances. You can probably get these at a decent price in that area. At this point it probably not worth the trouble or expense to rehab the old ones unless your trying to remain original. Been there, done that.
When your building the cabinets, think along the lines of lightweight yet sturdy. When you get finished inside the trailer I would take it somewhere and have it weighed. Your going to need new axles and you may need to upgrade the weight rating of the axles. Airstream seemed to use about a combined axle rating of about 90% of the GVW figuring about 10% as tongue weight. Leave enough weight rating for at least 1500 lbs of camping gear, water, propane etc.... over and above the dry weight of the trailer. My guess is that you will probably be in the neighborhood of 3600 lb axles, could be a little higher when your finished..
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:20 AM   #25
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1976 Argosy 28
Alamo Heights , Texas
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Regarding the refrigerator specifically: You say it doesn't "fire up" on electrical power. Have you determined whether or not the electric heating element is getting hot? If that heating element is working but the refrigerator isn't cooling, your best option is likely a replacement fridge. If you have electric power to the fridge but that heating element isn't heating, it's POSSIBLE that a relatively cheap fix will get you going.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:40 PM   #26
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Crispyboy and DKB_SATX,

Thanks for the response and the feedback. Yeah, lots and lots to do. I'm about a third done stripping back all the interior and hope to finish that out here in the coming 2 days. Found someone who is interested in the old bathroom so that should help us both out.

I will be replacing my outriggers, totally rusted out, and was looking at the BAL jacks and had one question. I've found the telescoping BAL jacks that are like the originals, individuals, but also found some BAL jacks that come as a pair mounted on one long "frame". So they come as a set of 2 and I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with these. Here is a link:

BAL Telescopic Stabilizing Jack, 24" Leg - BAL 24830 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

vs. the singles:
4 Long Shank Stabilizing BAL Jack 400093 [400093] - $297.20 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!

In regard to the placement of the remodeled bath, i've received differing opinions ( shocker i know). I would kind of like to move the bath midships, but realize that this would necessitate moving some tanks which I'm not sure I even want to mess with. I'm a 6'3" dude, and the corner shower location is a little more than inconvenient for me. I just don't fit into that corner standing up. There are some things I could do to make it work in the rear configuration, but wonder if anyone could speak to the foolishness of attempting to move that baby to the middle and either doing a split bath option or simply one bathroom roughly over the axles.

Sounds like I've got some searching to do as it relates to my fridge options. Will do. I'll get it pulled out here in the next couple days and see what I can / can't get it to do.

New axles for sure, but I'm waiting till I get a little closer to the end so that I don't have new axles sitting in my driveway for a year before I'm ready to roll.

I've got some good cabinet ideas and am excited to build and engineer those guys, should be fun. It'll be good to look around the forums and see what I can see.

Thanks for all the input, I hope to post several other questions tonight along the lines of some electrical questions and then also some plumbing/fresh water tank questions.

Appreciate the feedback,
mark
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:57 PM   #27
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The special thing about the long-shank BAL stabilizers for Airstreams is that the end of the rod is accessible without crawling under the trailer. It's easy to put a drill motor on it and crank down the stabilizers.

Re: moving to a mid bath: Remember that the shower will still be at the side, so the ceiling will still encroach on headroom somewhat. Putting in all that effort and finding out that the gain was negligible might be frustrating. See if you can find a narrowbody trailer with a mid bath to see if the shower headroom is improved enough to be worth it for you. Don't compare to a widebody mid-bath, because the widebodies have a different radius on that upper curve.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:48 PM   #28
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Yeah I've done some "standing around" and I think it's the back and side getting me at the back versus just the side curve. You're right, lots to weigh as to if it's worth it or not. Probably not in the long run. But I'm also dealing with thinking about how we'll actually use the trailer with our kids while we're out... Lots to consider.
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